Howdy. Im picking up a "new" engine for my 94 4rnr. PO said it "is a little noisy". He said that it is not from the top end though. I'm thinking rod bearings so, while the engine is out of the truck I'd like to put rod and mains in it. The heads were supposedly redone recently (main reason Im getting the engine) so I'm not worried about that. Im also planning on doing an oil pump @ the same time. Anything special about doing bottom end work on a yota 3.0? Thanks for the help guys

 

the oil pump on this engine is bullet proof. Ive never heard of one going bad/wearing out over time.

any bottom end problems have been from
1) leaking oil = no oil = burn it up
2) dont change the oil = molasses no pump can pump (see 1)
3) coolant in oil from bad HG = eat the bearings up

if your on a budget id skip the expensive oil pump replacement.

 

My wallet appreciates your advice on the oil pump! Do I need to get new rod bolts etc as well? I redid the bottom end on my bmw w/ no issues so Im hoping this goes as smoothly

 

i did not use new rod bolts. Only bolts you typically replace when doing a rebuild on a 3vze is the head bolts.

 

you dont have to get new bolts but if you do it right your spose to usually when you change anything or do any rebuilds your suppose to get new gaskets bolts an everything but you dont have to

 

Already have a headset, bolts t-belt, tensioner etc. Need to get bearings (rod and main) oil pan gasket and crank seals. Possibly a dumb question.... Do I have to pull the trans to get the engine out or can I get the engine out w/out messing w/ the trans? Thanks for the help so far! I'm really looking forward to driving my 4rnr again. Its been over a year!

 

There are a TON off good threads on this subject; here are a few:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-ghost-108156/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...perate-123651/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...et-job-104934/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...w-going-88538/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-120824/

 

Make sure you measure the oil clearance on the bearings to make sure you get the right size. Also, if the crank is scored, or doesn't meet the specs, you might need to have it machined.

 

I think we are getting the engine on weds, so the fun will begin then. Until then more reading and research.

 

The bolts for the main bearing caps on the 3VZE are torque to yield, just like the head bolts. (Not really caps, one big cast piece of iron down there shaped like a ladder, what is the correct term for that part?)

Replace them, do not re-use them. Not sure on the rod bolts, but I would look in the FSM for info, and replace if specified.

The FSM has very good instructions on how to measure the clearances on the oil pump. If the pump measures in spec, there is absolutely no reason to replace it, just put a new front main seal in it and call it good. The pump is a very robust design, and very simple. It is a gear that is driven off a lobe feature on the crank.

If you are tearing it down, make sure you replace the knock sensor pigtail that goes under the intake manifold, unless it is brand new from when the heads were replaced. That jumper is very brittle and having to pull the intake immediately after a rebuild is a pain.

Mike