I have searched and read the other threads in regards to this topic. However, I have come to the consensus that i really have two options as to dropping the oil pan on my 88 4runner (22re, non turbo) and am not sure which might be more ideal for the situation.

-Drop the front axle

-Pull the motor

The back story here is that I had a timing chain break and currently have the cylinder head off in preparation to rebuild everything. So the bottom end/block is the only part of the motor left in the truck attached to the tranny/mounts.

It seems others have had issues with snapping bolts and such while dropping the axle among other things (mine doesnt appear to have ever been unbolted). Whereas I know my motor has been removed and seems almost easier at this point considering there is easy access to all bellhousing bolts and the motor mounts.

Any opinions on what you would do? Hopefully this isnt a bad first post here

 

Raise the motor a bit. Pulling an IFS diff is a huge PITA IMO.

 

It sure did seem like itd be a huge PITA to drop the diff.... however raising the motor up while attached to the tranny still seems to not give enough clearence for my stock suspension truck. At most I am able to gain ~3-3.5inches of clearence btw the bottom of the pan and the diff.

I guess i could unbolt the tranny and just lift the motor up enough to do the pan and then rebolt everything. But at that point, why not just pull it completely and build the motor outside the car on a stand (put cylinder head, intake mani, etc back on before dropping in)

 

as a newbie , i was able to do it.....

you are right, there are different ways of doing it. WABBIT is right that raising the engine will give you clearance too.

i did not raise the engine OR remove the steering linkage.

see this thread.....it's in there https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/

 

if you are going to over haul the motor ,and you are that far in, you might as well pull it. that way you can check the clutch and do the rear main seal. and you can reassemble it on the engine stand which is a lot easier.

 

Hrmm didnt see that thread in my massive searches in the past few weeks while fixing this truck (bought it and two days later the timing chain broke )

I guess ill unbolt the mounts ant try jacking up the engine tonight before i go full boar on yanking the motor completely.

 

Well the plan at this point is not to touch the bottom end because the previous owner put a new bottom end in it ~50k ago and it still looks great. However, maybe putting a new rear main wouldnt hurt as I think it is leaking.

 

This is why I love my sfa stuff. All you have to do is droop the suspension a tad and the oil pan is easily accessible and removable.

I change my vote. Just cut the IFS off.

 

All in due time.... SFA is in the plans for next spring. Gotta get the thing running well first then time for more mods

 

For those that care, the vehicle in question:



For the most part, stock other then 31x10.5 tires. Has 200k on it, fresh bottom end and tranny in the last 40-50k... got it for 1400 a few weeks ago. Unfortunately the last owner re-used the timing chain when installing the bottom end it seems and it snapped on me 2 days into ownership.

 

I removed the three bolts on the idler arm and removed the bolt for the steering damper. Then I pulled the tie rod down and loosened the d/s motor mount. Jack up the engine as far it will go and snake it out!

 

So essentially you tilted the motor so you could pull the pan out? interesting

 

I have a 4in suspension lift and a 2in body lift, do you guys think i can drop my oil pan and do you guys think itd clear?

 

the thing where most have grief is you must unbolt the pick up tube before pulling the pan out. lower the tube into the pan and pull the pan out.

I can get my oil pan out just undoing the motor mounts and lifting the engine. .

With a stock suspension 87 4Runner