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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

idler arm rebuild somehow gone wrong. please share words of advice. =\

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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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xXbrutalXcoreXx's Avatar
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Angry idler arm rebuild somehow gone wrong. please share words of advice. =\

ok. so in the process of replacing the bushings in my idler arm today i managed (no idea how) to flatten some of the threads over shown here in the picture. My question is wtf do i do now? do i have to buy a whole new idler arm? or maybe somehow cutting new threads or something? any ideas are greatly appreciated. thanks.

here's the pic:
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 09:00 PM
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
That could happen from smashing the end of it with a hammer. Probly did it when you were taking it apart.

You might try re-cutting the threads with a die. Someone with more experience than me needs to comment.

Also to prevent that from happening in the future you can thread a nut onto the studs loosley. Then smack the nut with the hammer to break it loose. That should protect the threads from gettin beat.

Last edited by toylocost; Jan 6, 2009 at 09:01 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 09:59 PM
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Jay351's Avatar
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
It looks pretty bad. I would go to the junkyard and rob one from a junker.

Next time, buy a tierod puller. They are like $25 and make removing these things a peice of cake. I learned by doing the same damn thing with a stuck tierod end..
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 07:44 AM
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i believe i am going to try and get the threads recut. if not i will probably get a replacement idler arm from napa seeing as how there are no yota yards around where i live. :/ i was following the idler arm rebuild guide that you made Jay (which was great btw) and didnt realize that i had stripped the damn threads on the idler arm until i had all the bushings replaced, the idler arm back together and on the truck, and was trying to replace the castle nut. :/

does anyone have any experience with this product or similar?
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...Idler+Arm+Assy
it seems like a crazy good price and from the pictures seems to be decent quality.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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Use a die on in, it should be ok. Those threads on the end don't do the holding anyway. Use oil when running the die into it, and back off a half turn for every full turn forward.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 08:51 AM
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When I rebuilt mine a year ago,, I just removed the idler arm from the frame, and dissassambled the bushings on the vehicle without removing it from the relay rod. Well to late now. I am going to agree with mt goat on this one.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 02:57 PM
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Matt16's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Zinek
When I rebuilt mine a year ago,, I just removed the idler arm from the frame, and dissassambled the bushings on the vehicle without removing it from the relay rod. Well to late now. I am going to agree with mt goat on this one.
That's what I do as well. I tried, but could free the idler stud from the relay rod. Ended up cutting it off when I replaced it.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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ok just to throw it out there....
does anyone happen to know the size and thread pitch of the bolt i am talking about?
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 09:20 PM
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so it turns out that i dont have a die big enough to fit the idler arm. :[ so i am going to take the arm to an auto repair shop to see if they have something to suit my needs. wish me luck!
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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From: Logan, Ut
There are tools called thread files I think is what they are called and they work great for stuff like this. I've fixed lots of threads on cv axles this way.
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 07:51 AM
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thanks boosted! i think i am going to order a thread file right now. do you think the thread pitch for the file is .75mm? hopefully?
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 08:02 AM
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corax's Avatar
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From: PDX
you could also try cleaning up the threads by hand with a small triangular file - I've had good luck with that in the past (in adition to the thread file)
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