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Are there any differential upgrades for my 4Runner?

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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 01:42 PM
  #1  
4RUNNER88's Avatar
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From: Stony Plain, Alberta, Canada
Are there any differential upgrades for my 4Runner?

Because of a lift and bigger tires I am re-gearing my 1988 4Runner, 3.0 V-6.
Thought I might upgrade the rearend if any available?
Posi?
Limited slip?
Any reccomendations?
Thanks.
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 04:17 PM
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From: Columbia, MO
go for a lock-rite, definitely
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Old Dec 17, 2003 | 03:41 PM
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From: torrance, CA.
Detroit locker!
For on/off locker get ARB or Retrofit a toyota Elec. locker.
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Old Dec 18, 2003 | 10:40 PM
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From: Santa Maria, CA
ARB!
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Old Dec 19, 2003 | 02:10 AM
  #5  
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From: N37 39* W122 3*
what kind of 'wheeling are you planning on doing?
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 04:15 PM
  #6  
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Donny, you're out of your element
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From: Marysville, WA
Originally posted by ldivinag
what kind of 'wheeling are you planning on doing?
You beat me to it! UIt all depends on what kind of driving you will be doing. Whatever you do, DON'T go with a lockrite. THey are cheap crappy lockers. YOu get what you pay for. If you wheel it hard and often, but want to drive it on the road too, go for the ARB. If you wheel it, and dont drive it, go spool or Detroit locker. Talk to the guys at Randys Ring and Pinion. Great customer service, and they'll really know what you need. Most likely, if you are not hardcore wheelin it, 4.88 gears will do fine.
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 04:56 PM
  #7  
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From: Columbia, MO
how do you define them as 'crappy'?
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 01:55 PM
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From: Mount Pleasant, SC
Originally posted by Napoleon047
how do you define them as 'crappy'?
I agree. Lockrites are fine for 99% of the wheelers out here. Hell, I probably have bigger tires than 99 precent of the people on this board and I only have 35s. My point is that with 33s, there is no question that a lockrite will hold up just fine. Not to mention you have no idea what kind of wheeling this guy is doing. Just writing them off as a crappy locker is retarded...

So back to the poster. He needs to post up again. We need to know the type of wheeling he does, his budget, truck specs, blah blah blah...

Last edited by 44Runner; Dec 25, 2003 at 01:57 PM.
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Old Dec 27, 2003 | 08:03 AM
  #9  
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Donny, you're out of your element
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From: Marysville, WA
Originally posted by 44Runner
Just writing them off as a crappy locker is retarded...

First of all, I do not appriciate being called retarded. He asked, I answered. Second, I did not just "write them off" I used my personal experience, and other peoples experience to form my opinion. My locker didn't last more than a year, before it began unloading while I was driving. Not just the little click and such that are normal with this style locker. The driveline would turn 2 full revs before engaging, making a HUGE banging noise. It engages whenever and wherever it wants, which includes on the trails. It's very difficult to climb things when you can hear the pins slipping in the locker, and only one wheel is spinning. Many of you many know Wild BIll. He runs a lockrite also. The pins in his locker broke, and jammed sideways. subsequently making it a spool. My buddy Byron broke TWO in his SAS 94', which is only running 33"s. My truck is only running 31's. Its cheap. So if you drive a pavement pounder, that see's trails 1 or 2 times a year like most of these guys, then the lockrite is fine. If you do any serious wheeling, step up and get a better one. When it comes to wheelin, cheap products are a cheap way to kill yourself through failure.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 12:12 PM
  #10  
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From: Denver, CO, US
Since you're doing a gearchange as well, a full-carrier design (except ARB) is quicker to put in than a Lock-Rite. Most shops won't (and shouldn't) charge any labor at all for a Detroit install if you're already swapping gears, it actually removes a step or two from the procedure.

Last edited by toy283; Jan 2, 2004 at 11:28 AM.
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