Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

22re fuel leak

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 30, 2010 | 02:52 PM
  #1  
McMykie's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
Unhappy 22re fuel leak

I've replaced all of the seals on my injectors (I just rebuilt this motor) twice now and every time I attempt to start it, fuel comes out of a different injector. I had some coolant leaks at first, after getting everything back together, but was able to fix that. It was running, not well, but running and didn't have any leaks. The next time I started it, there was a hissing from #1, so I replaced the o-ring seal (it was broken) and fuel started coming from #2. I decided to go ahead and replace all of them and now it's coming from #3 and #2. I'm at a total loss here. I know of a place in town where I can have my injectors cleaned and tested, but I'm curious as to whether or not that's even necessary. I may just be overlooking something, so I'm hoping someone here can help me out.
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #2  
YotaWoRx's Avatar
Registered User
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: BFE
I'd take it apart one more time. use new o rings and cushions. if there is pintle caps on the injectors make sure the notch goes in the groove on the intake manifold... or you could ditch the caps all together. use plenty of grease on the orings before re installing such as high temp brake caliper grease. gasoline is supposedly what is supposed to be used but a light coat of this type of grease wont hurt. after all the bolts holding the fuel rail are on and the fuel lines are hooked up, connect the battery, turn the ignition on and locate the diagnostic port in the engine bay. use a paperclip and jump terminals B+ to Fp. this will fully pressurize the system without having to re assemble everything and run the engine. if its gonna leak it will. if it does leak. pull off the rail and check the injector oring and use a new one...try again..hope this helps
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2010 | 03:31 PM
  #3  
McMykie's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
THANK YOU! I'm too tired now, but I will try that in the a.m. I'll let you know if it works.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2010 | 07:33 AM
  #4  
McMykie's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
I'm having a hard time locating the "diagnostic port". Are you talking about the ECU, or something else?
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2010 | 08:37 AM
  #5  
YotaWoRx's Avatar
Registered User
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: BFE
Ill post a pic of what it looks like in a few min.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2010 | 09:28 AM
  #6  
YotaWoRx's Avatar
Registered User
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: BFE
this is what ur looking for
Attached Thumbnails 22re fuel leak-img00011-20100701-1008.jpg   22re fuel leak-img00010-20100701-1008.jpg  
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2010 | 04:07 PM
  #7  
McMykie's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
According to the FSM and your pics, it should be right next to the fuse panel in the engine compartment, but having pulled and rebuilt this motor, I have not seen any such animal. I've traced every wire and can't find it, unless it's under the chassis somewhere. Here's a pic of the space where it should be. Any ideas where else to look? Maybe the previous owner yanked it? I know this truck's been rebuilt before; that's why I had to replace the head and have the cylinders honed. The head that was on it before had been resurfaced down below the min. height requirements, messing up the timing...
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2010 | 04:10 PM
  #8  
McMykie's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
I can keep doing what I've been doing, but, man, it would be nice to know if it was leaking before putting the upper intake, etc. back on...
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2010 | 06:20 PM
  #9  
YotaWoRx's Avatar
Registered User
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: BFE
if youve got the fsm then look at the wiring diagram and locate the wire going to the fuel pump and jump some power to it. your truck may have it in a different spot or not at all? different year?

Last edited by YotaWoRx; Jul 1, 2010 at 06:21 PM.
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 02:42 AM
  #10  
erock13's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
whats the year of your truck? the fuel pump plug might look like this if is older.. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri.../FuelPump2.jpg

Last edited by erock13; Jul 2, 2010 at 02:47 AM.
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 03:11 AM
  #11  
92 TOY's Avatar
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 12,009
Likes: 122
From: Northeast Pennsylvania
if the injectors are questionable, pack them up and send them to witch-hunter.

for just over $100 shipped to and from and serviced, they came back tested , cleaned , and refreshed with new gaskets and filters.......shipped out on a thursday, back at my house by tuesday.
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:56 AM
  #12  
McMykie's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
Thanks erock and 92. I usually say that it's an '86 in the thread title, but I guess I forgot to do that this time. There's a place here in Badtown, WA that'll clean and pressure test 'em for about $15/ea. and NAPA had the seals and cushions for $1.50 per set. If, by chance one or more of the injectors is bad, do you guys have any suggestions where to buy replacements? I've checked with the local retailers and the running price seems to be $75-90/ea. There's one pick and pull yard here, and I've gotten pretty good at getting to them in a hurry, but would the drop in price be worth it when it comes to performance? Oh, and if I have to replace one of them, do I have to replace them all? If so, then the injectors are gonna cost more than the machinist and the new head combined...
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #13  
erock13's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
i would just replace all seals and o rings and what not for them, and get them cleaned, tested, and rebuilt.. places like witch hunter, rc engineering, and cruzin performance, i think its called, will do it for a little over a hundred, shipped.. its best just to do it now and get it done with, less problems in the future.. idk about yards jus cuz they can be bad as well so ya never know..
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #14  
McMykie's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
My thoughts exactly
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #15  
McMykie's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
It's not leaking fuel anymore, but won't start. It really wants to, though. She'll run for a min and then die. I'm charging the battery now and I'm sure I'll be through with all of this sometime over the weekend. I'm gonna check the valves again. I had them set to .020 on the intake and .030 exhaust, but it didn't sound right, so I set them all to .025. It seems like I remember seeing that suggested here before. Any thoughts on this?
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:35 PM
  #16  
92 TOY's Avatar
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 12,009
Likes: 122
From: Northeast Pennsylvania
here's what i would do.

take out the injectors.....send them to witch-hunter....use the 5 days of holding pattern to get something else done and then eliminate the possibility of a bad injector.....
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:17 PM
  #17  
erock13's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
its intake .20 and exhaust .30 according to fsm.. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...nce/2maint.pdf
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:34 PM
  #18  
ahickman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 413
Likes: 2
Pretty sure the intake and exhaust on a 22re is .008 and .012 in.
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:41 PM
  #19  
McMykie's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
Nope. It's running fine now. I just had the idle (throttle) set a little too low. With all valves at .025, she purrs like a kitten. There's still some minor adjustments, but I think the first order of business, now that she drivable, is going to be getting some clean gas. She's been sittin' on E for 7 mos. now. I may make some minor adjustments still, but I'm not driving to Kansas tonight. Having a buddy around to turn the key and push in the clutch while I fiddle with the motor makes a huge difference. Thanks again you guys! THIS FORUM RULES!!! Hopefully someday I'll be able to provide as much support as I've gotten...
Reply
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 08:54 PM
  #20  
erock13's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
it might be different since its a 93 fsm, im not sure, id figure it would be the same though since its still a 22re.. but thats great.. good luck with it..
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:12 AM.