So I have an 86 SR5 4Runner that seems to be getting hot. I noticed this would only happen when going over the mountain passes last summer and took a long time for the temp to eventually get hot enough to raise a concern.

It has been getting wost and I am really concerned. Now when ever I go over 65 on the freeway, pushing heavy tires it gets so hot I pull over to avoid overheating. Each time I hear the radiator boiling, Eeek!

This also happens now even around town when ever I get on the gas a little too much for more than 2-3 minutes.

My 1st guess is that I need a new radiator since there is a super small microscopic crack on the top of the radiator that is not visible with the naked eye. When I pressure tested the radiator is noticed a very small amount of fluid coming out so I am sure there is a small crack there, sure!

So my question is: Could the small crack be causing the heat issue due to air getting into the radiator/coolant, or from steam escaping from there, or something like this. I am also looking for a nice aluminum radiator instead of a stock looking one. anyone know where I can find one that will fit.

 

The OEM rad should be up to the job if its in decent shape. Just have a mechanic weld (or braze) the crack up.

How's your coolant level?
Is your coolant in decent shape?
Any idea what shape your water pump and thermostat are in?

Before you condemn that radiator, find out what's wrong. My impression was that the stock cooling system was pretty good.

 

I'd say replace the rad

that crack's doing 2 things; 1) it's letting coolant out which is making you run low, therefore more than likely causing the overheating, and 2) it's not letting a little pressure build in the system; pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant; without that pressure, you're just mulitiplying the coolants tendancy to boil

or just have it repaired as Obama up there put it

 

I heard Obama tears can weld metal, too bad Obama never cries.


Other possible cooling problems:

• worn out fan clutch
• loose fan belt (fan belt turns the water pump and fan clutch, which in turn spins the fan
• hard water deposits in the cooling system

 

Only Chuck Norris can do that.

 

Sorry old boy, Chuck went out with the Republicans. Bad luck.

 

Take your radiator to a local radiator shop. $50-$60 later it will be clean, tested and good as new. Your biggest issue with overheating is that you don't want to blow the HG, so quit wasting time and get your radiator repaired pronto!



P.S. Obama may be the "President elect" but he still sucks and Chuck Norris would kick his ass...and I wish he would.

 

bahahaha, I'm with ya buddy

 

have the radiator checked and cleaned, and flushing the rest of the cooling system out probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.





someone needs to do something about the democrat
they're even talking about taking people's 401k's and other retirement plans and redistributing the wealth:
http://www.carolinajournal.com/artic...y.html?id=5081

 

I bought all new water lines and a new radiator and thermostat all installed. Then I took my wife camping for Christmas up north, and a boulder rolled down a hill on Interstate 17 and crushed the front of my 4Runner and a semi-truck.

 

my rad is rusty inside. the last owner didnt take care to change the coolant often. i have flushed it a couple of times. is it a good practice to use a rad that is rustyÉ

 

replace it, and use proper toyota coolant.

It seems to be that other types tend to increaset he amount of corrosion inside the cooling system..

 

See? That's what happens when you don't follow good advice.

Seriously, that's terrible about your truck. Got pictures?

 

On the boiling over at high elevations thing. You may need to get a new radiator cap to maintain higher pressure once you get a new radiator without cracks LOL. When you get to higher elevations water boils at a lower temp. When you shut down the the cooling system the heat soak from the hot spots on the head can easily boil the coolant. To prevent the boiling you need more pressure, more coolant to water ratio, or my personal favorite, Evan's waterless coolant. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...oolant-114994/

BTW if you go with the Evans waterless coolant the radiator cap won't matter, you can run a pressureless cooling system with it.

 

wow....another clogged radiator. Put a brand new one in before you "stress" the headgasket....but I'm afraid you probably already did that. If white smoke blows out the exhaust in 2 weeks or less then get a new gasket.

 

I found one after a lot of looking: https://www.yotatech.com/50547550-post514.html

 

I have that rad. My truck runs quite a bit cooler now