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1UZ-FE into 1988 4runner 3.0 3vze

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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 04:44 PM
  #1  
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RMA
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1UZ-FE into 1988 4runner 3.0 3vze

so I thought Id post avideo of the first time I drove this thing. Ohh Turn your speakers up high!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFj81iEv7IA

So I am going for it , been thinking about it for a bit and now I going forward with this swap.

I will be using the ls 400 engine and transmission along with an Inchworm prerunner adapter and a 21 spline gear case.All the other stuff I will figure out as I go.I will not be using A/C or cruise for now.This is my first swap of any kind and want to keep it simple, I am also doing this alone. well besides lextreme.com,UZswap.com and all the other sites with uz info and there members. Oh and TIS also. with out them I would not be trying this.

1UZFE
A341E
Prerunner adapter www.inchwormgear.com #300-0052
21 spline gear case
accessories from ls 400
lexus cluster
Home made motor mounts.
Home made crossmember
ls 400 fuel pump.
2003 tundra exhaust manifolds ?
2003 tundra down pipes
sc 400 oil filter Housing.

So june has been a very busy month my son turned 9 had a party, My wife wanted me to do a little remodeling of the house before I started on this so now that I am done with what she wanted (carpet,paint, hardware) on with the show.

I bought a complete car for $1100 1992 ls 400 no traction control,drove it home 2hrs ,the car had the check engine light on pulled codes ,1 code came up #25 lean malfunction, cleaned air flow meter and still had the code bought 2 new main oxygen sensors off ebay and that fixed the problem.

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Wifes been driving it every day and its running good, This is the first time I drive one of these cars and the passing gear is great just pulls and pulls wont quit.

So on monday I started to pull the engine from the 4runner , tuesday I got the engine out took me about 4 hrs total ,the tranny is still in the truck will pull it tonight .

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Thursday I started to label wires and finish removing some of the stuff I will not need .
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I will add more info as I have time I will try and put as much detail on here to make it easier for others.

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Hopefully on monday after work I will start to pull the engine from the lexus, This will be a slow swap I need to familiarize myself with alot of things in the lexus once I pull the engine out.

The lexus has 2 cats and 4 mufflers .

I still dont know if I need all 4 mufflers the lexus has to pass referee and smog , if any one knows please let me know.
I will keep the engine and eveything with it pretty much stock until I get it to the referee , then I will change the exhaust and intake.

Last edited by RMA; Apr 10, 2011 at 05:50 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 05:24 PM
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Subscribed!!!!!!!!!!!

Can't wait to see it done.
Sorry i never called about those doors, i was super busy the whole time i was down in the bay.
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 05:46 PM
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My brothers build you might find it interesting.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=54482.0
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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So I was able to remove the tranny and complete exhaust.
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I also picked up a spare 1uz block so I can rebuild it , and a set of sc 400 exhaust manifolds along with the sc oil filter housing and starter.
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I have read that the ls 400 maniflods do not fit in between the frame and that the sc manifolds do , so we'll see, also the oil filter hits the frame when attached to the ls 400 oil filter housing and that the sc housing will help this clear, again we'll see.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by whokrz
My brothers build you might find it interesting.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=54482.0
Yea thanks , Reading thru your brothers thread I see the sc manifolds did not fit .
I have read so much info that some of it contradicts others.
I guess it all depends where you mount the engine and if you have SFA or IFS but Luckly I have both . Looking at the ls manifolds a little closer today I think the ls manifolds are the ones that are going to work they hug the engine and tranny much better or closer.


Ok saturday I was able to put in about 2 hrs of work and spent it just goin thru the wiring in the 4runner. I have the toyota electrical wiring book for the 1988 4runner and some of the wiring inthe book is not correct to what is in the truck . I had to trace some wires to make sure they what i need .
Mainly dash cluster wires. I aslo downloaded all the info I need as far as wiring from TIS or Techinfo.toyota.com.
The wiring diagrams for the lexus are so much better then the book I have for the 4runner , everything is in color and makes things so much easier.
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Today sunday I spent about 4 hrs working on the lexus I started to undo wires and hoses , getting ready to pull the engine. It was so hot out there ,man it was really hot.I spent the time working mainly on the top of the engine the only thing I did underneath was spray some pb blaster on some nuts for tomorrow.
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After these pics I started to power wash the whole under side of the car just trying to clean some of the oil under there to make it a bit easier.
Looking at the fuel lines and seeing they are on the drivers side and the 4runners are on the passanger side , I think I may use the full length of fuel lines to the tank from the lexus..
The alternator is wired exactly as the 4runner so I think that shouldnt be to hard to wire together to the 4runner.
I will spent some time tonight looking at the ls wiring just to familiarize my self with it.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 06:59 AM
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Wow, I am subscribed. Looking forward this being completed. Thats going to be one sick 1st generation 4Runner.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 09:05 AM
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sweeet....
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 09:24 AM
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Let me know if you have any questions about the swap. Mine is done.

