Trying to remove the 6 17mm bolts holding it onto the differential. any tips getting them off its like they had locktite or something. Tried liquid wrench it for last 3 days and still cant get them off. Breaker bar is a bit hard to get in there without attempting to strip the bolt. Ive been using just a regular box wrench and another on it for more leverage and wont budge. Any tips appreciated Thanks

 

I put it in 4, locked the hubs, then put a size 17 closed end wrench on the bolts. I held onto the front of the truck and used my leg to loosen it.

 

Impact gun....

 

If yer trying them from the inside, they're splined...

outside are the nuts you have to turn...

 

bolt pressed in, nut turns. take a 17mm place on bolt head rotate till it hits the truss and from the behind the wheel sitting under the doors put your other 17mm wrench on the nut about two bolts closer to you and have the wrench on the nut horizontal and just break it loose with your foot (now don't kick it) grab the transmission cross member and use your foot on the wrench as if it was a leg press. break em loose and keep moving the wrenches. has worked for me the last three weeks at junkyards and at home.

 

Make sure you're turning the nuts not the studs- the stud won't turn.

 

I used a 24" socket extension to be able to get my ratchet handle outside the wheel well. Support the outer portion of the extension on a jack stand, and have a buddy hold the brakes for you. This way you can lean on the ratchet handle and breaker bar as hard as you need to. Rotate the cv until the next nut is at the best access height, and repeat 11 more times

 

6-point socket, breaker bar, cheater bar, liquid wrench, man hands, and some Wheaties. like said before, make sure you're trying to loosen the nut (faces out/wheel) and not the splined stud (faces diff) - that thing isn't gonna budge (at least not supposed to). the first time i took off those CV bolts, they were on there pretty good like yours. ended up soaking them in liquid wrench, locked the hubs and made sure the tire was on the ground so the CV couldn't turn, busted out a cheater bar on the breaker bar and used some man-hands. what sucks the most is only being able to take like 1 or two bolts out before having to turn the CV. not a bad idea to press out your studs and grind off the splines for easy removal in future repairs.

 

Those bolts are really aweful. Even with a breaker bar and liquid wrench, I needed my 350-pound friend to pop the bolts free. I don't know if I coulda done it without him.

 

Best method I found for the junkyard was:

17mm Deep impact socket, big extension, 24" breaker bar.

You need a prybar on the lugs (second person holding it) to keep the cv from turning

 

I like my Chevy with it's allen heads- I was considering a converion for the Toyota so I didn't have to split the ball joints- didn't realize the studs were press fit.

 

ill try the breaker bar again with a small extension when it stops snowing here thanks for all the tips so far, was starting to wonder if i was only one with these tough bolts not to many talk about them

 

Just make sure you are ready for them to break loose. I fell and dented the fender with my chin... that hurt!