I would appreciate any input on were to buy and what brand are good for a 94 4x4 22re. FRONT BEARINGS IFS

 

Front, rear??

I bought mine from marlin.

 

duh, sorry about that its late
I need them for the front.
thanks

 

It looks like Marlin only sells the solid kit bearings. Unless they are the same for the IFS. But I doubt that.

 

Yea, im not sure about the ifs fronts. check toyota?

Koyo bearings is what are used, IIRC

 

I just did mine this past spring, and my family has trusted Timkin for a long time.

 

when you do this, please do a writeup like your last one, im gonna be doing this come spring, and it would be nice to have another of your write-ups...

 

I basically followed the parts store manual (Chilton IIRC) the cone washers were a trick, I didn't have a recommended brass drift so I used an old socket extension, and a BFH (big freaking hammer) and increased the hit strength with each blow until they came out, if you put a nut on the stud it will prevent the washer from becoming a projectile, and also help repair the threads if you get a little heavy handed.
I found it also helped to put the parts on a piece of printer paper in the order of removal for a quick reference on replacement, the grease helps theme stick.
Over all it was petty easy for just the bearings, when I did mine I was replacing the brake rotors, and figured if I was in that far i might as well do the bearings as long as I was in that far.

SO if you are going to wait until spring, gather your parts, check other parts in the neighborhood IE hubs, they will be apart anyway good time to replace suspect seals, and springs... Rotors, this will add a bit more time to the job, but if they need or will need to be changed soon, you already have the hubs torn most of the way apart, might as well plan on doing those at the same time.

I did this all in my garage with nothing but hand tools, when you pack the bearings when you think you have enough grease in there put a bit more in, keep the brake surfaces as clean as possible, but use plenty of brake cleaner and clean rags anyways. both sides including rotors took the better part of an afternoon, biggest pain was separating the rotors from the hubs, otherwise it was pretty easy.

 

sounds good!
What bearings did you buy and do you have a link to the store and parts number. A friend recommended OEM bearings from the dealer. Of course they are costly so I am wondering if there is an alternative bearing that is almost as good?
BTW-I will do a write up on the bearing job.

 

I don't know what brand my bearings were but I got them from advance. I replaced my inner/outer front ifs wheel bearings about three weeks ago. If there's anything else that needs to be addressed any time soon in that same area go ahead and do it. Brake rotors, pads, bearings, cvs, locking hubs. It's a pain in the butt to get the hubs off and pull the rotor and everything. Do it all once. And the actual wheel bearing nuts are huge. The biggest nut I could find was a 46mm, and while close, it wasn't big enough. I ended up getting in on tight with one corner at a time of a 2 inch socket, a pair of channel-locks, a hammer and a screwdriver. Also, when you tighten your wheel bearing nut(s) back up, tighten them enough that you can't make the wheel move in and out on the top and bottom, but they still roll well and aren't too tight. I had to do this three times before getting it right. Take your time and get it right the first time. As I said, pulling the locking hub and CV bolt to get to the wheel nut is not fun.

 

FYI, the wheel bearing nut and the lock/tension (whatever you choose to call it) nut is a 54mm, and there's a specific torque, losen, torque, then final torque of the lock nut sequence that's rather crusial to the bearing preload being set right; but all can be found in the FSM up in the stickies

it's not all that difficult of a job really; I tore mine apart and ended up replacing all the bearins, the inner seal, brake pads along with the anti-rattle springs, and completely rebuilding the locking hubs; here's a link to the thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ry-day-156896/

although not a write-up, I think it's got a few good pictures you can reffer to if you've never torn into the bearings and hubs before


btw, I used Timken bearings as well; got a discount on them through Miller Bearing at work

and like mentioned before, I also used a 3/8" drive ratchet extension on the studs to get the cone washers out; worked out good because I used a cheap, softer metal extention, so it destoyed the extension and didn't leave so much as a mark on the studs!