so the othe day i decided to change my sparkplugs because my truck runs rough on start up fpr about iit will miss then run regularly.
i have a 1992 4runner 3.slow with 208,000 on it.
so while puling the plugs on the driver side, plugs 2&4 came out fine the plugs looked fine no corroding at all. (the plugs were changedabout a year ago when i bought the truck.) while taking off the wire boots i had 2 rip completely off
called up the local part store and sent my mom to pick up new wires.
moving on to the #6 cylinder it would not budge!
in a lapse of my greater judgement i took a 1/2 inch breaker bar to it and the threads got trashed. pulled the plug and the end was badly corroded compared to the other two the last 3 threads have aluminum on there really good it appears that it was melted on?
i got through and worked on the other side and #1 sparkplug is not budging i left it as it was, 3&5 came off fine no problems. so i getting the 14X1.25 tap tomorrow and i thinkk im gonna try and re tap that hole. my friends dad told me he fixed that before and to do it he pulled the head and did a helicoil in there. so thats my next step if the tap doesnt work. i guess. while taking the top end off is there enything else i should change besides the HG?

 

#6 does not sound normal. Do a compression check while you have the plugs out. PB Blaster the #1 spark plug & let it set for a couple of hours & try again. It's going to have to come out eventually....

 

i did the same thing but it was a long time ago i think i just retaped it but for some reason i remember helicoiling it but i would say try the tap then see if it works and if not u will have to heil coil it!

 

Yes, timing belt kit including the top pulley, and the side tensioner pulley and the actual tensioner that presses on it (unless yours is spring loaded I think thru 92 they are - which would require a different water pump with the spring catch on it) , water pump, thermostat, engine belts, have injectors cleaned and tested, clean out the upper plenum to remove excessive carbon buildup especially around the EGR connection to the plenum ( I had mine boiled at the radiator shop for $30 as it was full of carbon). NGK spark plugs and wires. Coolant bypass hose at the rear top of the engine on the sensor pod, an upside down U shaped hose that always springs a leak at the wrong time. Get the fuel rail crush washers from the dealer. 8 for the rail crossovers, 2 for the pulsation damper, 2 for the cold start injector line at the plenum. You should probably go ahead and change your knock sensor and wire while you are there, or you will regret it shortly down the road when you start getting code '52' and your engine goes into "Limp mode".
And start spraying / soaking the exhaust manifold bolts with PBlaster now, as they are probably rusted on good.

 

[QUOTE=808 4 runner;51827179]so i getting the 14X1.25 tap tomorrow /QUOTE]

Don't use a tap! It will just blow out down the road. Ask me how I know

Can you start one of the other old spark plugs? Even just a few threads? If yes then go and get a thread CHASER. It should just be able to restore the old threads in the head. If you cut new ones with a tap they will be to weak.

If that doesn't work then it sounds like you need a new head. I've had helicoils and time serts blow out(Currently putting a new head on my 22RE because the timesert blew apart)
Good luck. Hope I helped

 

Picked up a thread chaser today, gonna try that with some grease so I don't have alot of shavings in my block, but if that doesn't fix it, I'm pulling the heads.

 

Chased the threads out today, and after doing that I left the plug out, hooked up my batt and turned it over, it turned over once and stopped the battery was weak, so I ran to the back & hooked up my second battery, now when I crank it the starter just clicks?
It won't turn over,
Does anyone know anything that could cause this?

 

The bendix may be stuck out... put her in gear and give it a shove to rock the truck... you may her a click as the bendix drops back in... it should start normally if that was the issue...

 

i havent read what any1 else said but what you say it sounds like #6 wasnt replaced they couldnt get it out so they letf it and i would helicoil but let a pro do it. can cause serious damage.

 

ok so now your problem is wont start take and turn the engine over by hand. you may have to man up on it but if you cant you dropped something down into the head, so then pull the head and check the damage.

 

Your second battery is dead OR your second battery isn't wired to start the truck OR your starter went bad OR a combination of these. Or something isn't hooked up OR something is hooked up incorrectly. Does that help?

In a totally unrelated event, I broke a valve cover bolt today... right on the driver's side rear corner above #6.

 

Tried again today & nothing it won't turn over, tried jumping it and it has more than enough in the battery but all the starter does is click once and nothing! Any other suggestions?

 

talk about a stroke of bad luck! i would pull the head. im sorry.

when i pulled an exhaust man. stud, my friend told me to timesert it. he says he uses them on plugs for bikes and loves them. i did a helicoil kit from napa and it holds torque like a champ.

seeing as to how your repair will be subject to DIRECT air pressure, i would say timesert. they have better resistance to leaks by design. best option short of, imo,. . . . .

welding. however, i weld for a living, ferrous and non-ferrous, and typically shy away from cast, aluminum, critical, motor parts. due to factors potentialy including, alloy and heat treatment identification, the amount of crud embedded in the aluminum, and warpage.

find your local machine/welding shop with the oldest man running it. ask him what he thinks, if he says do an insert, do it yourself. if he says he can weld it, ask about the factors i listed above. seriously. if he gives strait, logical answers, and a fair price, do it. if he says he will have to re-deck it after welding and cutting the new hole, ask what it will do to your compression ratio. GOOD LUCK!

whats a bendix?

sorry 'bout the essay

 

tap on the starter a couple times and retry the boost.

 

That's another way to get the bendix to drop back in place if that's the problem... this way is better if you have an auto trans. [my way works better with manny trannys and keeps you clean when your dressed for work/night out]. lol

 

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-640...2870253&sr=1-2

A little late I know, but this tool might make your life a little easier... I did the same thing to one of my SP threads and thought someone should make this tool, but couldn't find one. After I pulled my heads and heli-coiled my threads (which worked well for me btw) I found a similar tool to this, but was 140$ or something ridiculous. Apparently you can find them cheap now.

It expands after being inserted through the spark plug hole to chase the threads from the mint bottom threads back up through the damaged top threads. I've never tried it, but i cant see why it wouldn't work. good luck.