Anyone else breaking CVs with Toytech OME 3" Lift
#1
Anyone else breaking CVs with Toytech OME 3" Lift
2 times "really wheeling" and 2 broken CV's. The first CV breakage I chalked up to driver error and old CV's. See explaination here https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/w...-break-138059/ . I now have new CV's installed and a lesson learned from last experience (no hard turns with heavy flex/torque).
I was out wheeling this weekend and I really was not doing anything I feel is extreme compared to some on this board, when POP. This time I was tracking straight up a slightly slick hill with slick roots up it and was experimenting with the different 4wd modes. It broke on my 3rd or 4th pass. Anyways, I didn't take pictures, but it really was not a very tough obstacle and I can't see where I was putting more than accepible levels of strain on the truck.
I have the Toytech OME3 Run lift http://www.toyteclifts.com/images/pr...Runner-640.jpg . This is 881 up front and a small (3/4") top plate spacer. I am thinking the small top plate spacers might have to go, yet I really like the look of the level lift. Is any one else wheeling the Toytech OME3 Run Lift hard and not breaking CV's?
After the first break I installed lifetime guaranteed CV's so it really isn't a huge deal, but if I wanted to fix something after everytime wheeling, I would drive a jeep.
I was out wheeling this weekend and I really was not doing anything I feel is extreme compared to some on this board, when POP. This time I was tracking straight up a slightly slick hill with slick roots up it and was experimenting with the different 4wd modes. It broke on my 3rd or 4th pass. Anyways, I didn't take pictures, but it really was not a very tough obstacle and I can't see where I was putting more than accepible levels of strain on the truck.
I have the Toytech OME3 Run lift http://www.toyteclifts.com/images/pr...Runner-640.jpg . This is 881 up front and a small (3/4") top plate spacer. I am thinking the small top plate spacers might have to go, yet I really like the look of the level lift. Is any one else wheeling the Toytech OME3 Run Lift hard and not breaking CV's?
After the first break I installed lifetime guaranteed CV's so it really isn't a huge deal, but if I wanted to fix something after everytime wheeling, I would drive a jeep.
#2
Ugh, that does suck.
3" is max in the lift department, I'd drop down to 2" and add a 1" body lift.
Theres a possibility the CV's you replaced the OEM ones are not up to standard.
3" is max in the lift department, I'd drop down to 2" and add a 1" body lift.
Theres a possibility the CV's you replaced the OEM ones are not up to standard.
#3
Also what shocks are you running? There was alot of concern of adding a top out if running the OME comforts and the tundra coils because of over extension. Though you have OME the same issue may apply.
#4
Full Relevant Specs:
Tokico Trekmaster Shocks
Toytech OME3 Run Lift (881+ 3/4" top plate spacer/890)
Toytech 1" Diff Drop
Toytech Drop Bracket
285/75/16 MTZ on LC wheels
New Budbuilt skid and belly pan + 99+ fat lip bumper adding weight to front end
The aftermarket CV's were purchased at Advanced Auto
Tokico Trekmaster Shocks
Toytech OME3 Run Lift (881+ 3/4" top plate spacer/890)
Toytech 1" Diff Drop
Toytech Drop Bracket
285/75/16 MTZ on LC wheels
New Budbuilt skid and belly pan + 99+ fat lip bumper adding weight to front end
The aftermarket CV's were purchased at Advanced Auto
Last edited by Goin; May 12, 2008 at 06:26 PM. Reason: more specs
#5
2 inches is max in the lift dept with cv's
anything taller will snap them all the time...and 2 inches is still stretching it
SC4runner has it right. 2 inch and 1 inch body
or solid front axle and ditch the stock setup entirely
anything taller will snap them all the time...and 2 inches is still stretching it
SC4runner has it right. 2 inch and 1 inch body
or solid front axle and ditch the stock setup entirely
Last edited by BigBallsMcFalls; May 12, 2008 at 06:39 PM.
#6
Adding a front diff. drop spacer (if not already doing so) may help in this situation:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml
Might just lower the CV joint angles that little bit to make them last longer.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml
Might just lower the CV joint angles that little bit to make them last longer.
#7
Don’t feel bad, it happens. I don’t attribute my breakage to my set-up, a widely popular one with many users to back it. It seems that under certain conditions the angle becomes too severe and pressure too great to give any further. Sooner or later they all die.
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#8
hmm, i have put mine thro its paces pretty well and havent had this happen, knock on wood, andi have the top out spacers and same lift. i dont understand that 
Edit: Broke it yesterday dam it!!!!!!!!

Edit: Broke it yesterday dam it!!!!!!!!
Last edited by Dare44; Jul 15, 2008 at 05:46 PM.
#9
4Crawler, I installed the Toytech 1" Diff Drop.
I thought the tundra coil and BamaChem Top spacer that most run so successfully is fairly equivalent in lift characteristics to the 881 and 3/4" spacer? It would just be ride quality that is different.
I thought the tundra coil and BamaChem Top spacer that most run so successfully is fairly equivalent in lift characteristics to the 881 and 3/4" spacer? It would just be ride quality that is different.
#10
Anyone else?
#11
My sister lives in ARnold!!!
#14
The 3/4" topout is the likely culprit; topout spacers break things, too much droop.
#17
Maybe you can use thicker upper bump stops or spacers on the bump stops to limit the CV angles. That way you keep the lift but limit the droop. I think if you have lockers droop is over-rated anyway. I am just about at full droop sitting flat on the ground. Its a sacrafice I made to help with CV life.
Last edited by mt_goat; May 13, 2008 at 07:42 AM.
#18
Yeah, I dont understand what is happening--i am running 35's open up front, 2.5" SS #7 and i have yet to break a front CV (I expect it to happen though just not all the time). Maybe there is something about this combo that just isnt right?
#20
I concur with the others that the top out spacer is the prime suspect. The CVs weren't designed to go beyond the factory droop. Steve sold limiting straps for the front at one time, dunno if he still does. That would allow you to keep the spacer and still limit to factory droop.



