For those of you with experience with the 3.0 with the hydraulic tensioner: If part passes the "good" test is it necessary to press HT pin back before reinstall, or can I just tighten bolts alternately like you do when taking it out?

Also, because my belt has moved about 10 teeth on both cams, I need to comfirm the basics....
Setting back to 0TDC on crank and high noon on cams will do, assuming the dizzy is looking at #1 firing position? If not just 360 the drivers cam to set correct timing position? Thanks to you out there that have a moment or two to respond, it's been several years since I did a timing belt, and that was on a VW 4cyl. I've read the FSM, just looking for the real world experience. Thanks YT

 

If your tensioner was applying the correct tension, it's unlikely the belt would have moved on both cams. How did you determine the belt moved?

 

With the crank at 0TDC, the cams are both at 3 o'clock or so...there is plenty of oily gunk/rubber in there, and motor died while pushing it hard uphill 65-70. The motor will turn over, gas pressure, spark... everything points to a spun belt..... whatcha think?

 

Sounds like that is the case. Definately replace the tensioner while you are in there.

While I did not have a belt that skipped a tooth (or more), take a look at my observation at post 49:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/o...83/index2.html

The smeared rubber I experienced on the pulleys was from a faulty tensioner, I believe.

 

Also Ore, I am assuming it spun on the crank pulley, just because it makes more sense...that's where the grunt is and as likely to spin there as anywhere. Whatcha think?

 

Again, seems more likely there than on both cams.

 

Thanks RW... I will replace the tensioner just for POfM, just think because my TB zone was so gunked up and oily that the belt deteriorated enough after 40k to slip and grab on the crank, although the tension is suspect from my inspection...it's not tight like a drum. The PS pump is demanding my attention now and it will get a new crank seal. Can you confirm that the tensioner needs to be pressed and pinned to install the belt correctly? Perhaps the dealer part is ready to go with a pin to pull? Thanks again.

 

Bingo! The grenade pin is already installed on the new part.

 

RW, Thanks again for the time and patience, this truck is rather new to me and am learning the systems as they fail, knowing full well that the PS pump should have been serviced a year ago.....Relearning the concept of preventative maintenance...... a must in the salt/snowbelt. YT is a vital source for anyone with an old Runner and limited funding sources. Rather be windsurfing The Gorge........it's our Mecca!

 

Welcome! Haha, I've lived here 30 years and have never been windsurfing and my front window overlooks the river, go figure.

 

When I did my head gaskets, I just put it on and tightened the bolts evenly, worked out fine. I would say just do that if you werent getting a new one.

 

Was looking at your "Once again.." thread recently...Did you resolve your problem? Thanks for the info re: installing used tensioner. I may just, clean, throw a belt on there, and button it up, because I am getting nervous about the HG condition and will probably be back in there this summer again. 2nd motor has about 120k. Will try that install if I reuse it, it seems like it's functioning, clean under the bonnet, and passed the 10mm length and press hard on the floor FSM test. Good luck with your Toy, Tex.