Bought truck, guy said new clutch, went wheeling a few times, and the clutch was maladjusted and i ended up burnin it...twice. Now, when im driving, if I give the car any more than 1/3 gas pedal my engine revs up 1500 rpm from where it is w/ no power to the wheels, and then drops back down to where it was at and
the wheels seem to catch. Is this a slipping clutch?

 

Is the dust cover on the trans? If so pull the trans inspect the clutch, clean the disc if needed. Make sure the tolerances on the flywheel are right. New clutch doesn't always mean the person who put the clutch in resurfaced a flywheel in need.

 

And you've done what, besides adjusting the clutch pedal, since you "ended up burnin it...twice"? Just hope and pray that the clutch disc isn't ruined?

Just because the guy said it was new don't mean it is. Did he show you a receipt for it? Is it OEM(makes a BIG difference). Are you sure he didn't say "it needs a new clutch", not "it's got a new clutch"? And even if it is new, what makes you think you can "burn it...twice" without damaging something?

Inspection is DEFINITELY called for.

 

I was thinking the same thing but figured I'd try to help instead of gauging the conversation he had with the guy. Next time I see something like this I swear im going full tilt sarcastic =P

 

Yea thanks guys I know I'm burnin my ride by burnin my clutch. sticky situation and stock gears called for some unforseen clutch riding during the last trip out. I'm planning an inspection this weekend. Good news is it still drives

 

is the engine covered with oil? A contaminated clutch surface can slip. Since it is a 5vz swap, I wonder what setup he's running. Is it all 5vz clutch flywheel with with 3.0 throw out? or did he maybe throw a 3.0 disk on a 3.4 flywheel/ pressure plate. What is the gear ratio in the diffs? 4.10's, 33's is about the max you would want to push with an "oem" clutch.

 

Yea I have 33s, from what I understand, everything in the truck is still stock except the engine.

 

Engines not covered with oil, doesn't leak doesn't burn, only downfall is an exhaust leak where he booger welded the downpipe to the ds manifold

 

I thought the 3.4 swap could use either clutch setup (3.0 or 3.4).

I agree with Vital, didn't even occur to me to think that since it was a swap the flywheel could just be greased all to hell (normally this will make a foul smell you will notice though).

Either way, you need to inspect. There is no way for anyone to give you the right answer without more information.

 

Got it. Thanks guys

 

where are you located?? Had a buddy at nix tell me a horror story of a 3.4 swaped truck that came in asking for a factory 3.4 crossover pipe as his "custom" pipe was welded to the driver side manifold.

And you can use either setup. However, the pressure plate fly wheel and clutch disk need to all match as in all 3.0 or all 3.4. and the starter needs to match the flywheel.

 

:sigh: yea, that was me. I went up there lookin to fix it before I knew you had to do all custom weldwork to make it fit. I'm takin some fab classes this summer up in everett so I can sas my truck and eventually fix the leak. I'm pretty new to yotas and wheelin so I'm just spendin a lot of time researchin...but I haven't found any threads with this problem on here so far.

After years of driving and repping vws and europeens, i can't remember why I ever thought those things were fun to drive ;-)

 

They make loud noises so you think you're cool.

Grab a crossover and send it to toyonlyswaps. Its not too pricy and it will be right.