Hi, I Have a 91 Truck with the 22RE. I pulled the motor to rebuild the bottom & top end . On the rebuild I purchased LC Clutch, Headers, Intake Kit, EGR block plate kit and crossover block plate. I installed the plates (2) head & intake. Questions I have is what do I do with the FPR vacuum hose that went into the EGR set up that is now removed? And Can I eliminate the mess of hoses and stuff mounted on the valve cover? Also no Emission Check here in Hawaii.
Thanks

 

not sure about the vacuum lines, sorry. Keep in mind though that with the EGR blocked off you may experience some hot engine conditions. I see that emissions don't matter, lucky you! Maybe it won't matter due to the year of vehicle but pretty sure its gonna throw a code, run hot, and maybe some other issues? Good luck bro, sorry I didn't have positive answers for ya, just offering what I know, also, I have the header on my 22RE and I love it! Next purchase is gonna be the intake infact, lem'me know how it goes

 

Thanks, for the response. Anybody else with recommendations?

 

Bump!!

 

As far as i know, the FPR vacuum hose shouldn't have been connected to the EGR valve. That doesnt make any sense. Run the FPR vacuum hose to any vacuum source you want. I deleted the power steering vacuum hoses, egr system (same kit as you), and now have one (1!) vacuum hose. Blocked off the remaining vacuum nipples and din't notice any difference at all, and it looks MUCH cleaner. Nothing connected to valve cover, removal now takes 30 seconds. Running that hose straight to vacuum works fine. 4crawler has a writeup on it somewhere.

 

Thanks for the response. There are 2 ports coming off the fpr. I believe one of them hooked up to that ?? That is mounted under the throttle body that has a hose connected to that round ball thing. With the delete kit I removed that assy also. And all those hoses and valve things on the valve cover just leave all the electrical connectors disconnected?
Thanks

 

I have had my egr blocked for 2 years and have had no problems on a 22rec.I am running at the same temp as before.

 

Good to hear, I wonder if anyone has ever had an issue with their 22re after blocking off the EGR (as a direct result to blocking off the EGR). I'm having a performance 22RE long block installed and also got the block plates from LCEngineering, but if it'll cause issues down the road I'll keep the EGR (I have no emissions as well). I'm sure if it was likely to cause issues than LCEngineering would NOT sell these kits on their site. I would like to get better info on this.

 

If you don't have emissions, then you can remove all the EGR stuff and the related vacuum hoses. If you have the EGR temp sensor you have to put a resistor in the plug or something like that, that info is on LCE.

You can also get rid of the AS (Air Suction System) as well. This includes the pipes running from just above the headers, to a valve, then to the resonator, then to the air box. There is also a AS VSV located on top of the valve cover, you can remove this and the related vacuum hoes and just leave the plug unconnected. LCE sells block off plates for this.

There is also a FPR VSV located on top of the valve cover, you can move this and just connect the vacuum hose from the back of the intake directly to the Fuel Pressure Read Valve. By doing this, your fuel pressure wont drop at idle.

FYI, you will see zero performance gains from this. You might actually is negative results from this. I would only suggest do this, if you want to "clean up" the engine bay and/or simplify the motor.

ALSO, my notes are at home and this is just off the top of my head so if anything isn't 100% actuate I apologize.

I have diagrams for all the above and for PCV lines, brake booster vacuum hose or the PSP idle up hoses. Let me know if you need any of it.

Edit. This might help http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...8&page=2&pp=25

 

Thanks for the responses. Have a few questions. On the FPR there are 2 ports. 1 port on top that hooks up to a vacuum port on the rear of the intake. Then where does the other port hook up I believe It organally went the the resonator assy. Also if I want the A/C high idle. I will keep only that valve on the valve cover hooked up. Everything else can be disconnected.

 

That port is the fuel return... you're going to want to keep that one. lol

If you're keeping your AC, than keep the AC high idle/idle up.

Also, keep your cold start injector hooked up as well and the brake booster vacuum line.

Whatever vacuum lines you remove, plug the ports off with the little caps found in the link I attached.

 

Thanks, Figured it out. I got this truck with the engine half torn apart. Did all the engine rebuild myself but all the vacuum and other bolt on exterior stuff didn't have a clue. Thanks for the help. Hope she starts its been a year long project.

 

Should I run the FPR vacuum line to the three port tap or to the top of the throttle body? The three port would be a much shorter run. Does it matter?
Thanks

 

the 3 port on the rear is where you should run the FPR, that's where mine is run.. I have the other 2 ports blocked off. With the front throttle body ports I've got all those blocked off as well.

I haven't tried blocking off the vacuum for the power steering - might have to try that.. I hate the 2 large lines over my engine

 

Thanks, 3 port it is. Yep, plugged the power steering idle up on mine. Want to make my valve cover as clean as possible. Only thing I will leave is the pcv valve to intake line and the lc spark plug wire mounts.

 

I actually got creative and made my own egr block off plates, I used some aluminum which is about 1/16 of an inch. After I cut it out I realized I could just use it as a closed gasket to hide the fact that it was blocked off. It is technically illegal to do where I live due to smog regulations. But anyway the aluminum only cost me thirty cents for a sheet of 12x12. My truck ran much better after the installation. Just a very cheap and easy mod I thought I would share. The egr is still visually "installed"