Well I finally found a truck! I am in New mexico and everything is over priced. Plus there is a guy in Santa Fe buy all the cheep ones and parting them out. So I looked in utah. I have a buddy there and we scored this!


So now I need to fly to utah get it and drive home.
TO do list:
Get it! ha

Rebuild front hubs or repack, front right need pliers to lock.
Exhaust manafold leaks, get new oem gasket
Need to adjust clutch petal
Rear diff, third member leak
Full tune up using oem cap and rotor, filter
E3 plugs, 5w40 T6 rottela full syn oil,
The sea foam treatment!

That is what I know about once I get there will find other stuff I am sure.
Its got 170K on the ticker
Not bad for 1300.

Plans:
E-fan
33X12.50 goodyear duratracks or 33X10.50 KM2s
T-bar crank 1in
new shocks procomp 3000s
Some type of winch bumper , Trail gear?
winch
1in mc , vented FJ 60 rotors
new muffler, glasspack??
K&n air filter, possible intake batt swap



Any suggestions or comments welcome!

 

More pics

 

Looks like you got a great deal! Good luck!
The hub being difficult to turn is most likely caused by a bad o-ring aroung the dial, I've been there, WabFab sells them for a couple bucks.

 

Awsome thanks!!!!!

 

I am looking for a place to get toyota parts online, anyone have a proven site??
Thanks

 

Going to lift it?

you may want to think about a SAS swap if not then 3 inch body lift.

looks good, have fun with it.

 

No not really! I plan on a small t-bar crank and some shackles or the zuk mod for the back. Then I will stuff in the 33s. I am sure that i will have to do some finder trim and spacers or different rims with more back space.

 

Looks like a solid foundation to an awesome truck!

Your going to need more than 1" of t-bar crank if you want to fit the 33s without trimming. Also, don't do a torsion bar crank. Get a set of ball joint spacers (also sold by WabFab). A torsion bar crank makes the suspension stiff and uncomfortable, depending on how much you crank them.

 

At first i was fully prepared to cut the finders and use the BFH for the pinch weld and whatnot. However this truck has no rust on the body panels, at least that I have found. So I really cant cut them up i would feel to bad about it.
I guess i will look at the 31X10.50s

 

Well I have been busy! I flew to utah on thursday, we did a bunch of small stuff inside and out. Went to the junk yard got some door pieces, a glass pack and some interior stuff.

So far I have put in the used weather striping, new door locks from napa, random plastic stuff. Replaced exhaust manfold gasket. Now I need to redo the hubs, reseal the rear diff, change all fluids, fix my cold start issue.
Yea getting there!

 

Ok, Well it has been a long 4 days of work but I got a few things done.
Replaced the exhaust manafold gasket, pulled out three of the studs, one with the threads. Ended up stuffing a 7/16 grade 8 bolt in the hole, works!
rebuild the front hubs, pain in the ass everything was very rusted.
Drained all fluids, front diff nasty, trans nasty milky, transfer case was fine, changed it anyway, rear diff nasty.
I broke 4 wheel studs on the rear wheels, replaced them.
I change the oil with 5w40 syn rotella t6 truck did not like it,. so switched to wally world 5w30 syn.
put on a junkyard glass pack
Drove it home 12hours and 650 miles as a shaked down drive.
Now i have a cold start issue, i cleaned the cold start injector thing with carb cleaner it was covered. That did not work, the we pulled it out to check for fuel and none came.
So i guess the relay is next????
Also she now leaks trans fluid after that drive not sure where.
She also kind of misses at low rpms, I put in ngk R plugs at .033, stock is .031 not that far off.
Will try new cap and rotor.

 

pics!!!


side view

trans


glasspack


bed

tail

 

Update time
Did a quick tune up cap, rotor, from autozone. Put in some bosch plug wires, which the truck really liked.
Still have the cold start issue, I started a thread which has some great info.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...issues-249859/

Still have not tested it yet!

I still have a slight low rpm studder, may be the fuel filter. I just wish the filter was not a royal pain in the ass.

I also need to drain the trans again I put in GL-5 in everything, need to switch to GL-4.
It is still cold out and I do not have a garage.

 

Installed a shift lever seat and ball from marlin crawler today! The install went pretty well, but now I need a new shift lever boot that protects the shift lever, its trashed.
I also need a new clutch fork boot also.
Then I was looking at the clutch master cyl, and there is fluid on the rod that connects to the clutch pedal, do you guys think I should replace the clutch master?
Thanks

 

Ok went out an bought a clutch master cyl and slave cly from auto zone. Then ordered a shift boot and clutch fork boot from marlin crawler. I am scared to do the clutch master, well bleeding it anyways. I also need to do a transfer case output seal also.
At least the weather is warmer!!!!

 

If I got it right, the Cold Start wont kick out any fuel until it is below a certain temperture so you may not have a problem there. One thing you can do it to clean the Cold Start Injector Timing Switch. It is in front of the thermostat under the Plenum. It is the one on the right. It will have an elecrtrical hook up. It is either a brown or green plug. Will need to use some plumbers tape on the threads when putting it back in.

Looks like you are going in the right direction. Looking good.

 

yea its the brown switch, I just have not gotten around to it. I think you usually lose a cup of coolant when you pull that switch out.

 

So the week did not start out to well for me! I went to warm up the truck shut the door and the door locked. WTF It just so happened that my spare key was in the truck also. So with the truck running and me late to work, I tried to pry the back window open. I was not able to and long story short broke the dam window.

Awsome!



So after some late nights on craigslist, I found the back window 15 miles away! Score! 40 bucks


Now I just have to figure how to out how to get this thing in. Anyone?

 

Sorry about the rear window. I always have a spare key just for those type of days. Nice on the CL replacement......Bill

 

The clutch bleeding isn't that hard, actually. There's a lot less fluid there than in the brake system, so it goes faster. When I did mine the last couple times, I used a syringe and a "shut off" that's part of my mt bike brake bleeding kit, so I was able to do it by myself all from under the rig. Lemme know if you want pictures of the setup, you could probably make one yourself pretty easy.

Edit: here's a pic of the whole brake bleeding kit, you can get a pretty good idea about the shut off setup
http://www.dotbike.com/p/601?utm_sou...m_campaign=FGL