I am getting ready to put an e-locker in my '85, and my question is:

Has anybody made their own relay circuit, but for use with the stock switch (Off-On)?

I want to try to make it look as OEM as possible (in the cab) and use the Toyota switch, but try to avoid paying the $100 for the diff lock ECU.

All of the write-ups I have read, they use a DIY relays with a 3 way switch (On-Off-On), or the stock diff ECU with the stock switch (Off-On).

 

bump, i'd like to know too.

 

First of all, the circuits using relays don't use a 3 way switch but, a double pole single throw switch DPST (or a momentary switch....like a power window switch)...... in one position it completes a circuit then, when you throw the switch, it breaks that circuit and completes the other circuit (single throw). If the factory switch is a simple on/off switch, it won't work with that set up but, you might be able to use it (the factory switch) to actuate a double pole (DP) relay that'll then act as the DPST switch......a double pole relay has two sets of contacts.....normally open and normally closed. When the relay is actuated, it'll break the normally closed contacts and close the normally open contacts.....same as what the DPST switch would do. Did that make sense to you? (it's kind of hard to explain without actually showing you....sorry) If you know someone that's good with wiring, he (or she) would understand what I'm trying to say. All in all that adds more complexity to the process. I just have mine wired with two (DP) relays, a DPST switch and a red LED that lights up when the diff is locked......very simple and reliable.......as long as you hook up the vent and keep water out of it but, that's another story. Good luck, I hope I was helpful and didn't confuse you--------Hans

 

Thats it! Thanks!

So basically, I will just use this locker control circuit, but omit the SPDT "Control Switch" and replace it with a third SPDT relay (activated by the OEM locker switch).

 

Yeah, I think that should work.......I really had to think about that when I started typing and then, I thought " Holy cow, I hope I'm making sense" My buddy uses Toyota power window switches (momentary) on his lockers but, I didn't like how you have to keep pushing it till it locks. If you're installing a rear locker, I would consider installing another switch to interupt power to the whole shebang so, you don't accidentally engage the locker going 75mph down the highway! Let us know how that works out!----------Hans

 

I just finished mine recently, using a dual SPDT relay scheme that is well documented around here. An illuminated master power switch, located near the E-Brake, locks the system out until I want to use it. A spare rear-window switch gave me the momentary on-off-on rocker that I wanted to use. It fits nicely in the panel knock-out above my stereo, and I put a blue ON indicator next to it. You hold the switch in the position you want for about one second, and the motor goes there. Sometimes you have to move the vehicle slightly before it engages, and then the light comes on. This is the best mod I've done to the truck!

 

Yep, I plan to add a relay activated by the "4WD" dash light, so that power is available only when I am in 4-High or 4-Low.

 

Just wondering if this method worked...

Anyone know?

 

I know it has been a while, but I wanted to post what I did 3 years ago, to add to the many options for the e-Locker retrofit. My main goals for this project were:

1) For it to be simple to operate and reliable.
2) Easy to trouble shoot.
3) In the cab, for it to look very clean, as if Toyota originally offered this on these trucks.
4) To prevent it from accidentally engaging while driving around in 2WD.

I used a three relay system to control the locker off/on, and a fourth relay to switch on a red LED to indicate that the motor is in transition (on). And the green LED indicates that the locker is fully engaged.

I used the Hella relay block, with Hella relays. This emulates the OE Diff Lock Controller, and allowed me to use a Toyota “RR Diff Lock” switch.

The two LED’s are next to the switch. I hit them with a couple of coats of that “Translucent Black” spray paint that kids use to black out their taillights, so that these were not too noticeable unless lit.

 

I created a “4WD” hot bus that only activates with the truck in 4lo or 4hi. I did this by adding a 60A fusible link where that was intended for the Diesel stuff. From this link, I ran power through a 75A power relay, which is activated by the T-Case switch for the “4WD” dash indicator light.

 

I just wanted to thank you for this wiring diagram... i know this is a pretty old topic, but i couldn't find it anywhere else... I too wanted to use the stock factory switch, and i couldn't find a write up anywhere else. I tried to follow your directions but in my own stupidity i mixed up my Lock Limit Switch wires and burned up my motor because the motor stayed on even after it moved into locking position. It was a dumb mistake on my part...

I also took the liberty of slightly modifying your diagram to give people a better idea of how the wiring inside the motor worked and what the wire colors are...


i just wanted to thank you for actually taking the time to come back and tell us how you did it!