Well I purchased my 2002 3.4 with 85,000miles today from Rancho Toyota Truck for $1585 and that was with everything and a few otherthings i needed. I am very happy.

I will be doing this job along with me1ambose which has alot more exp. in auto's then I do. Hopefully this will be fun

Correct me where I am wrong... But here is a list I have gathered of what I should do...this list will grow... Intel has been gathered from rancho toy truck, Elvota, mt goat, jason4x4, andy zooks, and robd. Please feel free to help guide me

1.) Modify my crossover exhaust "get single wall pre-2000 x-over with flex netween the two and mod ify" (Jason4x4) DONE
a. rap xover pipe DONE
2.) change oil siphen " put 3.0 on 3.4) DONE
3.) Change my oil pan "put 3.0 oil pan on 3.4 motor". DONE
A. Swap 3.4 oil sending unit out with 3.0.... HAD TO ORDER NEW ONE
4.) dip stick modes are DONE
5.) Install flywheel and torque converter DONE (also installed new seal on tranny shaft)
6.) install motor mounts DONE
7.) Rotate 3.4 fuel line from ds to ps DONE
8.) Install 3.0 AC hook up lines on 3.4 ac pump. DONE
9.) New lines for power steering
10.) INSTALL MOTOR DONE
11.) Modify drop pipe to fit new crossover flange.
12.) EVAP 02 is big box up front 92 is on tank "which should I use"....Mmm?
13.) Cruise Control move to PS
14.) Install new Intake on PS
15.)Download documenation on wiring changes. "2002 3.4 auto to a 1992 3.0 auto" This is gonna be a Pain I can see how much fun Elvota had....
a. get $10 day pass to wiring diag at toyota.com
16.) new battery holder on DS behind over flow DONE
a. search "Big Three Upgrade"
17.) Hoses NAPA 7571 (lower raditor hose) (page 6 of Elvota's 3.0 to 3.4) Napa 10744 (rear coolant line) NAPA 7559 (upper raditor hose)
18.) Use 3.4 power steering pump (Go to Elvota 3.0 to 3.4 page 4 Good hose job)
19.) install 2" body lift or cut hole in hood with scoop. ?????
20.) install hood last
21.) Tach Fix? leave wires un hooked to prevent ruining my tach gauge
?'s "mt_goat page 2"

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/
There's some good info, also
www.offroadsolutions.com

ORS is no longer selling stuff, but their tech info is still up on their site.

I'm in process of this as well, though I got an ORS kit so I can't help you out on the wiring...other than to say the best way to do it yourself is get the wiring diagrams from both vehicles and have some advil on hand.

for the crossover, you'd have to modify the 3.4's corssover, the 3.0 wouldn't work any way that I could imagine.
The way I'm going is Downey headers, just get the ones for the 3.4 without egr. As gaskets go, just get some of the Toyota stuff for your oil pan gasket, get oil change stuff while you're at it. There's lots of little stuff, check out the links and research.

By the way, have fun!

 

http://www.andrewzook.com/content/view/22/48/

 

dang!!! 1585??? how come i dont live on the west coast??? : (

 

We picked up new 3.4 and appears Jonathan at Rancho Toyota Truck Delivered everything just has he said he would. And parts he didn't have he had bought brand new ones and put in package.. Again very happy with the service and product.

With only a few hours left in the day Me1ambrose and I pulled oil pan, siphen, and oil sending unit off the 3.0 and installed on 3.4. We also drilled (V bit) the drill new dip stick hole and taped (1/4"NPT) old hole and pluged it.

The plan is to follow where others have led, I have been mass reading all the threads under 3.4 swaps to gain insight. However If one of you experts happen to read the game plan at begining of this thread and see an error let me know please.

 

Well I thought I would show a few pictures of my new motor and even an action shot of me1ambrose... We are using a huge shop (CAT SHOP) at my work since the sawmill is shutdown this week. All over head hoist and everything its pretty sweet but with sawmill coming back online next week my project will have to be moved to the tarpped over canapy at my home...

Anyways here r some pics...

The one picture is the dipstick hole we drilled in about 5min. first with pilot hole of 3/16" AND THEN A #V drill bit and a numatic right angle drill... As Elvota had suggested in his swap thread. This was a lot easier then we thought it would be.

As of right now the plan is to use the 3.4 p/s, alternator, a/c, and starter. If you guys see a problem with this let me know.

 

I wish I could work in a huge shop like that.

Looks good man. So that $15XX spent came with the ECU and all the wires? sweet.

 

I used all of those from the 3.4 with no worries.

Just don't remove your 3.0 alternator harness.

