Paint suggestions for Bumper/Grill
#1
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Richland, Washington
Paint suggestions for Bumper/Grill
I've got the itch to paint my chrome bumpers and the chrome on the grill black, maybe the door handles too, as well as my wheels tomorrow or Wednesday or a combo of upcoming days off
Searching for paint for the wheels is easy but I couldn't find anything via the seach for the bumpers or the grill.
Any suggestions as to what type of paint to use? Just normal Krylon or Rustoleum or should I grab something else? Primer and clear coat as well?
Searching for paint for the wheels is easy but I couldn't find anything via the seach for the bumpers or the grill.Any suggestions as to what type of paint to use? Just normal Krylon or Rustoleum or should I grab something else? Primer and clear coat as well?
#2
If you NEVER want the chome again, make sure to etch (or at least thoroughly wet-sand with 1000 grit paper) and prime the bumper so the paint don't peel. Also, if you can get an 2-stage / epoxy primer, all the better. After the metal is prepped, any good paint is okay.
...or...
go the pocket-saving route and just spray can it- rustoleum if you go that route.
or go uber-cool and powder coat...
...or...
go the pocket-saving route and just spray can it- rustoleum if you go that route.
or go uber-cool and powder coat...
#3
i painted my grill and door handles with textured rustoleum after sanding and priming. It wasn't too much work and it's held up for a year now. The bumper I'm not sure about though.
#4
#5
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,586
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From: Richland, Washington
If you NEVER want the chome again, make sure to etch (or at least thoroughly wet-sand with 1000 grit paper) and prime the bumper so the paint don't peel. Also, if you can get an 2-stage / epoxy primer, all the better. After the metal is prepped, any good paint is okay.
...or...
go the pocket-saving route and just spray can it- rustoleum if you go that route.
or go uber-cool and powder coat...
...or...
go the pocket-saving route and just spray can it- rustoleum if you go that route.
or go uber-cool and powder coat...
I figure, clean the surface, sand it down, wipe it clean, primer and then paint. If I can find a flat clear coat, I'll throw that on last. I'll run up to WalMart and grab some Rustoleum most likely.
I have a feeling its going to lead from one thing to another though.....my mirrors need a refreshing, so does my window cowl
Anyone know how hard it is to unbolt and remount the bumpers solo?
#7
I'm leaning more towards the pocket-saving route
I figure, clean the surface, sand it down, wipe it clean, primer and then paint. If I can find a flat clear coat, I'll throw that on last. I'll run up to WalMart and grab some Rustoleum most likely.
I have a feeling its going to lead from one thing to another though.....my mirrors need a refreshing, so does my window cowl
Anyone know how hard it is to unbolt and remount the bumpers solo?
I figure, clean the surface, sand it down, wipe it clean, primer and then paint. If I can find a flat clear coat, I'll throw that on last. I'll run up to WalMart and grab some Rustoleum most likely.
I have a feeling its going to lead from one thing to another though.....my mirrors need a refreshing, so does my window cowl
Anyone know how hard it is to unbolt and remount the bumpers solo?
Also, I don't recommend using a clear coat on any can of spray paint that wasn't meant to be coated. Often, the clear will cause the base coat to bubble, wrinkle or blister or the base coat will cause the clear to 'haze' or 'fog'. Most of the time, that's caused by the base coat being enamel and the clear coat being urethane. If you really 'have' to clear on top of the base, give the base coat 24 to 48 hours before you apply the clear, and wet (water) sand the base coat with at least a 1200 grit paper with a sponge behind it.
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#8
I use the Duplicolor primer, then Truck/SUV paint, then clear coat. It works and looks really good for rattle can. In fact, if you can try to set it up so over spray does not fall on the part, you can get a really nice finish.
Frank
Frank
#10
Ya, the bumper removal takes about 4 mins. IIRC, it's 6 14mm bolts: 1 on each fender, and 2 on each frame rail. I have air tools, and didn't reinstall my fender bolts, and my bumper removal time is 45 seconds.
#11
i started a thread a while back that shows the painting of all the stuff, hope it helps.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...eekend-127050/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...eekend-127050/
#14
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Richland, Washington
Well, got a jump on most of it today, minus door handles and wheels. That'll be addressed on my next 2 days I get off from work.
Neighbors in my apt. complex must have thought I was odd, stripping the front of the truck and carrying the parts into my apartment. My GF thankfully let me paint on the back porch. So, all in all, I got the side markers, grill, front bumper as well as my mirrors and broken flares done. I ended up doing a combo of automotive goop/gorilla glue/paint on the flares. As far as the rear bumper, I couldn't get one of the bolts loose so I ended up painting that in the parking lot.
Before:

After:

Final tally:
4 cans of Krylon (1 Krylon Fusion Plastic, 1 Krylon Flat Black Primer, 2 Krylon Flat Black)
1 pair of shorts. Blew the butt out putting my flares back on in the parking lot. Didn't think about it for a few minutes until I realized I was going camando.
I still need to get my door handles and my toolbox as well as wheels.
Neighbors in my apt. complex must have thought I was odd, stripping the front of the truck and carrying the parts into my apartment. My GF thankfully let me paint on the back porch. So, all in all, I got the side markers, grill, front bumper as well as my mirrors and broken flares done. I ended up doing a combo of automotive goop/gorilla glue/paint on the flares. As far as the rear bumper, I couldn't get one of the bolts loose so I ended up painting that in the parking lot.
Before:

After:

Final tally:
4 cans of Krylon (1 Krylon Fusion Plastic, 1 Krylon Flat Black Primer, 2 Krylon Flat Black)
1 pair of shorts. Blew the butt out putting my flares back on in the parking lot. Didn't think about it for a few minutes until I realized I was going camando.
I still need to get my door handles and my toolbox as well as wheels.
Last edited by EWAYota; May 7, 2008 at 05:36 PM.
#16
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Richland, Washington
I think it turned out fairly well for the time I spent on it. Doing it on the back porch on a windy day, I'm not going to complain. I do think next time I do it, I will get a flat clear coat to put on it.
Sad part, the rest of the paint on the truck looks so crappy. I need 4 days off and a garage! Then I can give it a full Flat Black or Satin paint job. Still going to bug me till the chrome windshield trim is either replaced or painted as well.
Sad part, the rest of the paint on the truck looks so crappy. I need 4 days off and a garage! Then I can give it a full Flat Black or Satin paint job. Still going to bug me till the chrome windshield trim is either replaced or painted as well.
#17
When i had my 89 pickup i used "Satin Black" on the grill and windshield frame and it came out real nice, differnt that the flat black. Only issue was it did like to chip after a while, but then again i didnt prep the parts at all, just sprayed them. The truck looks very nice!!!
#18
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,586
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From: Richland, Washington
Ok, so I'm shooting for Monday or Tuesday to finish it all up.
As far as clearcoating goes, does anyone make a Flat clearcoat in a can? Closest I've seen without really searching is Krylon Matte finish.
As far as clearcoating goes, does anyone make a Flat clearcoat in a can? Closest I've seen without really searching is Krylon Matte finish.
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