I do not notice that...

 

Hmm interesting. I'll have to keep an eye out for that too.

 

Here is a pic I took. The cover on the right is the ADD one. note that the fill plug is a little higher.

 

Now that I think about, not so sure that little bit of level change is going to matter.
Remember, it's pretty much the same third with the same gear set in it.

 

No, wont matter. Just some info to pass along. The lower fill plug position helps the gear oil stay out of the long tube. Before I swapped covers, I filled the axle about 1/2 inch below the fill plug,

 

I like the extra oil. Keeps it lubricating.

 

now that we are mentioning it, I was able to get my diff outa MY 4runner, I could not get the front mount off, so I just undid the cover. But I want to swap the covers because the fill plug on mine that is stuck on is stripped real bad. and now that I know the covers have the fill plugs in different spots, I want the V6 cover on there. Any ideas?

Zuk shows pictures of him removing the crossmember with the cover. I would think it would be a pain in the ass to try and put that crossmember back on.

Ideas?

 

Unbolt the cover from the crossmember.
A big cheater bar will help.

 

for those that care. The shortest bolts I could find are a 12mm 1.25 pitch. 20mm thread length. That was the shortest we sold at napa, napa/ rockford part number 2802-752. I am going to use them in juntion with atleast one washer.

 

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The bolts from my non-add bolt right up

 

I hope this is better than starting up a new thread. but I got everything swapped and the diff in, but I put some oil in the front diff and its leaking....

I was very meticulous with the silicone. Not too much, just a nice medium sized bead allround and under the bolt holes. I hand tightened everything, let it sit over night, then tightened em down. I used black silicone. What else can I do?

Please tell me I don't have to take the front diff out again! Is there an easier way? Can I take the cover off with the crossmember and re seal it that way?

Thanks, also does any one know the OEM part numbers for the rear driveshaft bolts and nuts? I lost four of them. edit: Also, should I pick up a tune of the red silicone from toyota? That's what was on the diffs when I took them apart

 

Did u replace the seal

 

yes I did. and siliconed the drivers side tube also

 

where is it leaking from ?.. and you did add the new seal on the passenger side .. the non ADD seal

 

no new seal on the pass side. I never took that out. It is leaking from the cover. What im mostly wondering is that I hope fully dont need to take the diff out again. that was THE hardest thing of this project. me and my brother took 4 hours to get that sucker in! Is there an easier way to reseal the front diff? I saw ZUK take the cover off with the cross member, but I think that might shift the frame and it might be a pain to get that crossmember back in. Has any body ever fixed a leaking front diff with out removing the whole thing. any good write ups? thanks guys. Im super bummed because all i had to do was bleed the brakes and connect the rear d shaft and I'll be on the road again!

Edit: and sorry i didnt mention before that it was leaking from the cover. lol

 

try tightening the bolts up some more before you remove it .

 

x2 see if tightening helps. otherwise, you gotta take the cover off and re-do your seal. perhaps you didn't clean the surface very well and it didn't stick, or you didn't use enough. i use the Ultra Gray RTV on my diffs.

you CAN take the cover off w/o the diff, but i'm sure it will be challenging unless you remove the crossmember. i've taken mine off, but I have an IFS brace to keep it together on the rear of the a-arms. i don't think you need to worry about your a-arms spreading apart though since you're not moving the truck - if you are worried, perhaps jack up the frame slightly to take some load off the a-arms. i wouldn't go tires off the ground, then there's a chance the arms will be too tight to get the crossmember back in (but most likely not).

4hrs to get the front diff in - that's crazy talk. i've done it 3x now (solo) and it takes less than 30 min. removing the CV studs definitely helps.

 

Anyone know the size of those Torx bolts holding the ADD axle tube onto the diff? I bought a ratcheting wrench and it breaks free smashing my fingers.......

I would assume they are metric sizes?

 

um...i'm fairly certain torx bolts only come in one standard sizing - they don't have SAE/Metric versions.

I got my torx and external torx driver sets from Harbor Freight specifically for these bolts and never had a problem removing or re-installing them. Sounds like you need a better ratchet if the gear inside's letting go.