I hear the click click when I start to turn the motor over. The fuse is fine. I pulled out the fuel pump and am going to the store get another one now. If no spark then that could be what?

 

His is an ECU from an '89 4runner same pin connections.

 

is the engine spinning or just sitting there? the clicking you hear is most likely the the starter solenoid/relay.

 

yo uhave to watch this yes they are the same, but the AFM, TPS, and all other emmissions stuff is calibrated differently leading to different ECU's. CHEF can back me up on that one.

 

Bio, ....STOP! lol. Before you replace the pump, you HAVE to(well, at least you 'should', lol) double check and make CERTAIN that some relay or fuel cut hasn't been engaged because of this guy's ineptitude. Secondly, the way to handle a mishap in a shop like this, MOST DEFINITELY, is to have ANOTHER shop with ASE Certs to find the problem, verify it's due to the C.O.R. or something being fried, ....then 'MR. SCREWED UP, OOOPS, SORRY' pays the other shop for the repairs.....or you pay, with PRE-CONSENT by MR. OOPS to pay for any said repairs as related to blown relays, igniter, fuel pump, etc. DO NOT buy any parts, ...not just yet, ok? I know how you feel and I can guess how you're thinking, "Well, what if other things are wrong and the secondary shop wants more to pay for it?"....don't worry about that stuff. THE MR. OOPS is responsible, ok? Also, ANY decent shop(which you should always research online through the BBB, ok?)....any one of them will most likely be able to find the problems you're having QUICKLY, and then offer to repair them. LET THEM, in regards to the things MR. OOPS caused, but if you want, SURE, take the diagnosis of the secondary shop and do the repairs yourself.......Make sense?

 

have you tried testing the fuel pump by hooking it directly to the battery? or checking to see if the wires to the fuel pump are getting power? I would do that before buying a new fuel pump.

 

Test the fuel pump wires with and ohm meter?

 

yeah but check to see if your getting voltage not resistance. Not sure if it's supposed to have constant voltage when key to run or it has to be cranking, you might want to try both. gonna need a helper most likely though.

 

bio, did you disconnect the battery to reset the computer....

 

89 ECU MOST DEFINITELY could be a problem, Bio. It's got different settings within to test for different readings, as after 88 they went to different sensors and relays, IN SOME things. Many things are the same, but they are NOT the same ECU. Imagine you have a 1000ohm Resistor on your bench. It's meant to go on a '??" sensor. Then, you take a 2000ohm resistor and put it in the place of the 1000k one.......Think that "???" sensor is going to work properly?

The ECU is basic compared to today's computers, but IT'S STILL COMPLICATED, and as the years progress, they figure things out to either save money, increase power, etc.....and thus, the ECU from the later year vehicle is set up to be "code free" if this and this and this and this are all within "Specs" of the later model it's on. When you put it on an earlier model.....it can throw codes, or worse, and then lead you in directions that YOU DON'T even need to look at, ok?

ANY shop that's worth a dang can either diagnose or send off to be diagnoses, ANY COMPUTER, basic, like ours...or complex, like an OBD2 or later system.

ALWAYS use the right parts, on these, and it's REALLY, HONESTLY, ...best to use OEM on any sensor or relay and even cap, rotor, wires, etc. Toyota's just DO NOT take alien parts well.....for example, Bosch O2 sensors are NOTORIOUS for causing problems with 22RE's,...but work fine in the vehicles they come stock in....and in fact, a Denso would not work right in the Ford Probe that takes a Bosch. So keep that in mind if you're going to start replacing parts. Preferably?....DON'T REPLACE ANYTHING until this shop agrees, in writing, to pay for any repairs that are found to be related to THEIR screw up.

Best wishes, either way, ...but personally, as much as I like to fix things myself...HELL NO if I'm going to take on a big 'mystery'(trust me, this could become one, quickly, if you don't find out what he fried/messed up) that some other guy created for me. If your buddy did it, SURE, I hear ya. But a SHOP? NO WAY!

 

YES, or pull the EFI fuse for 30 minutes.

As far as Xxxtreme's question....The fuel pump has power to it once the key is in on position....but NOT if there is an inline fuse or relay that has shut off in order to protect from flooding. I would need to look into the fuel cut system.... but that usually leads back to the C.O.R. or another plug in fuse that would be related. I guess it's possible he fried the pump.....but just seems odd hooked to the O2 connector. However, since it IS related to fuel/air levels, etc....maybe it routes back to the pump somewhere, and in shorting it out, he also shorted out the pump.

I can't remember, but I'm pretty sure guys backwoods bypass these pumps and rig a switch, etc., to have it constantly hot when switched on. Usually that's due to a disconnected/corroded or otherwise wire in the harness, etc., that's forced them to get power to it so they can get home, ya know? So, I would think that if you put 12v to the pump, you SHOULD hear it running way. I'm taking it that he's already pulled it,...have you bio?

 

Actually, X, I think being that it's under the seat in the rear on ours....he can turn the key over and watch the meter to see if it's getting juice(if you're talking about just reading for power while still wired in-but pulled up from the tank.)

Just be very careful, Bio. If you remove it, test it off another battery, but DON'T do it for long. They HATE being ran dry.

 

Sorry for rambling, but the reason I said to take it to the secondary shop, right off....well, it's because even if you replace the pump, because it was bad, blown by MR>OOPs....whatever, ...it's going to be hard to get Mr. Ooops to pay for it without it being FIRST verified by another shop. I have my own business, ...and I would NOT pay for anything that was not verified by another professional of good standing, first.

Best wishes,

Mark

 

fuel pump is fine I hard wired it to the battery and it spins fine. So it is some thing else. I disconnected the battery also, and no dice.

 

next is to see if your getting power to the pump at the pump side of the wiring harness

 

I can pull the EFI fuse and see what happens next. Tomorrow it will go to a shop more then likely!

 

easy to do just hook it up and turn the key and then you should be able to feel it spinning like you did when it was hooked directly to the battery, but like Chef said, don't run it long with it dry.

 

I can hear it spinning. So I'll quite for today thanks for all the help!! Tomorrow it's going to the shop. I'll let you know what the outcome is. Thanks again!

 

My pleasure, ....MANY have helped me. I couldn't tell you exactly where the fuel pump was in March! lol. Well, I knew it was in the tank, ...but just 10 weeks ago or so, ...I was almost ready to pull the tank before I came back on here, thinking, "wait a minute....I thought I could take this out from the top in the 4Runner????"....THANK GOD I DID CHECK! lol. Always verify what people tell you on here, also, Bio. You never can be too careful and if it's a type of 'check' that could wind up screwing components up(ESPECIALLY Lower end)....it's best to have a 2nd and 3rd person verify things, then point you to a PDF or otherwise that tells you 'it's so', lol.

I think we should bet on what it is. I'D BET DOLLARS TO DONUTS it's the C.O.R. or COIL or IGNITER! .....BUT WHAT THE HECK DO I KNOW? hahahaha.

PS> Just out of curiosity, Bio.....The truck was running, at the time, when Mr. Ooops tried to jumper the connector and it suddenly stopped running, correct?

 

It was running just fine! The coil is ok and the igniter I believe is ok.