I finished the installation a few minutes ago. Started the motor and it runs terrible. I thought this was supposed to be a plug and play situation?

The engine starts just fine, but once running it coughs and sputters and acts like it's about to die.

I know I have the right AFM and everything is attached properly, including the resonator.

Am I supposed to adjust something to account for the new AFM?

 

Did you read out the afm? Assuming you are talking about the Supra AFM???

 

What do you mean by "read out" the AFM?

and yes, it is the Supra AFM. The 43110 part # that everyone said to buy.

 

weeeeeeeeeeeell, if you have an FSM in there is procedures for reading out all the wiring internal to the AFM to verify resistance and blah blah. Try that and make sure the AFM is good. Did you put on a new intake tube as well?

 

Excuse my ignorance here, but what is an FSM? Do I have to cut the top plastic cover open? I really don't want to do that. Help me out here.

I haven't tested the AFM wiring myself, but bought it from a place that guaranteed that it was functioning when sold to me. So, I assume it all works. It was extremely well sealed up when I purchased it. Took some serious effort to remove the bottom cover plate.

Yes, I did put on a new intake tube. 3" OD polished aluminum. 3" silicone adaptor from AFM to tube and 90 degree reducing silicone adaptor from intake tube to throttle body. Everything is tight, sealed and plugged in correctly.

Are you supposed to reset the timing to a different mark after doing the swap? Or re-gap the spark plugs?

 

Um, ok.

Factory
Service
Manual

or just a haynes/chilton thingy might work too. You shouldn't have to do anything but plug it in. Do you know how to use a multimeter(or even have one?)? I mean, all you did was swap in the AFM...soooooo, thats the only difference.

 

FSM, I get it now. But, I don't own one. I have the others though.

I have a multimeter and know how to use it. But, how do I test the wiring with the plug in place? Am I wrong here, but don't I need to access to some wiring to test it?

I know, I just swapped out the AFM. Nothing else. I didn't mess with anything else at all. But it runs like crap. Did yours just start up and run normal right away? or did you have to do anything else?

 

Don't have to read any wires JUST the plug on the AFM itself to check it. We already know that your OEM wires are good...right?

Yes, mine fired right up and idled JUST like it did before. I may have had to adjust it a weeeee bit but nothing drastic

 

It wouldn't hurt to check your timing though...

 

So I just dug out my multimeter. I'll check the AFM in a little while when I get back from an appointment.

That's weird that yours started up fine and mine didn't. You used the 43110 AFM right?

oh and yes, my factory wires/plug are good. The truck ran fine until I did the swap. ???

 

yup...

 

Mine works fine too. I agree with Logan, check to see if your new AFM is bad. Maybe someone adjusted it previously, and didn't know what they were doing. Just a thought.



edit: ooooh, I've got airbox envy BBP

 

Silly question, but did you disconnect the neg bat terminal? it should reset the computer.

If your still having issues, Brian from Front Range Offroad did a write up on swapping the guts from the stock AFM into the celica, it may be on his site or Pirate4x4. Seems like there is only a two year range on the AFMs that will PnP. You might have got a newer model. But seems that the guys who have gotten in that situation truck would idle but crap out with increase in throttle as the newer ones send the complete opposite signal.

 

Hey, thanks everyone for all of the replies. I will definitely try unhooking the neg. battery cable to see if that resets the computer.

I thought I knew how to use the multimeter, but I was wrong. ooops. I was thinking of my voltmeter. Well, I'm handy enough and probably can figure out the multimeter since I have the instructional booklet that came with it. But, just in case…I unhook the truck plug from the AFM, touch the two terminals of the multimeter to the plug receptacle on the AFM??? I need to look this up somewhere probably.

 

this should help if you wanna test it, real easy, just put the right ends on each terminal and see what the reading is and compare it to the fsm.. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...33volumeai.pdf its for a 93 but its still a 22re.. and youre sure youre afm is the right number? the only afm compatible with it is the 1982 celica.. In 1982, celicas had the 22250-43110 AFM, and after that from 83-86 was 22250-43150.. im thinkin someone prolly adjusted it though..

 

Thanks! I have access to an online FSM. Guess it might be time to download it.

My part # is 22250-43110. That I do know. But, I doubt anyone adjusted it. The thing was completely factory sealed. I compared it to others so I know the seal was factory original.

Does anyone know what the plunger switch is there for? It isn't connected electrically and appears to only block the inner door from opening completely. But, is there an actual purpose? My guess was for emissions, i.e. restricting airflow for some reason. I did adjust the switch by backing it out more so that the AFM opens up more. I doubt this is why mine isn't running right because it runs like crap while idling not when I rev the engine, i.e. give the inside door a reason to open up. (While at idle the door should be closed and air passes through the AFM via the bypass slot on the side therefore the plunger switch wouldn't even by in play at idle.)

Just woke up. Heading out in a minute to try disconnecting the neg. battery terminal. If that doesn't work then I'll test the AFM.

I'm still open to other ideas/solutions though. Anyone???

 

Show some pics of this by pass you speak of. You do not want any unmetered are entering the system. It will run like crap as the computer tries its best to compensate.

We're heading to the San Juan Islands today!!!!!!!

 

Look at this link: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...33volumeai.pdf

They call it the Air By-Pass Passage. All of the 43110 AFM's have it. Completely normal.

 

muddpigg!!!

I tested the AFM with the multimeter and all was well. Disconnected the neg. battery terminal and waited 30 seconds and reconnected. Started up the engine and…holy s*#t! it ran better than before at idle and kept running good when I revved the motor.

And a special thanks to erock13. That link you posted was great! Testing the AFM would've been a lot more difficult without it. Didn't even need the FSM, phew.

I'm working on getting my idler arm rebuilt right now and I hope to test drive it this evening. I'll report back on how it goes.

Huge thanks to everyone for your help!

 

Well, the damn thing ran good this morning. Just finished the idler arm install and fired up the truck to turn it around. It was a little hard to start and it idles like s*#t.

Right now it's idling at 500RPM whereas usually it idles at 750-800RPM.

Are all of you absolutely sure that there wasn't something else you had to do once you plugged in the new AFM?…maybe adjust the timing? or maybe adjust the idle?

To recap: I know I have the right part #. I unhooked the negative battery cable and rehooked it up. I checked the AFM with a multimeter and everything was within the proper limits.

What the F$*@k is going on!