After looking at the oil pan, it looks as though either the diff has to be dropped or the motor raised to get a new gasket in there...unless I'm wrong!

It's not that bad at the moment but is definately leaking a bit. If I clean all the oil off, could I just run some kinda of sealer around the pan until I have a chance to replace the gasket?

 

Yea you have to take something out. I forget what, i believe its in the FSM.

 

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/118oilpump.pdf i know it says oil pump but it should have everything you need to see

 

FWIW, do not use a gasket. Do yourself a favor, and go get a tube of FIPG from Toyota. Its a few $$ more, but WELL worth it. 22RE engines did NOT come with a gasket from the factory, and as such are not set up for it. Cork gaskets and rubber gaskets are bad ideas.

Clean surfaces and a moderate coating of FIPG will ensure no leaks.

 

Just to clarify for the OP, he means Rear Main seal and Front Main Seal. Oddly enough the rear (which is much harder to replace vs the front) leaks more often than the front.

You can cheaply replace the oil pump O-ring. But it's usually not a culprit of an oil leak either.

The half moon plug he speaks of sits between the head and the valve cover, very common oil leak area, front and rear. If it is leaking, take them out, clean them up good (or buy new ones), and the surface on the head.. goop the RTV, and let it cure before you fire up the motor.

The valve cover seal is such a bastard sometimes. Especially the silicone variety, they never hold themselves good in the cover when you're positioning it on the head and can fold or fall out. The covers position on the head itself can cause a seal to hang over the heads lip...allowing oil to escape.

The front cover can leak especially where the head meets the cover and the block. People/mechanics often forget to put RTV at this joint. The fan makes any front-engine leaks worse by blowing the oil everywhere.







As for the pan, you gotta drop the differential and dont use a cork gasket. Take the pann off, flatten it (the holes) if they arent flat already (over tightening the holes after using a cork gasket can cause them to bend)

FIPG or Make-a-Gasket in the tube from an autoparts store, or simple RTV work fine. This is the one area where being overly generous with the goo is best. Follow the directions on the RTV tube, they actually work.

goodluck

 

Yeah, youll have to drop the ifs.
Its not a big deal, its 3 bolts. Make sure you have a jack under the diff and slowly let it down, from there on it should be easy.

 

and be careful not to tear your CV boots.

 

hmm, i never though about that.. lucky mine were new so the rubber may have been more forgiving

 

I just want to chime in my agreement with yotaforrunna. Gravity is not helping you; every leak ends up dripping off the pan. The only way to actually find a leak is to get that engine clean enough to eat from and then run it. Some with sharper eyes than mine think they can just wipe it off, but I think you need to use a can of engine cleaner and hose (with a few rags and and old toothbrush).

For all you know it's leaking from the valve cover gasket.

 

and some brake cleaner... that stuff works wonder on metal infested oil parts.

 

Thanks guys, just to clarify, it's a V6

 

I Agree FIPG IS Great Stuff I have never had a leak while using this at work

 

Either that or disconnect the front motor mounts jack it by the transmission you should have enough room to work to pull the oil pan.

 

I wouldn't suggest the FSM "raise engine w/jack method" because I tried it, and it's hell! FFS, it doesn't even work! I had to finally drop the differential because no way in hell does the oil-pan twist out of that spot, and imagine trying to fit it back in with sticky gasket surface, trying not to mess it up and get dirt on it etc.!

Raise the wheels and put jacks under the frame, behind/in-front of sway-bar mounts etc.

Take out the 4 bolts that hold the cross-member up, and the front mounting bolt for the differential, and the 4 bolts for the sway-bar mounts, then with a Jack under the diff, take out the 2 bolts that hold the differential to the frame, then lower the diff till it hangs as low as it can go.

Then you have enough room to drop the pan out from bottom/rear, and to replace it easily without feng-shui'ing the oil-pan through the spaces between frame/differential/Relay rod etc.

Also eliminates the need to un-bolt the oil-pickup before getting pan out, you just have to angle it to take it out, and opposite for installation.

I just did all this, without noticing my bolt holes were all slightly bent inwards/upwards, and didn't apply enough of the Form-A-Gasket, so it started *bleeding* out of 6-7 spots around the pan when I went to warm up the truck the next morning. I've gotten the Toyota FIPG instead and am working on flattening the surfaces of the holes.

At least this time around I was able to get the pan off/out in 15 minutes, instead of the day and a half it took me the first time. This is on my '86 22r IFS 4wd Std. Cab Truck

 

Bent bolt holes is a sign that someone previously used a cork or similar gasket on the oil pan. Otherwise, there'd have been nowhere for the metal around the bolt hole to go when tightening.

Thanks for the information. I'm sure others will appreciate it. (no, not kidding)

 

im going to be doing this sometime in the next few weeks.... my motor runs great but it leaks oil from almost every seal possible

 

RE: The valve cover seal is such a bastard sometimes. Especially the silicone variety, they never hold themselves good in the cover when you're positioning it on the head and can fold or fall out. The covers position on the head itself can cause a seal to hang over the heads lip...allowing oil to escape

The best way to cure that is some spray tack adhesive gasket stuff I forget what its called but you used it on paper gaskets so they stay in place. It works on the valve cover gasket too.

FastLane
'88 22re 4x4 5spd. pickup 55K miles. 15" black cragar soft 8 w/ toyo open country a/t 265/75/15. leather buckets, and '04 tacoma center console

'06 Tacoma Double Cab 4x4 TRD Sport, Bilstein 5100s set at 1.75" lift, rear airbags,265/70/17 Toyo Open Country A/Ts, TRD exhaust, Clarion DVD

 

I'm curious what make the 22re different than the 22r to not require a formed gasket (cork or other) like the 22r calls for? I know the FIPG is what is called for on the 22re, but it's all the same bottom end, right?

 

In model year 1985, T went to FIPG only instead of a gasket. I assume, but do not have confirmation, that this goes for both 22RE AND 22R engines. Anyone know for sure??