99' 3.4 auto in a 94' 3.0 Auto.

The first problem im having is with the alternator hitting a bolt on the power steering. Anyone else having this problem?..solutions?
As you can see there is no room for adjustment on the tensioner.



Next problem i am having is with the fuel lines, ive read a lot of swap threads already but still was a little confused. I dont know if it was already done by the previous owner of the motor or not but factory does the 3.4 coming with the fuel line on passenger or driver side? (I got it with the fuel line being connected to the passenger side (is that where it needs to be?) On the fuel line ends the 3.0 banjo end is larger than the 3.4 banjo end, is that going to need to be done at a line shop? In the second picture can someone tell me what the end is coming out of the driver side fuel rail?..is it a fuel return?

 

I want to say on my fuel lines I used the 3.4 banjos, found a splice and just spliced the soft line of the 3.4 to my 3.0...

On the alternator. I had the exact same issue. I can try to snap a picture tonight but basically I just cut the slotted adjuster off and sourced a shorter belt that didn't need the alt. to swing so far out. I ended up using a thru bolt also. To tighten my belt I put a prybar in there to force the alt. out and tighten it up at the same time. I'll try to snap some pics of the alt bracket and I'll look at what I did on the fuel line tonight while I'm taking a few other ones.

 

Oh, and who's kit are you running on the front? The square upper arms look pretty cool!

 

The thing being pointed at in the second pic is your fuel damper I think. Can't really tell on my phone.

 

your steering issue can be solver by putting the bomb proof motor mounts by trail-gear. you feel the engine a little bit more, basically when you start it you feel the starter, and when you kill it.

but, the engine feels stronger, it responds to the skinny pedal better.

 

I'm planning on doin solid motor mounts..I was just hoping there was something I can do while I don't have them yet, the 3.4 alternator would do the same thing I'm assuming?..I'm using the 3.0 alt.

 

I used the factory 3.4 fuel supply line, and didn't have any problems mating to the 3.0 hard line on the firewall. I also used the 3.4 alternator with the adjuster and didn't have issues like your's there. I did have to find a shorter belt so that the alt didn't rub on the steering shaft. The arrow in your final picture is pointing at the fuel pressure regulator. I think the top port is vaccuum

 

exactly what screamer said. put the 3.4 line back on but just rotate it so its pointing to the passenger side. Then just bolt it to the 3.0 hard line that is attached to the frame rail. And is that power steering box in the stock location? I have not seen that before. It usually hits on the steering shaft joint. Not the box itself... And I have done 3 of these so far.

 

Yes, its the fuel pressure regulator, needs to be hooked up to vaccuum. I used a 3.0 Alt with a shorter belt, no clearance issues. I used the fuel hose from the 3.4 motor, connected to the 3.0 fuel hose fitting on the lower pass. side fire wall, fits real good.

 

Just to chime in here, All the same as the last few guys.

I have also not seen or heard of the alternator hitting the box. That seems odd. Actually impossible in my truck at least. I did have issues with it hitting the rag joint, but an extension from a body lift and a cut to the shaft fixed that.

 

Looks like a 2wd V6 steering box, Try one off a 2wd 4cylinder that should solve your problem.

 

the return line i think is whats in the way on steering box.

i looked at the 4cylinder box and the return line is on the top of the box completely out of the way.

i got the fuel lines all taken care of just need to deal with this alternator issue, i guess ill have to switch out my 2wd v6 box for a 2wd 4 cylinder box?

 

Well.. the 4wd box is different I guess. I have no issues with mine and any of the swaps i've done. But they were all 4wd trucks.

 

damnnn..so i wonder if its just a straight swap over if i got a 4wd box?..mounting and everything.

 

I had the EXACT same thing... 2WD, V6. The bracket hit the huge banjo bolt on the side. I just trimmed the bracket shorter and got a shorter belt. If I remember right I'm using the 3.4 alternator but the 3.0 would've worked also. It was the bracket, not the alt. itself causing the issue. I tried taking pics last week but they turned out blurry as hell. I'll try to take a couple better ones tonight although the truck is on stands now again and is parked in a way that the front is difficult to get at. I'm swapping out fuel cells and making new mounts to hopefully clear the up travel on upper links.

Here's the two pics I tried to take the other night but you can see they pretty much suck! LOL

In this first picture you can see that the bracket is open ended and now looks more like a 2 pronged fork cause of where I cut it off at. My motor is mounted on poly leaf spring bushings with virtually no movement so as long as the mounts survive it's good...

 

mann it looks like yours adjust out way further than mine..even if I cut the bracket I think I maybe have less to a 1/4" to adjust out..the belt will be tight but it will be resting on that banjo bolt.

 

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, I extended the slot on the bracket now that I think about it!!!!!! I welded some plate to either the top side or the bottom (don't remember which), then I ground it smooth, stuck it in the mill at work and made the slot extend so I could suck the alt. in towards the engine more. I completely forgot that I had to do that till you just mentioned it. That was my trick!!! My apologies that I didn't remember that right off the bat...

Basically I added material where it made sense looking at the bracket so I could extend the adjustment slot and then did it...

I remember it took a few trips to napa to find the belt I need but luckily the guys at my local one are really cool about that kinda stuff and understand. So yeah, I made it so that I could suck the alt. in closer to the engine basically and then cut off the excess bracket where needed...

 

annnnnnothhherrr quickk question..
can someone let me know where this vacuum line goes to in the red circle where the arrow is pointing to it. thanks!

 

sure thing. That is the air line that goes from your IAC valve down to a 'T' that splits off to each side of the intake manifold. It is suppose to help with the fuel charge. It connects to some runners that run down through the injectors. So that line to a 'T' and then to two nipples on the back of the intake manifold. They will both be angled in a little. It's a bitch to see them with the motor in, so make sure you get that on before you drop the motor. Don't ask how I know hehe.

 

Incorrect. The line that is circled is a coolant line, the intake side I believe. The line you are thinking of is the line that the red arrow is directly on. The coolant return line is the one below that. Do not mix the lines up.

I thought the pic looked familiar, its my engine.