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220v Wiring For My Welder

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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 02:52 PM
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220v Wiring For My Welder

So i bought a millermatic mig machine yesterday. The welder has a 6-50p plug on it and my house has a 10-30r receptacle so I want to make an extension cord for it that will have a 6-50r on one end and 10-30p on the other end. I need help figuring out where to connect the wires. I've been trying to read up on it for hours and its giving me a headache. Maybe someone can shed some light.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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I work repairing welders, the millermatics happen to be my specialty. I'm not following what you're saying, any better explanation?
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:10 PM
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here you go swimmerboy.
http://www.frentzandsons.com/Hardwar...nfiguratio.htm
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Swimmerboy2112
I work repairing welders, the millermatics happen to be my specialty. I'm not following what you're saying, any better explanation?
Alright. Basically i just need to make a cord that will adapt the plug on my welder to the receptacle in the wall at my house
Not so much welder tech as electrician tech.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RMA
Thank you, plugs are not my specialty but i will give this a try, i do know basic electricity.

*Note if your machine blows up do not send me the bill although I will be happy to replace your blown voltage regulator haha*

Your power cable has 3 wires in it, a ground (green) a common (white) and a power (black). On the 10-30P there are 3 legs, I have marked them G (ground) C (common) and P (power). The 6-50P also has 3 legs, they too are marked.

Hope this helps

10-30P


6-50P
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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Thats exactly what i've been looking for. Much appreciated.

I deduced that thats how it went but i know nothing about a/c power so i didnt want to take a gamble and f something up.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:33 PM
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A/C power is much much easier to work with, no worrying about polarity!
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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Which Miller Millermatic did you get btw? 130? 135? 210? 211? etc. etc.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:46 PM
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Its an older 175. I got it off some old fellow for $700 with a bottle, about 15 lbs of wire, 30 con. tips and a cart.

He said he bought it and used it for about 20 hrs and decided he liked his old stick welder better. (maybe because he had the polarity set up for gas but was running flux core lol)
In any case its basically a brand new welder. Not a damn scratch or sign of use. I'm pretty stoked.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by algranger
Its an older 175. I got it off some old fellow for $700 with a bottle, about 15 lbs of wire, 30 con. tips and a cart.

He said he bought it and used it for about 20 hrs and decided he liked his old stick welder better. (maybe because he had the polarity set up for gas but was running flux core lol)
In any case its basically a brand new welder. Not a damn scratch or sign of use. I'm pretty stoked.

That's awesome! The 175 is a great machine! I'm looking at getting a 130 or 135 the 175 is overkill for what i need.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:55 PM
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Oh nice. You must be doing body work huh?
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by algranger
Oh nice. You must be doing body work huh?
Body, and some frame, even light fabrication.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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Ah yea. I had a Lincoln weld pak 100 that i built my toyota with it has been a great machine. A few days ago, i got a job offer to weld a couple hundred feet of well casing and some other crap on a jobsite so i figured i had better get something that wouldn't be maxed out on that material.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by algranger
Ah yea. I had a Lincoln weld pak 100 that i built my toyota with it has been a great machine. A few days ago, i got a job offer to weld a couple hundred feet of well casing and some other crap on a jobsite so i figured i had better get something that wouldn't be maxed out on that material.
Good stuff man! I'm sure you'll be happy with the Miller.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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normally you would have to worry about polarity but since its 220v it doesnt matter, c and p are both power on those plug drawings. you do have to worry about being electricuted though. I have a miller challenger 170 and love it. need to get a new gun setup for it though but it still works for now.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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Yea i've been shocked by my buddy's ghetto stick welder. Not fun.
So c and p are interchangeable?
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 07:52 PM
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yes on a 220v plug thry are both power and the g is the ground.
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 07:38 AM
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Could also swap out the plug on the welder to match what you have. I have a couple of welders, a plasma cutter, air compressor and milling machine that all run on 220V and originally all had different plugs on them. Swapped them all to be the same style plug to make it easier to deal with. Plus I can now make use of pre-made extension cords for air conditioners if I need to temporarily move a welder closer to a project.

Just make sure to use a plug rated to handle the current load of the welder. My MM-175 is right around 20 amps max. as I recall.
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 12:05 AM
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Red face

Yes it is so much easier to decide what plug you are going to use in the shop and just have one style in the shop. It might not mean much now if you only 1 or 2 pieces of equipment in 5 or 10 years who knows.

The more connections you have from the breaker to the load the more chance you have to have a loose one.

Which means just that many more things to take apart when things don`t work.
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 01:17 PM
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Yea I think my Hobart has that NEMA 6-50 plug on it. I was shocked when I found out how much $$ they wanted for them when I made my 100' extension cord for it. Think they were around 40.00 each.
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