UPDATE, SEE PAGE 2

I got matching F&R V6 4.56 diff from a 93 V6 auto with ADD. The rear swapped in fine. I decided to swap the tube instead of having all the ADD junk attached. I should have just swapped the whole thing, but took the ADD tube off and knicked it with my grinder because the bolt was previously stripped. Now I don't think I can go back. I searched and some people say the tubes swapp right over, but this is the problem I'm having.
V6 ADD diff:

V6 add tube:


My 4 cyl manual diff:


and the manual tube:


I am very confused now!

I know, the seal on the 4cyl diff was thrashed, thats whats missing in the pics, lol. Please any help. What do I do?
I took the cover off and saw the C clamp or clasp on the V6 diff. Is that what I have to take off?
And now looking at this picture makes me even more confused....http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/IFS_diff2.jpg

 

The "gear" in this pic needs to come out.

 

^x2. This stub shaft or whatever you wanna call it has to come out. Then the two housings will basically look the same. Just check to make sure your bolts will work. I tried swapping tubes like you but for whatever odd reason I had issues with the 4 bolts that secure it to the housing. For me, neither diff's bolts would work on the other shaft so I gave up instead of searching the stores that never have metric on hand; so I just modified the ADD function until I find time To do the swap (been 2 yrs, lol)

 

yeah I see what you mean with the bolts, they are just a tad to long. But how do I remove that gear? Remove the whole carrier?

 

just pry it ,it comes out like the manual one did.. you could open the cover and put a screwdriver to push it out

 

You can replace a V6 diff with 4 cylinder?? or are you talking about the tube only?

 

Yes you can. He's swapping the tube because the non-ADD tube has a solid axle driveshaft insid vs the 2-piece one inside the ADD tube - thus making it stronger.

Ah, see...I knew I wasn't the only one who's bolts wouldn't work for a quick fix. If you have ACE Hardware near you they seem to have the best metric hardware selection on the shelf and may have what you need. Otherwise you're looking at having to go to Toyota or to a specialty hardware store/order them. Good luck.

 

hmmm, first I've seen the issue with the bolts being too long on both diffs.
Good to know when I finally get the rear 4.88 to match the front 4.88 ADD I have.

 

good adive guys. Spank you. Ill go hit the garage in a minute to see what I can do. I picked up some snap ring pliers because looking at the FSM thats what looks like is holding it in, or just pry it out? Working at napa, I think I can get ahold of the bolts I need. Not sure if I can get the grade 10.9 (metric Grade 8 equiv), but you think it'll matter much? I wrecked the external torx bolts, and the stock manual tube bolts are too long. I think I can get some about 5 mm shorter. I'll bust out the micrometer and thread checkers tomorrow at work!

Oh and BTW. Even the BOLTS holding the cv to the diff I couldn't get off.Even with PB blaster and impact gun. I took the whole thing out with the. What a pain.

 

Someone stop me if I am wrong. but a simple tug on a pair of prybars should pop that thing right out, just like the shaft on the manual hub trucks do.

If/when you get those bolts come back an let us know exactly what size. It'll save me some time digging around here as well.

 

nope, I just had a pry bar in there. not coming out, and im not a small guy. I think there is a c clip right at the end like here in this pic,

 

The actual tube itself came out fine as you can see. Its just that small gear and small intermidiate shaft that needs to pop out. Looking here I dont think I'd want to pry that out if there is a snap ring http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...le/24disas.pdf

Edit: on that link, scrolling down to PDF pg 3 or FSM pg SA-84. It says use special service tool so and so to remove intermediate shaft. Now I am confused because knowing that there is a c clip there, won't that do any damage forcing it out? On the spider gears(if thats what theyre called?)?

 

Two pry bars. One on each side and it will come out. If need be, get a buddy to help. But that is all it needs. Then go to Toyota and get a new seal for the case. It will be the same one that is on your old diff that the one piece axle haft tube ises to seal the diff. On the AD diff the seal is on the out side of the locking sleve unit, but on the one piece it is right at the diff.

 

http://www.gearinstalls.com/rickdiaz.htm

I rest my case.

 

Here...12th picture..i think its the 12th haha

http://www.gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm

Its a 4cyl diff but same process

 

damn guys. I must be the biggest sissy on this site.lol I couldnt get that sucker out. I was using a small and medium sized pry bar at the same time. I'll give it another shot tomorrow, if not I'm sure I can get a jaw gear puller real cheap at work, or the shop next door will do it for a 6 pack. I appreciate all the help though. I seems I shouldn't run into any more problems, never know though. And yes I'll try and remember to post up the exact size bolts I'll use on the tube!

On this link http://www.gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm the pic of him driving the hammer into the diff to separate the axle, I was thinking of trying that, It's not going to damage any thing? Whats that called, the pinion shaft?

 

It's should pop rite out. That's how I did mines. Use a bigger screw driver or a chisel

 

suscribed
doing the same. on my runner

 

Prying it out with two screw drivers didnt work, but driving a screw driver in there did FYI.

 

Here is another item I found when I did my ADD to non ADD swap. The axle cover where the oil fill plug is was different between the two covers. The non ADD cover has a lower fill plug level then the ADD cover. I think this is becouse on the ADD axle, the oil has to get to the ADD connector, with out ADD, it is at a lower level. I did swap the cover so that the level will be right.