You will want to use the sc400 headers and SC400 oil filter. You can use a 90 degree elbow used on jeep 4.0s to turn the oil filter 90 degreees down to clear the frame also.

Now depending if you are sticking with IFS you will want to use the LS400 front sump or if you are going solid axle use the SC400 rear sump.

The alternator is easy to hookup its just 3 wires and the main power wire. Two of the wires go to the reference voltage and the other goes to the charge light.

For the fuel lines just get some of the silver heat sheilding that you can put over the fuel line and you will be fine.

For wiring use the starter relay thats in the vehicle for starting. Then get 2 other relays. One relay will be for the ECU and the other to run your fuel pump and injectors. Then get a extra relay to run your fans.

You will have to remove your ebrake as the engine valve cover will hit it. So what i did is took the ebrake from the sc400 and mounted it between the seats. Now a 3 in body lift may allow it to clear though.

For cooling i used a 25x19 summit racing radiator and two permacool 10in 2350 cfm fans mounted as pullers. Pushers will not work at all and the engine will overheat. Then use a decent size trans cooler mounted infront of the radiator. I also heat wrapped the headers to keep the heat down in the engine bay.

Exhaust wasn't fun. I used two catco cats but those may not cut it in california.

Thats all i can think of right now. Good luck its not a easy swap, but not bad.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 03:03 PM
  #9  
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Gennro , I was hoping you would chime in somtime.
hey thanks for the radiator info.
Hows the truck running?
I think I will go ahead and use the fuel lines from the ls and route them to the drivers side since the ones on the 4runner dont reach, dont want to buy anything I dont really have to, at least thats the plan but well see once i remove them..
Did you get your tach,oil ,water ,alt gauges working.I will be using a 4cyl cluster but am unsure if I should use the senders from the 4cy or the 1uz.
Thanks !!

Off to work on the car ,I will try and pull the engine today , I didnt get to pull it yesturday.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 03:41 PM
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I used fuel injection hose to get the line from the passenger to driver side. Was much easier then rerouting lines.

I'm only using the water temp guage on the cluster and plus i don't have a Sr5 cluster. Which the cluster is going to be replaced with aftermarket gauges. The truck is running fine except for a bad knock sensor which is pulling timing.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by yodathespian87
Wow, I am subscribed. Looking forward this being completed. Thats going to be one sick 1st generation 4Runner.
Originally Posted by TOYOTA 1
sweeet....
Thanks Guys I dont know how long this will take me but I will get er done
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 07:56 PM
  #12  
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Ok so its official My wife thinks I'm crazy for tearing 2 perfectly good cars apart.

so after fighting with the dash from the lexus I finally just tore the damn thing up to get to the computer and unplug the wires for the engine.

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all that for this..
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Then I started to pull the engine ,went pretty smooth until the engine was about 1ft up off the crossmember then I realized I forgot to remove 2 10mm bolts holding the alternator harness to the crossmember.Had to stop pumping the jack then unbolt thes bolts . After that went pretty smooth and it came out.
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I really just wanted to roll it to the 4runner and see what it looked like but no I just put the engine away and came in to shower and postup.
Gonna stare at some wiring diagrams for a while now.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 09:10 PM
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So I didnt have much time today to work on the car , the time I did have I used to remove the ls oil filter housing and was going to install the sc 400 housing but I did not have the longer studs .
All the reading I have done I never came across the fact that you need longer studs for the sc oil filter housing so I did not get them , now I need to pick some up.
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ls housing on the right I will use the sc housing from the left .
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Just a mock up not installed.
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I removed the engine mounts and also the egr pipe was broken , which is common on these motors, I will also need to pick one of these up also.
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And just for the heck of it , my son playing with the welder.
I know I need to get him some gear.
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So I need to pick some parts up and make some motor mounts , I will use the 3.0 mounts and add to them.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 09:32 PM
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He is wearing more gear than I normally do, nice to see him learning to weld.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 04:05 AM
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Hey RMA, Just cut the old mounts off the frame and get some 1/2 4" wide plate steel. Sit the motor down in the engine bay and drill and weld the plates to the frame then space the motor up with some washers or poly. The engine is very smooth so you can mount the engine solid which i highley recommend since everything in the engine bay is really tight.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 04:27 AM
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well if i get tired of my 3.4 swap and pick up another blown 3.0 truck i gotta read up on your swap.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 04:42 AM
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wow, I never new the alt was that low in the engine bay. Kinda of looks like it would be a pain to change. Doesnt look like it would hold up in a water crossing or if you get caught in a mud hole either
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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Man how did I miss this? Any updates?
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 06:51 PM
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Spend $10 and buy the boy some welding gloves.

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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 08:08 PM
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looks great. cant wait to see more progress!
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