basically i blew my rad, and decided to do the full 100k treatment...i have 104k on my 5vze so its due. i ordered this kit:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
a new koyo rad, and got some toyota red coolant, mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil, a mobil one filter, fram air filter, and lucas treatments for the fuel and tranny fluid.

We start tearing into it and all is going well until we get to the crankshaft pulley. Those whom are familiar will know that this pulley must be removed to remove the timign belt and related tensioners as well as the water pump and gasket. WE COULDNT GET IT OFF!!! What is the trick for getting the crank pulley off???? We tried adn air ratchet, we tried locking in a cam gear, and then the flywheel, nothing,,,the motor turned. we had to reassemble everything with teh old t-belt and waterpump still installed,,,I plan on tearing it apart again in a week or two to change the tbelt, water pump and remaining pulleys and tensioners and probaly add a tranny cooler and flush the tranny, but now I need to know,,, what is the trick for pullign the pulley!>!>!>

 

I did do a search but couldnt find a specific answer, most were about the accessory belts as mentioned in stir fry boys current thread, or just said to remove, not HOW. Thanks in advance guys

 

factory service manual link:
http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
you should be able to find the manual you need there

 

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/
Step 14.

I've got a tool that I modified with a couple of longer bolts to hold it....

 

I've heard some people disconnected the fuel or something, and cranked the engine to loosen it. I'd do more research before I tried that though.

 

An impact gun should get it off if it's powerful enough but to torque it back on you'll need the tool. Either make one or buy one.

http://www.handsontools.com/Schley-6...L_p_55573.html

 

when mine was changed, we just put a breaker bar with socket (and lead pipe) on the bolt and blipped the engine so the breaker bar struck the frame rail. that loosened it, no muss, no fuss.

just be sure you know which way the bar needs to hit the frame rail compared to which way the belt turns. i wouldn't venture a guess on here (i don't remember which way it needs to be done, specifically), but that's what we did and we were on our way after 3 seconds!

good luck

 

This tool will also work for torqueing the camshaft pulley bolts.

 

I did the starter bump method. One false start (not enough bump) and then second try worked perfectly. I just wedged my big breaker bar against the driver side frame rail and turned the key on and off quickly---no fuel disconnect needed. You will still have to have a holding tool to torque up to the required (218 I think) ft-lbs when you put it back together. Here's mine, made from a 2x4 and some 3/8" stove bolts I had lying around.

Put the bolts on the diagonal and leave plenty of wood on the far side of the hole and it won't split. You don't need any fancy stinkin' plans-- just put two drill bits in the holes in the pulley, position the board and tap with a hammer. Drill out the dimples. Then position your socket that fits the crank bolt (needs to be a deep or impact socket) exactly halfway between the holes, draw a circle around it, and drill that out. Thread in two bolts with a washer on each side and you are done. My bolts should have been a little shorter, but I had these lying around.

Others have made fancy ones of metal but this cheapo POS does the job.

 

Order the toyota pulley holder on amazon for 40-50bucks.

 

Putting a long breaker bar on the crank bolt and bumping the starter works great. HOWEVER make sure you know which direction its going to turn. I got it backwards and was under the truck holding it to the frame rail and had the wife bump the starter.

The starter yanked the breaker bar out of my hand and slammed it in to my ribs and cracked two of them

The second time I did the timing belt I zip tied the breaker bar to the frame and bumped the starter myself

On a side note I do recommend the Schley tool for holding the crank pulley when putting the bolt back on. Also be sure to use some blue locktite and torque the bolt back to the proper FT-LB. If you don't it will wiggle loose and allot the pulley to tear up the end of the crankshaft.



FOG

 

I used my serpintine belt and wraped it around the crank pully so it made like a strap wrenc then hung the other end around the alt or whatever you can lock it down on. it takes a little bit to figure out but it works great. i put a pull bar and a jack handle cheater bar and all of my 240lbs on it and it never slipped. i have done 3 that way and its free

 

I also did the 2x4 method with a couple bolts, very similar to that pictured above. I toyed with the idea of the OTC tool, etc., but couldn't find one locally. Also, I didn't have time to wait for shipping as most were special order and shipping schedules didn't match with my project weekend. A length of 2x4, two 3/8" bolts, 4 nuts/washers, and a hole saw later I made my own tool. Very easy and effective.

