My wife's 2001 4Runner with 3.4 and 160k miles had the oil light come on and blink intermittently. She got home and told me and I checked the oil and it was almost 2 quarts low. Oil was checked 3 weeks ago and was fine. Hard to do at home since driveway and street are both on a slant.

Anyway filled with oil and light went off. Test drove and no light. Let her drive to work and the light reappears, she tries to make it the 4-5 more miles to work and the timing belt sprocket (drivers side) lets go and pops through the timing belt cover. (pictures coming). I am assuming oil pump went out and that there is likely enough damage that I need a replacement engine.

I am at a loss as to what to do. We love this vehicle and use 4wd a lot on our trips to the beach. However, we still owe 5k on it and are on a tight budget. I have some mechanical skills although you wouldn't think so for not taking the oil light more seriously.

I've done quite a bit of searching online and seen the remanufactured long blocks for $2300-$2400. Did a Craigslist search, no used engines 4 sale here in San Antonio. Haven't started with salvage yards yet.

Need advice and recommendations on engine suppliers, what to look for, engine replacement tips, etc...

 

I did some looking on-line for one in Texas and could only find one that had "It smokes" in the description of it. No good there. I did find one for you here. They don't list mileage, but it does come with a one year warranty. I've bought a used Lexus SC430 engine from them for work ($12k motor!) and it was delivered in excellent condition.

The only tips I can give you, is once you get your used motor, do a 90k service on it. Replace the timing belt, water pump, cam seal, crank seal, idlers, drive belts, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets and the rear main seal. That's likely to add $800-$1000 to the cost of your engine, but it's better to change it all now while the engine is on a stand then to have to do it later (especially the rear main seal).

 

something doesnt sound right. That is alot of oil to be missing in a short time frame. Something has to be covered in oil or there is a cloud of blue smoke behind you while driving.

If you dont have either of these, who ever checked the oil three weeks ago probably checked the trans instead. Classic example of why you dont take you cars to quick lubes

 

Check out Greenleafauto.com. I have got motors from them. They were always clean and professionally packaged and shipped. I just looked and they had several 5vz-fe with mileage from 76,000 to 150,000 and prices from 1300 to 1800. They come with a 6 month warranty on parts. For about $300 you can change that to a 1 year parts and labor. And for another $300 or so you change that to a lifetime warranty.

 

Oil doesn't count as being full if the motor is running when checked

 

Search here - There are a few low time engines in the state. $2400 for a 29k-mi. in Houston, $1400, 44k-mi. in Grand-Prairie, and one in SAT (Nica's) with only 21k mi., no price quoted.

 

Makes me glad i installed a aftermarket oil pressure gauge...eventhough i check my oil every two weeks.

 

If the oil light ever comes on you should pull over immediately and should engine off and check oil. Never drive it with oil light on. I bet someone learned a lesson.

 

here u go
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140184

 

I was just gonna post the same thing, Johnny is a good guy.

 

I know the wife is alittle hard on her machine. Thats why i look under the hood at least once a week.

 

Thanks for the responses. For future reference is the oil light indicating low oil pressure from the pump failing or can low oil (1.75 qts) be enough to lower the oil pressure to set it off.

Yes, an oil pressure gauge is a must. At least you can set a baseline and get an earlier indication of a problem.


I have seen remanufactured long blocks for $2250 plus core charge. Would it make more sense to go with one of these than to pay $1600-$1800 for a used motor. How much more work would be involved in doing the swap.

 

Its a low oil indication which can also lead to low oil pressure....now if you hear the valve train you have a problem. First check the oil level, if its full you might have a faulty pump, if its low add oil and if it goes away you should be good to go.

Now since its the wife 4Runner shes the only that can monitor these kind of things. Next time at least once a week drive it around park it on level ground and check the oil. That way eventhough the level will rise some due to expansion when it gets hot, youll have a better indication on how much oil is in there. My truck is parked in the driveway so checking it cold is not really an option...ill check it when i get gas.

 

Here's what you don't want to see when you pop the hood.

 

Seized the cam and broken the sprocket. Very common for engines with lack of oil heh.

I would go low miles used over rebuilt ANY day of the week. rebuilt engines use cheap Taiwan/Mexico aftermarket junk parts, and won't last as long as a used engine will with regular maintenance.

 

x2. And get a guarantee that it runs.

 

Well anyone can guarantee that it runs. The good wrecking yards will tell you how LONG it was ran, compression, oil pressure at 3k rpm, and other things. Or even let you hear it run!



oh wait, thats just our yard

 

Ok I understand that. So you feel for example that for approximately the same price a 100k used engine is going to be more reliable that a new rebuild? Does this apply to every volume rebuilder you know of?

 

I would take a 100k tested used engine over a rebuild any day of the week. Most engine builders use inferior quality parts that do not last nearly as long as OEM parts. Just remember, there is a reason the rebuilds are so cheap.

However, the engines posted above had 44k, 26k, etc. Those engines are far and away better than a rebuilt motor.

 

The 2nd-X chromosome claims another victim.