I recently picked up an '83 4x4 22r project truck. First step of the project is an engine rebuild. I've rebuilt 2 engines before (10+ yrs ago), neither was a Toyota and both came out of boats, so a little different.

The engine is close to being ready to be pulled, but I've got a couple last minute ?'s. I've got 3 engine-2-tranny bolts left to remove, the upper 2 and the 1 hiding behind the clutch push foot(for lack of a better term). The latter one I can't get to with a normal 17mm socket, with or with out an extension. Regular socket doesn't give enough space to get away from the bellhousing, extension puts you right in the way of the "clutch push foot". Would my missing 17mm deepwell do the trick? If not, what is the trick.

As far as the upper 2 engine-2-tranny bolts, how the h#@l do you get to them?!

Last ? relates to the tranny itself. Chiltons talks about loosening rear tranny supports, jacking up tranny, blah, blah. Essentially getting redy to drop the tranny inorder to yank engine. Can't I just unbolt the engine/tranny, support engine with cherry picker, slide engie forward & then lift? If not wht do I need to do.

Lastly, are there any mods/upgrades I should be looking at while the engine is out. I'm trying to do this on the cheaper side as the engine rebuild is part of a larger project; this truck will eventully house a '78 Chinook Newport camper which is currently gutted to the fiberglass shell & will need an extensive remodel.

Thanks in advance for any & all info, it is greatly appreciated.

KRJ in NW MT

 

You should post this in the 84 and older tech section if you want some response this is a for sale thread. Also Try searching in that forum you might find your answer

 

Thanks for the heads up, I thought I was in the engine forum, don't know how I ended up in for sale. Kind of a hard site to navigate in.

 

Welcome to Yotatech

Upper 2 bolts - You can use 3-4 long extensions and a universal joint. You can also lower the rear of the transmission to get in there.
Upgrades - The only one that I would really recommend would be the metal timing chain guide.

 

Thanks. Got the upper 2 off with a longer box end wrench and alot of small turns. Took a 17mm deepwell and cut off about 1/2" to get the one behind the release fork.

Engine is out and haning on the hoist. Tonight will remove clutch and transfer to stand. Anything to look out for while removing the clutch?

I'll definetley look into metal timing chain guide. Is the original plastic?

 

Your right, no surprises taking off the clutch. Pretty rough shape, the flywheel side had partially desintigrated. Didn't look too closely at the flywheel but I'm sure theres some scoring. I'm guessing I can get it turned, like rotors, at a machine shop?

As far as how much of a rebuild, well this truck is part of a bigger project; it will eventually house the '78 Chinook camper. Said camper is currently gutted, removed from it's original 2wd truck, and sitting on my old snowmobile trailer in my yard.
The engine will be a complete rebuild from the block up; anything that needs replacing or makes sense to do while I'm in there. The interior needs some work, but luckily not a ton. Main things are making the truck mechanically sound and remodeling interior of the camper.
To that end, as much as I'd love to dump a bunch of $ into the motor, I'm spread kind of thin so major engine upgrades aren't happening. I do have to replace the exhaust so I will do an upgrade there.

Thanks for the advice, I'm sure I'll have more questions coming.
Kevin

 

Yes, the stock timing guides are plastic.
Also Gnarly4X stated about upgrading the camshaft.
It makes a noticeable difference and is cheap. In my girlfriends truck I used a 261C/Crawler from http://www.engnbldr.com/ it cost about $80.

 

remember pictures or it didn't happen.

good luck

 

Still plugging away on the rebuild between work, skiing, firewood, and hunting.

Got into the top end today. First thing I noticed once the cover was removed was a crack in the front rocker assembly support. At first it looked like a small crack, but once the assembly was off and I removed the retaining screw and slide the support off, it fell into 2 pieces. The rest of the assembley looked great, no other cracks and no slop in the rocker arms. All oil clearence measurments were within spec, 0.010-0.050mm, according to Chiltons.
In regards to disassembly, inspection, and reassembly, the manual is pretty adament about keeping parts inorder and returning them to original position, understandably. This makes me wonder about the replacement of this broken rocker assembly support.
Can I just pull one from a junk yard and be OK? If so, What years are compatable with an '83 22r?
Do I have to replace the entire assembly? Again, if so, what years are compatable.
I guess, in short, what do I do about this.
Maybe just as importantly, what does this indicate? What causes a rocker assembly support, which is bolted on both sides, to break within 2cms of one of these bolts? Maybe I'll find out once I get deeper into the engine, but if anyone has ideas, please share.

Next question is in regards to the H2O pump. Is there any way to test it? I'm all for blindly replaceing parts while your "in there" and it makes sense, but the H2O pump seems easy enough to get to, so why replace it if it doesn't need replaceing. How can I tell?

 

Almost forgot.
At whokrz - thanks for the heads up on the cams. Someone else suggested LC Engineering, nice stuff, but their cheapest cam is around $160. Heard a lot of good stuff about engnbldr since you've mentioned them.

At tmcorbin - pictures are abounding. If your intereseted, you can see a couple @ toyotamotorhome.org/forums/techissues/'78ChinookNewportRebuild. Its a slow process, so once I get further along I'll post more there and maybe here if there's interest.