Yesterday i replaced my water pump on my 22re. I put on a new water pump and gasket. I drove not even 10 miles and the gasket was already leaking out of the top of the water pump housing. I looked in my manual, on previous threads and numerous other places and have basically summed up that you don't use gasket maker. I dont understand what i should do because i broke a bolt yesterday just trying to get it to 10 ftlb's. I need help telling me what i need to do to when i put a newgasket on so it won't leak.

 

I have done a little more research and have found out that maybe i should use some gasket maker... if a should which kind should i use?

 

I used the black RTV. That's been over two years and it's held up fine. You have to torque the bolts down to 48 in/lbs. 10 ft/lbs is too much, so you broke a bolt. Where'd you get that spec, anyway?

So, put the RTV on the pump in an even bead. Don't need much.....maybe 1/4in. Let it tack up a little so the surface is not so liquid like. Then, sort of hang the pump with a few of the top bolts finger tightening them down just so the RTV begins to mush. Then, go around with the rest of the bolts finger tightening them in the same manner. Try not bump the pump doing all of this. Then, go around and evenly finger tighten them all until you can longer finger tighten. Skipping every other bolt, torque them all down until they're all done. Let it cure overnight.

That's the way I did and, like I said, it's held up fine.

 

Thanks a lot for the help. I do not have access to a torque wrench with inch pounds. So i was wondering if you could tell me how many newton meters or foot lbs that is?

 

To convert foot pounds to inch pounds, multiply by 12.
To convert inch pounds to foot pounds, divide by 12.


basically less than 1ft-lb, in which no ft-lb torque wrench will go that low. its basicallly finger tight with maybe an 1/8 turn with a wrench if that

 

48/12 < 1? On what planet?

4ft-lbs, but I wouldn't trust a ft-lbs wrench set that low to be accurate.

 

I always use a little gasket maker (usually the "right stuff") and smear a thin coating on the water pump gasket. I just make sure there are no globs and it is evenly distributed on there. Mine has never leaked.

Per the FSM the water pump bolts get 8ft/lbs

 

$@$%!!.....where'd you find that 8ft/lbs. I mean which manual?

 

I rechecked my FSM and it is 9ft/lbs for the 10mm bolts and 29ft/lbs for the 12mm bolts.

Hope that helps

 

I have the FSM for a 85 4runner 22re, it does not list a torque spec for the water pump or oil pump. If u go to appendix B. It says the 6mm hex head bolts with two lines are torqued to 56in lbs. The three hex flanged nuts should get the same. That is about a 1/4 turn past finger tight. Use a skim coat of Toyota FIPG black on timing cover side, put the gasket on then a skim coat on the water pump side. Torque in cross pattern and let it sit over night. Of coarse you are going to have to replace he broken bolt or it will never seal. Later

 

If you put a thin layer of sealant all around the machined surface of the water pump and then put the OEM gasket on top and put the pump on the front of timing cover and spin all the nuts and bolts on there and then "snug" them all down going around all the nuts and bolts 2-4 passes it should be fine. Remember you are tightening into "alluminum" and it strips easy so its not a TAF situation.

PS: TAF---> Tight As F&$%k

 

These are the torque specs I used. I didnt use any RTV either, just the paper gasket - over a year later no leaks.

EDIT - I bought all new hardware when I did it, bolts/washers etc. Being that the ones you are pulling out are probably pushing 20 years old, it's a good idea to get new ones.

 

Thanks for the input. specifically what gasket sealer should i use i have some ultra black permatex gasket maker then i have some form b permatex gasket sealer, will those work? I did notice that when i took the old water pump off there was some blue silicone stuff on the water pump side of the gasket. So.... what should i use to seal it.

 

It's not that big of deal, biggs. Black will work, silver will work, blue will work, but snot won't. Not that I've tried, but I've heard.

Understand, too, that the waterpump is not under a lot of pressure, relatively speaking. So, it doesn't need to be that tight. In other words, the torque specs are there and can be followed to the T, but the main thing you're going for is simply an even, snug fit and a good seal. Just be sure to use the loc-tite as the bolt do get a fair amount of vibration.

 

Gotta joke for you....

What does a walrus and tupperware have in common? (No google searches allowed. And, if you've heard this before, laugh anyway. It's good for you!)

 

I didn't even bother to use my torque wrench for the water pump. I just held the wrench very close to the socket and snugged them up.

Its not rocket appliance

 

Yeah, but for a first time build, you want to make sure it's done right. I've been there. Once you've done it, you step back and go "oh, it wasn't that big of a deal."

 

mine did the same thing, i just got some head gasket seal and it fixed it right up