just did a body lift and now truck is overheating please help.
#1
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From: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
just did a body lift and now truck is overheating please help.
hey guys i just did a body lift on my 93 pickup and now the truck overheats i was like hmm maybe rattling the rad around clogged it because the rad is rusty inside and the rad was hot at the top and cold right in the middle. so i change the rad and still it goes right to red after a few mins and i shut it off fast. also the truck idles like at 1500 to 2000 rpm fast like it has a loose vacuum line at idle. my buddy was thinking maybe the ecm is shot because it overheats and idles super rough. the truck ran like a champ before the body lift.i dont see how a body lift would make it overheat. my friend will ask his mech teacher tomorrow for me. im so stumped right now and dont want to tow to a mech.
#2
well the rad should be hot at the top... its where the hot coolant goes into the radiator. Is one of your hoses by any chance kinked? Just assuming that since the radiator is attached to the chassis, and the motor is attached to the frame, when you do a BL, you need to change your hoses to compensate for the inch you gained vertically
#3
How tall a lift?
Did you relocate the radiator with the body lift?
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...shtml#Radiator
Did you relocate the radiator with the body lift?
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...shtml#Radiator
#4
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From: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
i stuck in the drop brackets. i did a 3inch body. on the other hand i got dope 33x12.50 superswamper tsls i think for free with good tread. tommorow im going to change the thermostat and check for a loose vacuum house but i checked most of them. it seems like i have a huge leak.
Last edited by gary96360; May 4, 2009 at 09:56 PM.
#6
Make sure you burt all of the air out of the cooling system... your heater core is 3" higher then the rad now. I had a tuff time getting all the air out of mine (2" BL)... ended up puting in a valve in one of the heater lines and backfilling it while the engine was cold.
#7
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Marysville, WA

Try this: Drain the coolant. Take the upper heater hose off, and fill the system until water pours out of the outlet for the heater core, and the hose you detached. Reattach the hose, and fill the rest of the system. Park on an incline, or jack up the front of the truck as well. You just have an air in the system, and its not circulating out. Thats what the high idle is from too, since the coolant temp sensor is searching for coolant thats not there.
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#8

Try this: Drain the coolant. Take the upper heater hose off, and fill the system until water pours out of the outlet for the heater core, and the hose you detached. Reattach the hose, and fill the rest of the system. Park on an incline, or jack up the front of the truck as well. You just have an air in the system, and its not circulating out. Thats what the high idle is from too, since the coolant temp sensor is searching for coolant thats not there.
saved it to pass on later...
Last edited by dropzone; May 5, 2009 at 09:04 AM.
#9
If you raised the body and the radiator and are still using the engine's fan you will effect / lose air flow across the radiator. If you did not raise the radiator you are probably blocking radiator air flow. Solution: Raise radiator and install a high output electric cooling fan.
#10
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada

Try this: Drain the coolant. Take the upper heater hose off, and fill the system until water pours out of the outlet for the heater core, and the hose you detached. Reattach the hose, and fill the rest of the system. Park on an incline, or jack up the front of the truck as well. You just have an air in the system, and its not circulating out. Thats what the high idle is from too, since the coolant temp sensor is searching for coolant thats not there.
do it!
#11
If you raised the body and the radiator and are still using the engine's fan you will effect / lose air flow across the radiator. If you did not raise the radiator you are probably blocking radiator air flow. Solution: Raise radiator and install a high output electric cooling fan.
#12
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
i fixed the problem. i emptied the rad. took out the thermostat,put cover back on. filled rad, started the engine and ran it for about 10 mins and the weird idle was gone. after ten mins i shut off truck, put the thermostat back in and filled up the rad again and the problem was solved. thanks for all of the replys guys
#14
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From: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
ok lol. i still have to lift the box i broke 3 bolts on one side and the other one is like sccrewed so im gonna torch it off tommorow. and im too lazy to extend the shifter. i like the sporty look haha
Last edited by gary96360; May 5, 2009 at 09:22 PM.
#16
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
haha the throws on my dodge were superlong more than on a dump truck. im just gonna bend it forward or just relocate the shifter boot or plate. im just driving with no shifter boot or plate lol. that stupid lift took me like 4 times longer than i had imagined.
Last edited by gary96360; May 5, 2009 at 09:41 PM.
#18
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
i got soaked the other night changing the rad. at least u got help i did mine alone. its been like 10 hrs total. but i spent so much time cuz of the overheating problem.


damn found on road dead 6 inch suspension and 3 body in front on 35's


damn found on road dead 6 inch suspension and 3 body in front on 35's
Last edited by gary96360; May 5, 2009 at 10:33 PM.
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