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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

my new engine is TOAST

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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 02:33 PM
  #21  
dfarr67's Avatar
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From: Edson, AB, Canada
Well...it's the stuff that doesn't come with the oil change that's the problem.
As far as parts go- I really like doing these jobs once- so oem head gasket and bearings from a big name brand- don't get me wrong- I'm running a new Ebay head, rock oil pump and water pump- timing cover, all low tech but the quality is where it counts. I researched the head vender- it's not AFR but what the hey, the pumps are easy to change and I always have an eye on the guages. I take alot of advice from my mechanic who is also a good friend- nobody makes money on comebacks.
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 03:56 PM
  #22  
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From: Concord, CA
I would rather do something right the first time, use all quality parts and spend time on putting a motor together rather than later having to worry about failures or problems a person brings back because of something that was cheap or done wrong.
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #23  
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thats the way i feel as well. and i have no idea what the eff happened or why.

and i have used engnbldrs rebuild kit on other motors before and havent had any problems... just my luck i guess..
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 07:06 PM
  #24  
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THAT SUCKS. Sorry to hear! Good luck!
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 07:32 PM
  #25  
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Yeah good luck dude getting it running again,how about some pictures of your rig.Tried4x2signN you mispelled consumption,lol.
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 08:00 AM
  #26  
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Well, if you use that bock again- you need to pin down why it failed.
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 10:01 PM
  #27  
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i found metal chunks logded in the number three journal. there was also a metal chunk/casting looking mark in every other oil hole in the crank.












some more pix for you guys...
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 10:02 PM
  #28  
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From: Renton, WA
the all white is what it looks like most currently.
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 10:11 PM
  #29  
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I'm diggin the green paint. You've got the exact engine paint scheme as my buddy does on his G54B. Sweet.





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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 02:27 PM
  #30  
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From: Renton, WA
nice!
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 04:44 PM
  #31  
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Did they manage to get debris into the oil passages when the machine shop re-bored it? It seems to me like you've eliminated just about everything except for the block.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 06:15 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by weaselman
i found metal chunks logded in the number three journal. there was also a metal chunk/casting looking mark in every other oil hole in the crank.
I'm surprised you have anything like that in the oil holes. Maybe a piece broke loose?

What brand of crank did you use? Did you clean out the crank's oil passages? How about the oil galleys in the block?

Last edited by flyingbrass; Feb 23, 2010 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 08:44 PM
  #33  
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From: Renton, WA
when i put it all together everything was clean and perfect.

the crank is from www.japanengine.com

i am going to call the machine shop and see how much it will be to hot tank the block and head to make damn sure everything is clean once again. im also going to bring up the suggestion of him not doing it right the first time to see what he says...
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #34  
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From: Oklahoma State
Originally Posted by weaselman


some more pix for you guys...
I think I see one possible problem in this pic, is that a Fram oil filter? Dude, cut that open and have a look at it. Those things are junk.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 03:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
I think I see one possible problem in this pic, is that a Fram oil filter? Dude, cut that open and have a look at it. Those things are junk.
I don't see what people's problem with Fram is...

Although I am NOT using them on my current motor (I've been using the K&N filter), I've used them for YEARS, on every other vehicle that I've owned in the past, and never had problems

If you do cut that filter open and look at the elment, well I garanty you'll find metal shavings in it; what do you expect to find after scorching a bearing like that

just my $0.02

Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Feb 26, 2010 at 03:34 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 03:47 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder

If you do cut that filter open and look at the elment, well I garanty you'll find metal shavings in it; what do you expect to find after scorching a bearing like that
The object of cutting it open is to see if it failed, not to see if it has metal shavings in it. back at ya.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 07:31 AM
  #37  
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I am sorry to hear that this happened to you but i can tell you what happened. If you bought a new crank for this engine or had it machined then i can guarentee that there is metal in the journals of the crank and Number 3 was blocked. This is a common problem when machine shops do this and dont clean it properly. i bought s re-ground crank for my 3vze engine and specifically had them reclean the crank and blow it through. I had had many an engine fail due to this.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 08:18 AM
  #38  
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What a waste- over 5 minutes of cleaning with a blowgun.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 01:13 PM
  #39  
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i made sure everything was clean when putting it back together. i must have missed something..

anywho. im putting my engone back together again. and when i was cleaning out the pan. i pulled out a handful of metal shavings.. oh well... lets hope for the best on puttin it back together this time.
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