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Crankshaft bearings shot! A litte help plz?|

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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #1  
landin's Avatar
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From: BC, Canada
Crankshaft bearings shot! A litte help plz?|

Hello all, I drove home for Christmas my 88 22-re 4runner, with 360,000km. The trip total was: 2000km return. During my return the clicking sound of clearance from my oil pan started to occur. After confirming with a professional I was recommended to change out the bearings, and if; only if necessary, change out the main crankshaft bearings......

I am just looking for a little advice before I dive into this big job.......


Thanks so much!!!

And I look forward any advice......
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 01:20 PM
  #2  
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Uhh, make sure you have a warm garage? Why are you not doing a full rebuild if you have bad crank bearings?
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 01:23 PM
  #3  
camo31_10.50's Avatar
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From: Vian, OK
yea dude..since ya gotta tear it down to the block (to do a decent job at least...you could just change out the bearings..but it wouldn't be the "right" way) ya gotta replace the gaskets..might as well rebuild the whole thing!
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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From: Calgary, AB
Ticking noise from the bottom end is usually from ROD bearings wearing, causing the connecting rods to bounce around on the crank. The problem with a bad rod bearing is that it's likely stretched out the rod from all the excessive banging around, and might need to be replaced.

Do youself a favor, and pull the motor. Yes you can replace rod bearings and even main bearings whle the motor's in the car (I've done both!), it's not worth it. The journals on the crank are likely scored, and/or have chunks of old bearing on them, and will just chew up your new bearings up. Plus, it's just a major PITA to deal with.

Buy a used motor, and swap that in for the time being, take the old motor out, have a machine shop polish up the crank, and clearance all of the bearings. Or, clearance them yourself. Plastigauge works well for that. Buy a service manual, and learn how to identify the bearing sizes needed for your motor. The 22R-E has 3 or 4 different sized of bearings that can be installed to get optimal bearing clearances.

Rebuilding the bottom end isn't that hard of a task, but it takes a little time, and patience. This is why I recommend getting a replacement motor for the time being.
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 08:12 AM
  #5  
landin's Avatar
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From: BC, Canada
Originally Posted by annoyingrob
Ticking noise from the bottom end is usually from ROD bearings wearing, causing the connecting rods to bounce around on the crank. The problem with a bad rod bearing is that it's likely stretched out the rod from all the excessive banging around, and might need to be replaced.

Do youself a favor, and pull the motor. Yes you can replace rod bearings and even main bearings whle the motor's in the car (I've done both!), it's not worth it. The journals on the crank are likely scored, and/or have chunks of old bearing on them, and will just chew up your new bearings up. Plus, it's just a major PITA to deal with.

Buy a used motor, and swap that in for the time being, take the old motor out, have a machine shop polish up the crank, and clearance all of the bearings. Or, clearance them yourself. Plastigauge works well for that. Buy a service manual, and learn how to identify the bearing sizes needed for your motor. The 22R-E has 3 or 4 different sized of bearings that can be installed to get optimal bearing clearances.

Rebuilding the bottom end isn't that hard of a task, but it takes a little time, and patience. This is why I recommend getting a replacement motor for the time being.

I am totally on the same page.

I cant seem to find a cheap 22re anywhere, cheap being the key word. Might have to let her sit for a while :/

I think I found decent priced rebuild kit/s at 22re.com ? Anyone purchase off there?

Now I have the big question presented to me, what do I/should I rebuild while the engine is out.

I do know the rob bearings need replacing and after your reply the rods too......?

I did find this rebuild kit as a start:

$394.68
Main bearings, Rod bearings, Thrust washers, , Full gasket and seal set, Pistons, Piston Pins, Premium piston rings, Some kits have Freeze plugs, Timing Belt or timing chain kit, Oil pump.

$245.54
Reground Crank With Bearings to Match

$245.54
Assembled with valves, guides, springs, retainers, keepers, stem seals,cam, seals lifters rockers and shafts (where applicable)

Now I know by going all new, I am going the expensive route, but is it not worth it on some level?

Am I missing anything?????? Sure does add up quick!!!! But I am trying to stay optimistic telling myself I will have a VERY reliable engine once done lol


Cheers!! And let the fun begin!!!!
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #6  
1990yota-pickup's Avatar
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From: hubert nc
get your self a used engine and drop in there.. and use your eng that has a knock in it as a learn expeance and built it to how you want it.. so when the used engine go's out you will have one for one swap.. save time and money in the long run..
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