I have to go without my yota till Wednesday
My baby's in the shop gettin the timing chain cover gasket replaced.
I was ridin the other day and noticed a small drip coming from the front of the motor.
After some lookin around under ole Tonka i decided it was coming from the passenger side timing chain cover gasket.

Pro's-My truck is properly greased underneath
Con's-The labor was 1,000 dollars estimated.
Pro's-My engine is under warranty
Con's-My baby is in someone else's hands

Therefore until Wednesday, looks like ill be driving the ole 2wd 4Runner to work and back. <Which looks nothing like that.
Then, when Wednesday comes i shall be wheeling

I know this thread has no point, but im mourning. Haha.
So tell me some stories bout your yota being in the shop.

 

did they replace the timing chain for 1000$? or just gasket..?


no stories over here, i work on my runner

 

Hey Bo,

Sorry to hear... Makes sense to let them fix it if it's under warranty. I doubt they'll want it to leave without having done a great job this time... Not the "ALL TIME FAVORITE MOST AWESOME FUN TIME" thing to do for a mechanic,.....'Tearing into a motor they'd just done', hahaha.

I, like my Canadian 87 Brotha up there, am doing my own work. If that counts;

1. Recently did a cam swap to a 261 on my new motor.(Head guy used the original MANGLED CAM!

2. Tore out the Steering pump, yesterday(leaked like a STUCK PIG). Replacing it today.

3. Tearing into the Oil pump area, today, as I TOO HAVE AN OIL LEAK! Grrr! lol. Seems something in there is leaking, and IT BETTER NOT BE THE TIMING COVER! Hoping it's just an oil pump seal or o-ring, or better yet, just the bolt that takes sealant that holds on the Oil pump, top/mildly to the left....

The whole scenario is in my troubleshooting thread in my sig! hahaha.

Hope it all works out, Bo,

Mark

 

Not unless something was wrong with the timing chain,
They pretty much just fix whatever went wrong. And in this case it was the gasket.
Haha i hate taking my truck to get work done somewhere!!!! But if i would have done the work myself (which 99% percent of the time i do) it would have voided the warranty...
Plus they paid for all the gaskets, and they put a new water pump on for me cause it had a small leak to two birds with one stone.

 

Hopefully it's something like that little O-ring around the oil pump.

It started to tick me off when i looked under the truck, and EVERYTHING from the motor to the first uv joint on the drive shaft had oil all over it.
I thought the whole truck had come apart haha.
But thankfully, i didn't have to pay for anything,
And i didn't have to tear into the motor with all this rain were having in sc
Unfortunatly i dont have a garage like normal people.

 

ALERT! LOL.... LOOK at my last post on my trouble shooting thread that's in my sig that has pictures and info.... I think it was that bolt that needs sealant that was my issue. Might be worth checking that for sealant before tearing the rest out. HOWEVER, if you have many miles and other things going on....guess it couldn't hurt to get in there and inspect everything. Just for reference, that bolt(top left of oil pump mounting bolts of 5) takes 18# on the torque wrench. Pull it, clean out hole, slather, re-insert! lol...

Best wishes,

Mark

 

Thanks!!!!!!
Ill take a look at it as soon as i get her back.
Ive talked to the shop and they said most likely wednesday .
So what exactly does that big bolt on top of the oil pump do? Ive always seen it, but never known.

 

Well, Bo, from what I know, it is mainly the upper left mounting bolt for the oil pump....however, the problem is, it goes right through an "oil channel", toward the end of the bolt.... so, without sealant, oil can just seep around the threads, eventually, and pour into the empty spaces of the cover below itself. Since it's too the left, slightly, I'm guessing(PRAYING) that it's been what's beginning to leak down to the passenger side of the front cover and winds up in that bolt channel I had really pouring oil and a lil in the bolt channel above it(which also goes through the AC bracket).

Best wishes, BO! Be thorough and read up until it's burned in your head! hahaha.

Mark

 

If your implying thats whats happened to you, im hoping to...
Because from what these guys tell me at the shop, it was an estimated 13 hour job.
I dont think it should of been that long...(seeing as that my 4 inch suspension lift allows them to pull the oil pan down and timing cover off.)...
But from what they told me, they had to take the oil pan off, Take the valve cover off, take the bolt out of the top of the head which runs into the timing cover, Take the head bolts off, pull the head off, take the timing cover off, replace gaskets, (i talked them into putting a new water pump on while their at it) and then put it back together.
Depending on if they bend of damage the head gasket will determine whether or not they put a new head gasket on.
I thought it was a little much just to get that timing chain cover off, seeing as that ive personally done it on my old truck without removing the head...But whatever floats their boat, its all free to me

 

But i told them id rather them go ahead and replace the head gasket while their at it...
I dont like the idea of crushing that head gasket, and 10,000 miles later re-using it...

 

VERY MUCH LOGICAL, Bo!

If it's free, heck, let them rebuild the entire motor if they're worried they've caused other damage even beyond that, .... WHY NOT? lol

YESSSSS, for sure, if it's no cost difference to you, the best way is to remove the head and change the HG, chase the Head Bolt Holes if needed, fully surface prep, etc., etc.

And, YES, to answer your question, .....that happened to me, so, if you'd already been PROVERBIALLY RAPED, like myself, by a machinist who just went from one of the best in CA., to, "Ahhhh, whatever", you would be stuck having to decide whether to pull this or that, whether to replace ALL of something or just what "MIGHT" be the issue. The guy who did mine is still considered one of the best for ANY, and especially High End Bottom ends/Blocks, etc... and he STILL DOES all that stuff, himself, with some of the best machinery I've seen. But, unlike before, he's no longer having the same guys do the head or the rest of the plug and play on the fronts of the motors, etc.... so OBVIOUSLY, it's a 1 and 3 chance that you're going to get SCREWED,....AND I WAS THAT ONE! lol. I've actually put in around 100 hours, chasing my tail, along with MANY top mechanics doing the same, because they decided to put in a TOTALLY HISTORY original CAM......

The CAM topic,... I mention it, because I swapped out the CAM with a new 261 WITHOUT pulling the head or the timing Chain or cover. Many people have removed the cover without any incident, ....but in your case, ......NO NEED to even consider it. In fact, if I were you, and they told me, "We don't need to remove the head", I would tell them, "NOPE, I don't like that, .....the BOOK makes it very clear that the most fail safe way to do this is REMOVING the HEAD!" lol.

Far as the labor on your truck? 14hrs? I guess, and I'd bet that's what the book says. Not sure why it matters, if they're repairing they're own mess up???? You're not paying any labor, are you Bo?

PS> Are they re-using the head bolts, Bo? 10K is not that bad,.... I'm just wondering.

 

Nahh, not unless they find any problem with them.
It was a brand new long block when it was put in the truck, so only 10,000 miles...I dont think im to terribly worried about it.
Plus Jasper engines seems to be pretty reliable, so if anything goes wrong i trust that they will make it right.
As for your machinest...Sounds like you got screwed haha
But ive been there before...Many times.
Im about to get off work in about 30 minutes, so ill drive on over to the shop and check their progress.
Here's hoping they are actually done!!!
Then i can go play