I took my 86 4runner to a smog station in socal on Friday and the tech said my timing was advanced to high so when he went to adjust it he jumped the larger yellow test plug (the one with 3 wires in the back) not the smaller one (the one with 2 wires in the back) and the engine died and now it will not start. He replaced the coil and cap and rotor. Now he is saying it is a different problem and it must have been pre existing! Does anyone have any idea what he could have done? Any help please.

 

if it started there and left not starting, it was not pre-existing. the guy is trying to cover his butt. I hope he didn't try to charge you for the coil/cap/rotor knowing it was not your problem. The mechanic sounds like an idiot, since there is a diagram already on the underside of the hood on how to hook up the jumper to set the timing.

it wouldn't surprise me if the guy fried your ecu putting connectors together that may have not been designed to be jumpered.

check the fuse box for blown fuses. tell him to figure out which components he jumpered together and check them to be sure he didn't bust them by being an idiot.

what was timing at when he said it was off? If he didn't know how to jumper the thing, it leads me to believe the knucklehead doesn't even know what timing is supposed to be in the first place. Which subsequently is also listed on the underside of the hood.

sorry if it sounds like I am ranting, just getting tired of so called mechanics that charge people to fix their stuff and mess it up claiming it came in that way just to charge them even more.

 

He said 5 degrees adv. He didn't charge for the repairs but charged $71 dollars for the failed smog! He said he jumped the horizontal left slot to the vertical left slot. That's when the engine just shut down and would not re fire. If it is the ecu how would i know?

 

it was 5 degrees advanced and it was too far? if so, get that truck out of there, he's an idiot.

why did it fail smog in the first place? because the timing was too far advanced?

 

I'm gonna assume here since it had the jumper then its the 22re and not the 22r carbed motor.

 

yea it shuld be 5 degrees advanced and if he changed that it could be the starting problem also you jumper the middle and top right corner cant rember the numbers and letters on them and you shouldnt have any connectors with wires. just in the diagnostics box!

 

EFI 22re. The truck is back in my garge but not running. He said HC (PPM) was to high or out of tolerance.

 

Vance my rig is an 86 so I have the two yellow test connectors behind the air box on the drivers side inner fender. The stock timing setting is 5 deg BTDC or 0 deg BTDC.

 

the timing if you look is listed on the underside of the hood with all the other smog stuff. It is supposed to be 5 degrees. I would inform the shop's manager that this guy fubbarred your truck and see what he/she says. and how they are gonna handle paying to get it running again. Did you have to pay to tow it back to your garage? if so, they should be paying for that as well.

 

it's 0 degrees BTDC for a carbed turck, 5 degrees BTDC on and EFI truck

 

I have talked to the shop owner and he said that if it turns out to be the fault of the tech then they will cover the bill. But in the mean time it is still not running and I would like to have an idea of what might be wrong with it before taking it to another idiot at another shop.

 

check all the fuses in the box first. Is it trying to crank over or just clicking? Can you hear the fuel pump running with the key on?

I don't have the 22re so I can't tell without researching which component connectors he jumped.

 

Fuses are ok. It tries to crank over but never starts. It is getting fuel as far as I can smell.

 

see if you can figure out which components he jumpered at the connector. and go from there.

 

I'll try that next. Thanks for the help.

 

what are the pin numbers of the diag port he jumpered?

 

Where can I find out the diag port pin numbers? They are not marked on the connector.

 

heh how many pins does it have on it, I am having trouble finding those too.

 

4 pin slots, but only 3 pins that are use able.

 

the only thing I can find is a check connector digram that shows the connector as

+B

FP

IG-

And the other side of the digram box shows

OX

T

VF

E1

That is the order that they are in. I hope that helps.