i am almost in the same bout as superbleeder here.


each picture is either the whole crank, #2 rod and #3 rod..
#2 is the good looking one. #3 is TOAST!










i was crusing down the road and started to hear a faint knocking noise. so i turned the radio down. and couldnt hear anything. so i kept driving, then i heard it again. so this time i turned the radio off.. and it started to get worse. so i let off the gas. then the tuck died. so i pulled it over. then the first thing i checked was the oil/ it is full, but when i checked it a puff of smoke came out of the tube.. so then i went back and started the truck. it started right up. but had like 2 psi of oil pressure. so i revved it up a little bit to see if i could get some pressure. and the knock was absolutely horrible sounding, as well as heart breaking.

so i towed the truck home and this is what i found.... you can see where the rod journal on the crank is a burnt color. im confused on what may have happened here. it has had 4 oil changes. never overheated. oil always full. this engine has 4,354 miles on it. everything internal is brand new. except for the con rods. (they were machined and matched my setup).

any input would be great..

also. the main journals and bearings look brand new (if i put a brand new bearing next to mine, you wouldnt be able to tell the difference...)

 

Ouch.

I did a quick search but didn't find where you have said what was done to rebuild this engine. What's the history?

 

This may sound dumb but did you plastigauge the bearings? looks like the bearing was not getting oil too tight tolerance on the bearing , Hench asking about the plastigauge or the journal was plugged and not oiling like it should.

 

whats the deal with the double rod bearing on connecting rod cap in second to last picture?hope it was just there for picture as that surely would cause a problem.anyone else notice that?

 

Yes its just there for pictures. Top and bottom bearings

Yes I plastugauged everything! Lol. Everything was with in factory toyota spec.

Brand new crank. Reconditioned con rods. Engnbldr cam. Full rebuild kit from engnbldr. Brand new pistons and rings. Bored out .20 over. New head from toyota auto mart here in sacramento. Timing chain kit from engnbldr with drivers side steel rail. Brand new timing chain cover. New alternator. New water pump. New everything basically. New oil pan. New oil pump. Everything was done to this motor

 

Why was the oil pressure 2 psi?

 

Thats what im thinkin.. oil pump fail leading to bearings going out...?

 

Did you use the 'King' bearings that were supplied in the engn bldr kit? I went thru 2 sets of those when putting together my motor, and they were all out of whack and junk, IN MY OPINION, so I tossed them before I even used them in the motor, ordered Clevite bearings all around, been running damn near redline for 11,000 miles now no problem. You definatly spun a bearing but now you need to figure out why it happened. Oil pump failure?

 

no. i just put the oil pump on another motor and it had 35 psi at idle and 70 at 4grand.

so im guesing there was no oil pressure becuz a) it was really hot and b) the bearing is all jacked up. lol.

 

you can see how the heat discolored the throw on the crank... wow.
Sorry to hear about this. How does the oil hole in the crankshaft look on that worn throw? ... look blocked or anything?

you can see evidence of scoring on the bearings in your last picture too.

 

the holes in the crank look clean and free of an blockages.

and yes, i do agree that the other rods were going to be next if i kept driving it.

(and ive seen people do it. lol). but not me.

 

what did #4 look like, your #3 journal on the crank looks like mine after I rebuilt and found out the front oil galley plug was missing. But the motor only lasted about 5-10 minutes like that before it seized.

How many miles were on the motor after rebuild?

Maybe there is a chance a galley plug fell out ????

 

ouch, that sucks man sorry to hear it

 

Wow, my sencerest condolences. I can only imagine how disapointing it must be, not to mention expensive. It also hits close to home since I have done an almost identical rebuild...my first one too.
Sure looks like and oil issue. Did you check your filter for any sign of failure? You can have your oil tested. Slight amounts of coolant can wash your bearings without showing up on the dipstick.

 

i guarantee not a single drop of coolant has left the radiator since rebuild.

my engine ran about 160-175 degrees. it seems kind of cool.. could this have caused it?

#4 looks like #1 an #2. damn near perfect.

there is only 4,354 miles on this crankshaft.

the oil has metal deposits in it...

i doubt the oil plug fell out because i can not find it in the oil pan.

and after i got it home and it cooled completely off.. i started it again. just out of curiousity and it had 50psi of oil at idle... so i have no clue..

new crank should be on its way soon.

 

oh my god man, that sucks...


that thing got toasty... look at the discoloration on the crank...

 

Who hot tanked the block and cleaned it- barrel brushed the oil galleries? If not the actual quality of the parts or assembly, then- gunk dislodged and partially blocked an oil passage?

 

That's what I'm thinking...

Any time I work on an opened up engine I change the oil pretty soon after that in case sealers or junk gets inside.

 

i changed the oil 3 times within 400 miles. twice becuz it was running extremely rich and turned black fairly quickly. but at that time it was only idling while i was trying to figure this problem out. (no load, no rpms higher than 1500)..

anyways. i got the new crank in the mail last night. and i didnt even have to pay for it, or the shipping. i even got a return label with it.

www.japanengine.com has treated me very well.

 

That's where I got my crank too. twice, first one was my fault though trusting the machine shop to put all of my galley plugs back in. When you got that crank did you clean the gel off of it? Also did you use assembly grease or just oil to assemble the engine? Ted had mentioned to me to use blue marine grease. Which I did, its the Staylube Marine grease in the blue container. I believe A&A sells it.