I just basically rebuilt my 95 3vze 4x4 pickup. When cranking the rpms go to around 1000 and then it cuts off within 2 seconds. I'm quite confident the cam timing is set correct, and it is the ignition timing giving me the problem. I've taken the distributor out and tried aligning the timing mark on the driven gear with the installation mark on the cam cap that holds the distributor. It seems I'm having trouble getting it in without it turning a tooth. The only other thing I could think is that the pistons weren't installed in the same exact order they were removed. I was having trouble distinguishing where they were before because 2 out of 3 pistons on the left side were labled B while only one was labled A. I'm sure they're positioned correctly though.

 

Double check that the distributor isn't installed with the cams 180 out. Use the FSM procedure for installing the distributor and it will be close enough to start and run. The rotor will rotate some as the gears engage the camshaft so it needs to be started as shown in the FSM and it will rotate to the correct position.

 

Did you forget to reconnect the AFM?

What you did is considered a cardinal sin in the world of engine building. ALWAYS physically matchmark engine components immediately upon, or before, removal.

Matchmark: a mark made on mating components of an engine, machine, etc., to ensure that the components are assembled in the correct relative positions, to stamp (an object) with matchmarks



If you don't have a set of # punches, use a center punch and make dots for each number.

 

And, uh, what is the timing set at? I assume you are using a timing light (otherwise, you are only guessing and wasting your time), and you could use that while cranking the engine (it doesn't have to start). If you are off one tooth on the distributor gear (an easy mistake to make) your timing will be off by "about" 27 degrees. If you're only off 10 degrees, the gear is okay, and you've got a different problem.

Sure sounds like an AFM (air flow meter)- type problem to me. The fuel pump is powered when you crank the starter, but when you let go of the key the fuel pump gets its power from a switch in the afm assembly. You DID connect the air intake all the way back through the air filter, didn't you? A quick and dirty way to test this is to jumper the FP+ terminal to 12v; the fuel pump will run all the time. If the engine starts and runs then, you've identified the problem. (no, don't drive around with the jumper in. If you get in an accident that breaks a fuel line you want that pump to shut off pronto!)

Good luck!

 

no actually I havent connected the air intake back to the upper intake. I swore I have cranked it before without it hooked up but it has been sitting nearly a 7 months so its not holding fuel possibly.

 

So we were right! It IS the AFM.

You can't run the engine with the intake hose disconnected. That bypasses the AFM and the idle mixture control valve, and you can't do that. Rookie mistake....

But look at it this way, when you reconnect it it's going to run great!

 

You were right. It was the AFM. Thanks for the help.