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you've got me...

where was it? is this off your 95 3.0?

 

It was mounted under the cruise control actuator and Toyota calls it a resistor. 95 3.slow. I think it might have something to do with the ignition?

 

If it's from your 95 and they use an electric cruise actuator as opposed to a vacuum actuator then it might be a resitor pack to control the actuator.

Does your cruise work without it?

 

definitely some sort of power resistor.

 

My cruise is vacuum operated. I don't think it has anything to do with the cruise.

 

just spitballin, but it might be a thingy that makes sure the circuit maintains the right amount of volts / power / ohms (i have no idea which). I have a 22re non-cruise control so i don't know

 

Resistor for the daytime running lights (Canada only)

 

You're thinking power regulator. And it would have to be HUGE to generate that amount of heat. Good guess though. I like the DRL ballast resistor idea.

 

This is correct. I have been looking into removing my daytime running lights, and removing this and connecting the lights directly to the chassis will be one of the steps I take. The second will be to cut the wire connecting the headlight ground to the Juction Box No. 1 "A" relay (Canada only).

Strangely enough, it doesn't get as hot as that warning might have you believe. I just mounted my own relay and fuse box over it containing all my offroad lighting circuits, and the only thing heating them is the heat from the exhaust manifold.

 

In toyota parts cat it is called "Dim Dip Lamp Resistor assy" and the part number is
82690-35020 $112.90

 

It looks like it should have a cover, like something to do with ignition, cause i removed my cruise control and didn't see anything like that what so ever.

 

To all of those that replied, THANK YOU.

 

Interesting, your DRL's must be different than mine.

When my DRL's are active, my headlights and taillights are on, and at full intesity.

I'm thinking with that resistor pack your headlights might be on at a reduced intensity?

 

Ha, yeah it looked like a ballast resistor for HIDs, but Its a DRL thingy!!!

By the way, the infinity M45 has muffler bearings (they have a valve on the pass side exhaust that opens when above 4500RPMs) and so does a dodge, I think its used as the same thing, and there was a ford, dont remember which, that had headlight fluid (needed the water in the washer fluid as a conductor)

 

Are you sure your resistor isn't active? You should be able to see a difference between the 'OFF' or 'TAIL' setting and the 'HEAD' setting on your light control switch.


There are two connections between your headlights and your chassis ground. One, through the resistor, and another through a relay in your junction box beside the clutch petal (manual). When your DRLs are on, the relay is open, meaning the ground circuit is completed through the resistor dimming your headlights. When you turn your light control switch turns to the head setting the relay closes and completes the second ground. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, therefor, lights engage at full strength.


Also, I have changed my reasoning on how to disable my DRLs. The simple method is still the best. Simply disconnect the power (#2 harness position, black and orange wire) to the DRL relay and voila. Then you can remove the above mentioned resistor, if you so desire the extra room or lowered weight.

 

I have a sense of humour but I find it annoying when I am trying to get some information/help on here and the thread gets loaded up with a bunch of useless crap. Not to mention seeing that someone has replied and you might have an answer, only to find some remark from someone who has too much time on their hands.

Yes that is a term paper it is sitting on. It's double spaced because the prof. specified he would like it written that way.

The fact that I'm also busy writing term papers might be another reason I get angry having to sift through the useless replies from people who have nothing better to do than waste their time and mine.

End of rant and the end of my involvement in this thread.

 

I agree with you. This thread is 2 pages with about 1/2 a page of good info.

I think it's because most of the respondants are about 16 and don't have any good info to provide.

 

Mines a different year with no resistor pack.

 

Ok guys, all Off topic posts have been removed, per the OP's request. Lets try to keep this thing on topic.

Neo, also understand this is the web, and someone out there is going to give you a light hearted poke in the ribs. Take it all in stride, and learn from the advice given to you by others regarding the resistor.