Hello, I'm new here, new to toyotas, need some advice. I have a 84 4x4 5sp with a 22r, the park brake levers on the brake drums wont budge. The cables are loose and seem to work when you pull the handle, neither of the levers at the wheels will move at all. Thanks for any help.

 

Service your rear brakes.

www.ncttora.com/fsm

:wabbit2:

 

back off the adjusters so you can pull the drum off and then soak the pivot point in penetrating lube.

 

It might also be the cable that hooks to the handle,the one on my 82 was stuck solid.

 

Thanks I'll give it a try, I have soaked them from the outside a few times then pecked them with a hammer, there seems to be quite a bit of corrosion under the little rubber boots.

 

Wabbits wight, service the brakes. Be sure to take pictures of the brakes before you service them to have references to look back on. Brake dust cakes on everything in the drum and renders it useless. A few wire brushes and some brake cleaner will help you out. Some lube for the pivot points.

 

I will, so they work about like any other drum brakes? I've done a ton of drum brakes on different vehicles. Come to think of it they may be dragging a bit, I'm only getting about 12 mpg right now. I did the front wheel bearings and all the brakes looked new up front, just haven't been into the rear yet.

 

some variation from what you have but should be helpful anyway


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...RKRHZ7EfYmSoqg

 

Bell cranks are seized in the bell crank brackets.

This is a common problem Because the bell cranks and pins are steel the brackets are aluminum

I have had them so bad no amount of oxy-fuel torch heat will break them loose . Or soaking with Kroil

I now just get new brackets new pins and clean up the bell crank. Never seize real good . Lots of dealers stock these parts and so do I.

The best way i have found is to cut the bracket off with a zip disc in pieces then just knock what is left of the pin out of the bell crank.

The only way up north to avoid this happening is to use your Ebrake.

Since you are pulling the drum off it doesn`t hurt to service the internal E-brake linkage as well. Maybe lining and drums as well

 

Thanks wyoming9, that sounds like exactly what I have, what kind of money are the new pieces? You say you stock them, are you a dealer? I would really like the e brake to work, right now I'm hauling a chock rock around with me and I figure 1 day the truck is gonna take off before I get it jammed under my tire

 

I had this similar problem, after checking the cables from the handle back to the bell cranks, i took the bell cranks out when i was servicing my rear brakes. It took about 2-3 hours to get them freed up with heat and penetraiting oil and a BFH. but a year later and theyre still working well. You could try just freeing them up before you buy new.

 

yeah i will try freeing them up for sure, sometimes when i get the bfh out i end up buying new parts anyhow.

 

Haha, I agree with ya on that one. It happens to me most of the time also.

 

I am a shop that restores rebuilds these Toyota Pick ups as a Hobby sure not for profit .

As for the cost I would have to check the last bill when I bought them The last ones I got were for a 2000 Tacoma and list was $39.71 and the pin and c-clip were @ $5.00 That is for one side. I have found that beating with a hammer bends the bell crank sometimes so bad it can`t be straightened.

Most times the Toyota`s I get the E-Brakes have been very neglected.

By all means try and free them up . I wish you the best of luck I just don`t have the time to screw with them for 2 or 3 hours. In that time I can have all the rear brakes done with all new parts..

I wish you luck

 

thanks for all the help yall, it is the cranks siezed up, i have the bed off getting ready for a new flatbed so i got pretty good access to everything now, i'll see what i can do with pb blaster and the bfh, again thanks for the advice