Newb question here...

I recently seafoamed through a vacuum line and while doing so noticed an exhaust leak coming from where the header meets the exhaust pipe.

My question is is this the part I need to fix that? or do I need something else?

Thanks!!

 

unless the flange itself is bent ir warped, id say yes, thats what you need.

 

and make sure to buy new nuts. they are not meant to be reused

 

Thanks for the replies! I may as well be prepared for new bolts too. 21 years of rust...

 

Make friends with PB blaster. And make sure you get the correct size exhaust rings. Those two are the same, but the one that meets with the cat is about half an inch bigger.

 

i had a leak in the same spot. on mine, the "Y" section of the down pipe was cracked on the back side and couldn't be seen w/o taking it off - your could be cracked too. i just mig welded it closed. And yes, those donut gaskets can come up with 2 different versions if you go to auto parts store - I ended up having to do a boomerang parts trip with the almost disintegrated originals to get the correct size. i had to buy new studs and nuts because the nuts were siezed to the studs.

 

Thanks for the tips, guys. Saw same thing when I Sea Foamed.
So the gasket is really round as pictured and does not match shape of flange?
Is it safe to assume that moving pipe carefully and as little as possible NOT affect seal on catalytic converter?
Not covered in FSM...
No adhesive needed?
It would be a good idea to have a rope or something cradle it in place so it doesn't move too much when screws are loosened, right?

 

no sealant needed.
the gasket is round
don't worry about the cat converter seal....it's not gonna happen.
3 new nuts because they are meant as a 1-time use item. PB Blaster the hell out of them...studs will likely be fine...

if you guys search through "THREAD B" in my sig, I have a picture of the contraption I made to get to those nuts....basically alot of extensions.

 

yes, the gasket is round and you'll need two of them. if you look close, you'll see that the "Y" section is actually 2 individual pipes where the connect at the top, not a big oval like it looks from the outside. and yes, definitely have a couple feet of extensions to get those nuts off, what a PITA that would be if you don't have them on hand. i think i got away with not unbolting the lower flange of the downpipe, but ended up having to take it off when I saw the crack.

 

Thanks a lot, guys!

 

Could you give me a run down on how this turned out for you? I'm having the same problem with my 1988 Toyota Pickup 22R where the Exhaust Headers meet the piping, at the Exhaust Flange, I'm missing a nut. I PB blasted the hell out of the two and they still won't budge. My instructors suggest torching them. If I can get them off I can easily use a Die set and clear up the threads on the posts so that my new nuts can fasten easily. There were two different flange gaskets that I found at the Auto Zone website. Here. I'm looking at the two Duralast ones that seem to have different diameter measurements, am I meant to buy down gaskets? I'm baffeled at this part I don't want to disconnect my piping and have the wrong size. Also what real harm can come from this if I don't get it fixed soon?

 

from my experience, the leak caused my mpg's to massively take a dump from about 18 to about 14 (my theory on that, which makes sense to me is the O2 sensor is not sensing enough and tells it that it needs more gas). besides that, it was annoying having the sputtering noise.

 

The annoying sputtering noise making it sound like a go-kart or like a misfire?

 

go-kart

 

Run to the dealership its 20 dollars for the gaskets and studs and nuts I did it in about 25 min the truck is so much quieter and smoother isn't all raspy anymore or else oreillys has the studs and nuts for about 7 bucks but its only a 2 pack ,