95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Load Capacity of Factory Roof Rack?

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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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Load Capacity of Factory Roof Rack?

Hey guys I recently picked up a Yakima rack for my 02 4Runner and I want to get the extension so I can carry a spare tire on the rack because a 33" tire wont fit in the stock location under the hitch. I already have my High Lift attached to the rack and I just want to make sure that the factory rack can support the added weight of the tire, High Lift, and possibly some other cargo. So, does anyone know the load capacity of the stock/factory roof rack? I painted my stock rack a while back and ended up covering the warning labels and I couldn't find anything in the owners manual but I am hoping that I don't have to buy aftermarket towers and rails because I know they can be pricey. Thanks!!



Last edited by 4ever4running; Nov 10, 2010 at 09:30 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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If evenly distributed, It should be safe to load up to 200lbs or slightly more.
The factory bars say 165lbs.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...apacity-93197/
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rocket
If evenly distributed, It should be safe to load up to 200lbs or slightly more.
The factory bars say 165lbs.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r...apacity-93197/
Thanks rocket, I promise that I searched for "roof rack" and didn't come up with that thread. Now it looks like I won't have to get aftermarket bars!


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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 08:17 AM
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From: CHESTER COUNTY , PA ; by way of KOBLENZ , GERMANY
I made mine able to hold more weight by adding 2x6's , I'll post pics later after work.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 03:33 PM
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Remember that a static weight and dynamic weight are two different things. I'm sure you could put a couple of hundred pounds up there in your driveway. Now if you are going to have weight up there while wheeling? You are going to have to reduce that weight. I know someone that has broken the cross bars with a spare tire in a Load Warrior.

The weak points are the cross bars. I have seen a few of them break. The plastic sliding mount is pressed into metal cross bar (there may be a set screw). The plastic brakes and the bar falls off. I would NOT put my bikes on the factory cross bars. Anything with a large surface area, like a canoe, acts like a big lever and could easily tear the bars off also.
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Gerdo
Remember that a static weight and dynamic weight are two different things. I'm sure you could put a couple of hundred pounds up there in your driveway. Now if you are going to have weight up there while wheeling? You are going to have to reduce that weight. I know someone that has broken the cross bars with a spare tire in a Load Warrior.

The weak points are the cross bars. I have seen a few of them break. The plastic sliding mount is pressed into metal cross bar (there may be a set screw). The plastic brakes and the bar falls off. I would NOT put my bikes on the factory cross bars. Anything with a large surface area, like a canoe, acts like a big lever and could easily tear the bars off also.
You make a really good point. The only weight that I would have up there while wheeling would be the Hi-Lift, a spare tire, and a shovel, all other supplies would be in the trunk. The bars are rated for 165 pounds so I would imaging that I would be okay with those items up there. As of now I don't even have a spare yet because I am still trying to save up some money to but a spare wheel and tire so I know its not an issue yet. I think I will just keep my eyes open for the towers and load bars on craigslist and pick some up if I find them for a good deal.
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 06:52 AM
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From: SouthWest Littleton, Colorado
I know of one guy that has broken a few cross bars with just a Load Warrior and his spare tire on a pair of stock bars.

I would use a pair of Yakima or Thule cross bars. Yes they cost more but they are solid.
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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From: Revelstoke, B.C.
roof rack

Originally Posted by 4ever4running
You make a really good point. The only weight that I would have up there while wheeling would be the Hi-Lift, a spare tire, and a shovel, all other supplies would be in the trunk. The bars are rated for 165 pounds so I would imaging that I would be okay with those items up there. As of now I don't even have a spare yet because I am still trying to save up some money to but a spare wheel and tire so I know its not an issue yet. I think I will just keep my eyes open for the towers and load bars on craigslist and pick some up if I find them for a good deal.

Personally, I wouldn't put anything on the factory bars except maybe my lawn chairs... I have seen lots of these break as I have worked in the industry.

Best bet is what you noted - get the towers and crossbars. The problem with the towers and bars on the 4 runner is spacing. You either mount it all using the 4 doors or perhaps you use the rear doors and towers in the factory installed tracks.. this will give you a higher load rating.

Like someone else mentioned - the factory bars are a wrapped sheetmetal with plastic covering. A rivet holds it to shape and they are usually screwed once to the 'tower' component. It is at this point that they usually break.

Yakima and Thule only rate there racks for about 170lbs. They use either a 3/4" galvinzed round bar dipped or square. Load ratings differ on application, but I believe its 165lbs on the 4 runner. Could you put more on steel bar racks? - sure, but you risk damaging your roof. I've seen permanent imprints and dents caused by overloading.

Finally to end this ramble - Offroading places unique stresses on a roof rack. Off camber loading, sometimes jerky movements, etc. all will contribute to a higher - as someone mentioned before 'live load'. Best advice I can give, get steel bars and towers and stick to the spare, hi-lift and a couple other low weight items...

Maybe this helps!
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 12:18 PM
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From: CHESTER COUNTY , PA ; by way of KOBLENZ , GERMANY
I took a 8' 2x6 cut it in half. mountes them to the roof rack and theni mounted the HI-LIFT brackets in the front. it is strong as hell i have wheeled with this set up and it took the weight of the tire no problem.













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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by crawyota
I took a 8' 2x6 cut it in half. mountes them to the roof rack and theni mounted the HI-LIFT brackets in the front. it is strong as hell i have wheeled with this set up and it took the weight of the tire no problem.
That is an interesting idea but i'm not sure that it solves the problem because the weight of the tire is still sitting on the factory rack, so the weight could still snap the factory rack.
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 04:48 PM
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From: Arlington, Virginia
You guys aren't going to believe this but today I picked up a complete Thule rack for my truck for only $50!! I was looking on Craigslist today and I stumbled across a guy who bought a complete rack system for his 02 4Runner a couple years ago but sold the truck before he got a chance to install it. The kit came with towers, load bars, locks, and adapters for the stock rails. Everything was brand new in the factory sealed packages and is worth close to $300...and I got it for only $50!! I couldn't believe my luck! I just finished installing everything and it is pretty dark so I will take some pics tomorrow but I am thrilled that I was able to get some more sturdy load bars for such a good deal!


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