So I got about $600 to spend on a locker (or tru trac) on my '94 4runner(V6)
Do I do a locker in front or rear?
Full locker in rear or tru trac in front?
On craigs list a dude is selling a rear axle ass. out of a '97 runner with e-locker, wiring and dash switch for $500 bucks. How much fab to match that up with my '94? I could swap my gears into that locking diff? Give me your 2 cents on how to blow my pay checks.

 

Here's what you would have to do to your housing to make the elocker work:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

Your gears will work in the elocker unless you have the factory 4.88's.

Note that if you do a full carrier locker (ARB, Detroit, Trutrac) you'll have to setup the gears - a task better left to professional IMHO

 

You could swap the complete axle and housing into the rear of your truck, but you'd still have to remove the diff and regear it. Might as well get some 5.29's while you're going there.

Selectable in the rear for sure.

For the front, it depends on what you like, and where you like to 'wheel.

In any case, I'd regear at the same time.

 

I'd go the other way, personally. Selectable up front, so you use it only when needed and non selectable in the rear (selectable rear is the best option). It would keep stress off the front end components when not needed.

 

If you actually plan on off roading the truck, then a locker is the way to go.

I'd do an auto locker, like Lock Right. You're in Arizona, so I assume you'll never see snow on roads (thus no on-road 4wd use) so you can choose a cheap locker for front, rear or both without. The rear locker is (obviously) going to be most noticeable on road (front diff taken out of the equation in 2wd). But you're going to need to install manual hubs for as not to wear out the locker ($50-100/set).

I have a rear locker and quite honestly its not the deal people may it out to be when they're repeating info from their neighbour's dog's former owner's uncle. To get into trouble on road with a non-selectable locker, you really have to be driving like a high-schooler leaving grad the day after he got his license. I don't notice mine daily driving 25 mi. through a city of 3 million in rain, snow or at times even on ice. I'm not your average nails-for-breakfast offroader, I value the comfort of the 4Runner. I don't feel it detracts from the drive-ability of the vehicle. Read my "Aussie locker review" in my sig line.

Ask TC (he posted above) if a front or rear is more effective, I think he once said front, but this is a much debated topic. I only have the rear. For $600, you could actually buy two auto lockers, which would be almost too much of an improvement all at once (ie: you'll never learn to take advantage of the full potential of one locker).

 

I drive my truck everyday on the street( I wish I did not have to) and then wheel it once to twice a week in sand, medium to hard trails, and rocks. I had a nissan frontier with a loc rite in the rear, and it was not too bad. So for the front I could get a loc rite and just get those mile marker hubs and just keep them un locked on the street. and for the rear I just man up and deal with the clicking and chipping tires.
It sounds like going with the rear axle from CL will get expensive fast.

 

Also where did you order your Aussie Locker from?

 

http://www.aussielocker.com/make.php.../6e0a/20/.html

That locker is easy to install and once you get used to it (only took a couple of days) you'll forget it's even back there. The off road gains are huge over the stock open diffs and since there aren't any brake lines or wires or anything then there isn't any upkeep other than changing the diff fluid on a regular basis.

If you're looking to spend 600$ on a locker then my advice is to drop 275$ (shipping and all that) on one Aussie for the rear and save the other 325$ for rock armor or something else.

 

+1 to everything Junkers88 just said. You will be very happy with an aussie in the rear, like everyone said, I hardly ever notice mine and the offroad improvement is phenomenal.

 

but why should he swap out his v6 third for a 4cyl? if he does that then hes gotta get the driveshaft flange too...

just get a lockrite and be done with it...
from what ive heard its comparable to the aussie...

 

Oh good point. I neglected to mention that the Aussie doesn't come in a V6 application.

 

And from the research I've done, the only major difference between the Aussie, and the Lockright, is the Aussie is a lil quieter than the Lockright. I'll be buying a Lockright for my rig when I get back to Wa.

 

The Aussie is preferred as it is smoother- not as much jerking, lurching etc. I don't think the level of noise on either is enough that anyone cares too much.

They both seemed pretty close though.

 

I had forgotten that, Matt....but I've read that with the auto trans, the Lockright isn't as jerky as with a manual tranny.

 

That's true for all automatic lockers. My locker never acts up when I simulate and the power delivery of an automatic transmission by riding the clutch.

 

Yes, IMHO, the front IS more effective, but there are more downsides to a front locker too.

The reason I say the front is more effective is because when you need a locker most is when you're going uphill and the front is unweighted then. Add to this the limited travel of the IFS and lifting a front wheel is much more common than lifting a rear wheel.

 

thanks everyone for your input! Looks like i will go with the loc rite for the front with mile marker hubs. BTW I cant run a 31" spare anymore with a locker huh? Since I have 33" tires. How is everyone fitting a 33x10.5 underneath? Custom rear bumper set up?