ok i know the timing chain is fine its not new but it has no slack, the guides are fine, vacuum lines are fine, i have heard about some plugs you have to short near the airbox but i cant find them. i have a diagnostics plug near the battery is that the key? what wires do i plug on an 87?

the timing mark just bounces around and wont stay anywhere near the oil pump marker.

also.. the distributor is not 180 out, i have already figured that one out.

thanks for your help guys!

 

i think.. not sure but it's the (E1) and (t)just put a paper clip in those 2
you can see it on the cap of the diagnostic plug to find out wich one it's wich one

 

jumper the diagnostics port and start it

mine jumps around a bit as well.....curious the solution

 

ok so i just jumped the wires in the diagnostics plug and didnt change the timing at all. it still jumps around from about 18 degrees to 15 or so. i also found the TPS and took that out and it had a tiny bit of stick in its action so i cleaned it with brake cleaner and it seems to make a bit of difference but the truck is STILL really gutless and ive tried both of my MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR's that i have and its not making any difference either.

also.. one of the times i started it up(it is frequently dying at idle or after 5 minutes of driving it wants to turn off) the alternator just started PLUMETTING out smoke..

HEEEELP!!!

 

ive also checked to see if the air valve in the intake is working and it seems to be because when i pinch the air hose the rpm goes down like is is supposed to. but its just really weird because when i try and start the truck sometimes it catches and turns on and sometimes it takes 4 or 5 tries. and now that my alternator is blown the damn thing is running out of juice so now i have to address that.

also, i have replaced the ignitor, wires, plugs, and cap and rotor. nothing is working. what the heck!!!???

 

okay...maybe you have a vaccum leak because the timing it's supposed to move when you put the wire in there(did not move?)

 

didnt move any more than it already deos(sputters between 15-20) i found on another thread that that might be because the TPS is dirty so i took that off and cleaned it....

no difference... then my alternator started smoking... great!

 

did you test/adjust the tps according to fsm specs? If they tps isnt adjusted right when you jump the terminals the idle wont drop.. but when set correctly it should lower a bit.

 

no i dont know how to test it to spec i just made sure the spring worked and sprung the tps back into the correct idle position. can i test the tps with a normal ohm reader?

i had my friends come over tonight and take a look at the truck and after we did EVERYTHING to the damn motor from changing the fuel filter, to replacing spark plugs and even the igniter with a spare that im 99% sure works fine, we still couldnt get it to 5 degrees.

yes i shorted the 2 wires in the diagnostics box, and yes i moved the distributor 1 tooth in both directions just to make sure it was right and it is... so then my friends look down the timing cover and the TOP of the guides are almost warn through so im thinking the bottom is probably gone.

although i have an exhaust leak as well(so its very loud) im pretty sure i can blame alot of the noise on a hidden chain slap.(hidden by the exhaust leak i mean).

so now i get to tear down the timing cover tomorrow after work.. sweet...

let me know if you guys think this could be anything else..

ill explain what its doing again:
it wont go to 5 degrees or even anywhere withing 10 degrees of that, and the chain is alligned properly, and so is the distributor.

sometimes it starts and idles wierd sometimes it wont start at all.

ive been through freakin' everything and its not wanting to play ball with me so i guess the next step is timing assembly huh?

wish me luck.

 

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...#TPSAdjustment

 

hmm.. it seems to work after retiming it like 3 times. i dont think anything was different but maybe since its been sitting awhile it had to warm up a whole lot or something.

now i have to trace a front-of-motor oil leak and clog it..

 

Not many places on the front of the engine that oil will leak from. the likely target is the front crankshaft oil seal.
Good luck.