Most references you find discuss 3/8" bolts or drill bits. For both my old (blown) engine and the new donor engine, 3/8" diameter was slightly large. I suspect the holes were smaller just because of rust and corrosion (I live in the rustbelt). Even after cleaning out the flaky stuff, 3/8" was still somewhat large. Because of that I ended up having to remove just a little bit of metal around the bolts where they enter the crankshaft pulley. With a little bit of meat removed via the bench grinder it was much easier fit. I marked the location of the holes on the 2x4 by slobbing some marker on the end of the bolts and immediately holding the board in place to find rough centers. There can be a very slight amount of play in diameter as the bolts can be tightened/loosened to where they move laterally a bit.

If you have an impact wrench (which I do) removing the crankshaft pulley bolt is not a problem. You absolutely must have a way to hold that pulley fast when reinstalling and torquing the bolt to spec, which is 217 ft/lbs. That is some serious torque and the wood in my homemade tool began to creak and crack, but it held. Were I to do it again I'd use a slightly smaller hole in the board used to access the crankshaft pulley bolt to leave as much meat as possible in the wood.

One caveat: I had two engines side-by-side on stand, so access was easier. Length of your own homemade tool, if you went that route, would need to be considered if you were doing it in the engine bay versus outside, which I had the luxury of doing. Leverage is your friend. While my application was engines side-by-side on stand, I would have been too nervous about bump starting. And, since you need to hold the pulley in place for re-installation, you've got to have a tool anyway.

 

i built one stout sob to hold the crank had a friend hold it while i hit it with a 1/2'' mac at 120 psi came right off thats not the hard part now to get the crank off we had to use a big puller and it came off do note my crank tool requires two 3/8 drill bits was gonna weld them on but chose not to

 

Off the top of my head I think I just put my truck in 1st and the engine didn't turn. Also put a cheater pipe on the end of my ratchet.

 

I wanted to add something to this post
I am not one to just jump in without doing my research first, if I'm green behind the ears in one area or another I study, extensively search the web.. etc..
OK so..I'm all set with all the tricks up my sleeve to Bust that Balancer Bolt....but..
I could not break it... 6FT breaker bar with 1/2 drive..no good...
I made 'the' special tool, and it held the balancer in place as intended, I next tried a NEW 550ft ft. lb. air impact wrench.. it wound not budge!, so then ( from something I saw on youtube).. I heated the bolt with a propane torch and went at it with first, the Impact driver, but no love.. then back to the 1/2 breaker bar with 6 ft. breaker steel pipe.. and tu-du!!...I broke the internals of the balancer right off..
see photo..
WTF!!! why make the interior of something that is going to be taking hundreds of pounds of torque out of RUBBER??? it's not British right??..

so now ( I think ) my only option is to try the 'started motor' trick and see if I have any luck.. I way out a country road and getting it to a shop is 100's of $$ just for the tow. as it was $200 to get towed home from the freeway..
I head f some way to put the truck in gear and block forward movment in the trany<( mine is automatic).. any one heard of this trick?

If anyone has any suggestions at this point.. that would be great.
Cheers,4xWTF
Photo:

 

Sounds like the perfect excuse to go shopping!!

http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausf...1713417&sr=1-8

That's the cheapest one I saw, the IR ones are like $450!

 

Fog, could you clearly explain how you did it?
Where did you zip tie the breaker bar?
will the breaker bar turn clockwise or counter clockwise?

We just dont want to end up with cracked ribs..

You clearly have the experience, so please help us..

 

I did it. Only once, but it worked like a charm. The rotation is clockwise, standing in front of the vehicle. I wedged a 24" breaker bar against the driver side frame rail. It overlapped by maybe an inch on the end of the handle. I did not ziptie anything or disconnect anything electrical as I wasn't going to let it start and the bar was firmly in place. My first try was as fast as possible, key on to start and back to off. That was not enough. Socket and bar stayed in place. So I did it again, with just the slightest hold at start (maybe "one ba..." , definitely not a whole banana) and back to off. Voilá! Job was done. Hard to break a rib when you're sitting in the driver seat.

 

@ KBALL _ maybe I should have started with this air wrench in the first place. ( 1000 ft lbs in reverse ). that tool tool looks large, so large i would have to remove the AC compressor..
now I just need to get the destroyed balancer off!!
I don't really care about it being at TDC anymore... that can be done later.. for the most part..

any ideas?