 

Tubbyfatty I only have this shop this week but if our sawmill is down any longer I am moving my truck up there to finish job... We have everything there full machine shop everything. The only thing is I want to do my truck there but I also want to go back to work... Its a catch 22!! I find out today if we are going to be laid off any longer... Oh and yes it came with all wiring which Jonathan at Rancho TOy Truck was kind enough to not cut the wires he supplied both sides of the connectors so I could splice on other side of connector if need be. Rancho did a real clean job on engine and since my donor truck fan Shroud was destroyed Rancho through in a brand new one. Very happy with there prices and product and he has a lot of experiance I took lots of pictures of his 3.4 swap.

Robd thanks I was hoping I could use all my new stuff.

I really didn't want to put a 2" body lift on my truck so I am deciding if I want to do a real low profile scoop or if I want to build 2" lift at work. Mmmm

 

You can use the 3.4 AC compressor, but you need to swap the top of the 3.0 compressor over to the newer one so the old R 12 hoses will attach. You'll probably want to convert to R 134 at that point.

 

This thread will probably get moved to the 3.4 swap section someday. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/

 

How do I move this over to the 3.4 swap forum.... I found that forum after I already started it here... Ops!

 

You can't do it, one of the mods will do it for you when they notice it.

 

Well today me1ambrose put in a longer day then I did but anyway we got the engine mounts off the 3.0 on to the 3.4. The oil dip stick is complete and mounted, Fuel line is rerouted to Passenger side, and Crossover pipe is put together and welded about 65%, tomorrow I am cutting off the double pipe collector and fabing up a single collector. This will give me more room as well I saw few guys had problems in this area and had to BFH their firewall, dont get me wrong this may be my backup plan as well.. HA ha I hope it fits. Here are a few pictures I followed how jason4x4 did his crossover. If you want more details got to following link. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...r-pipe-138902/ And the price so far for me to make is about $75 for the wrap alone(I might take this back and get smaller roll, $3.00 for coupler, and another $15 for stuff I am suppose to spray over the heat shiled rap. Oh and that is me Millwrightbrian cutting https://www.yotatech.com/forums/imag...enchainsaw.gif on the crossover and me1ambrose "joe" welding it up.

Crossover Notes:
1 After 2001 they are all double wall and only good for the flanges. cut flanges off pipe and save.
2 Obtain old crossover pre-2001, rancho toy truck gave me one for free.. kick azz.
3 Follow jason4x4 thread... Its pretty simple! and he did good job of step by step procedure.
Best tools: (basic fab tools)
- Die grinder with cut blade and sanding wheel
- Grinder with cut off wheel and grinding wheel
- Tourch
- Wire feed welder
- and what would have been nice is a sawzall that some body forgot to bring to the shop.

 

I'm curious what you all do about the braking power once this swap's been done?

Just curious as I always hear every so often about how the front rotors eventually will warp, and it seems the rule of more power should equal more stopping would apply??

*Any links to brake upgrades for the 2nd Gen 4Runners or Trucks would be appreciated.

 

I've read about every post I could find on the 3.4 swap and have never heard a thing about brake problems. I haven't noticed any ill effects since my swap.

 

Its pretty damn close to the same weight. There shouldnt be a problem.

 

There is one extra risk I have noticed with a 3.4 swap...the risk of speeding tickets on the freeway.

 

Tomorrow we are putting my NEW 3.4 motor in... if you think of something i need to do before I put motor in let me know. Today we finished the crossover pipe with a single collector type design. The pipe was painted with heat resistant paint rapped and the wrapping was treated for heat as well.
Anyone that is thinking about doing this crossover mod should seriously think about headers cause by doing it right it cost me more then I thought it would. I returned the 50' ($75) roll and got a 15' ($25) roll of rap which is all it needs, bought little straps for the rap ($20), heat treatment paint for the rap ($20), little metal coupler ($4), collector ($8), and new flanges for bottom drop pipe was ($10), plus the factory toy muffler gasket was ($12.80 each) and the price of doing the mod myself PRICELESS... Oh and dont forget the price of muffler bearings went up this year... all jokes aside I spent about $100 on this little puppy but she does look sweet and it is done right. Here are a few picks of my hi flow crossover.... Ha I also thru in a picture of motor hanging over truck waiting till tomorrow when we get exhaust gaskets for yota. Custom battery tray is installed on driver side as well.
Tomorrow the plan is to put on crossover, do power steering hose mods, put 3.0 ac pump top on 3.4 ac pump, install my 3.0 oil sending unit. THEN WE ARE PUTTING MOTOR IN

I have a list at the begin of this thread of list of to do that I keep updated. Main goal is to make sure everything is done before motor goes in while I got use of nice hoist and shop.

 

Some of us have had problems with the crossover wrap, it lets the metal get too hot. I'm having mine ceramic coated as we speak after it cracked from getting too hot: