Ok, I'm the new guy, just joined today. A little about my self, right now I own a Silverado 2500HD Duramax 2004 crewcab, but I am in the process of selling it. I am wanting something I can have fun in still, but not pay a fortune for every tank of fuel, or for every modification. So I guess this is where I start my question, and it involves the "Pre '84 trucks" section, and the "84-85 Trucks and 4Runners" section.
Ok, I am currently looking at several Toyota pickup trucks. the ones I am most interested in being a '81 long wheel base 20R, and another being a short wheel base 22R '82 model. Both trucks are ok, but neither perfect. Well, I guess for the age their not bad. There that is out of the way.
Now the real question, I need help with basically a break down of all solid front axle trucks, because these are the ones I am mainly interested in. Maybe someone has some advice on the ones to stay away from, and maybe the ones to be on the look out for. I like to mud ride, nothing dumb, just good Alabama mud, and I occasionally pull my 4-wheeler around to different locations. I would like a truck that can do both of these things and maybe pull a 33-35" tire while doing it. This may not be an option because of power, but that is the hole point of this wright up, just some advise from the Toyota drivers, because you guys know what these trucks will and won't do.
So, any advice would be greatly appreciated on any SFA truck, and the only reason I am interested in the SFA trucks, is that I think they would be easier to work with, and again I could be wrong. Thanks for any input into this question...Looking to become a Toyota family member very soon

 

Welcome to YotaTech. As far as a 33-35" tire on a 4-cylinder its all about gearing. The 4-cylinder found in the older trucks will be able to have plenty of power for the tire sizes above as long as the differentials are re-greared. I believe a lot of people go 5.29 gears for 35" tire & 4.88 gears for a 33" tire & have had success without losing power due to tire size. You might end up building up the Toyota you find so much so that you might want to consider keeping the 2500HD for your tow rig back & forth to the trails.

 

Yea, that might be the situation I have to consider, but I would like to loose the 2500, so that I can invest a little more in a good yota. I think that might be the best idea though, I will just have to see how everything works out...maybe I will come across a good deal, and pick one up at a good price. Thanks.

 

Has any one researched the lcengeneering chargers for the 22r and 22re? Is this a worth while venture, or a waste of money?

 

swap in a 3.4 liter with the money from the sale of the 2500

 

Look at my writeup (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...thread-107890/) for the path if you buy a truck with a decent frame and body and everything else in need of work. Lots of brutal honesty in that writeup and fyi I now have $7k in it total and over a year of my time. So please don't think that any buildup will be cheap or fast.

Stick with the bullet-proof 22r/22re. They get awesome gas mileage (20 or so), mine turns 33" tires with stock 4.10 gearing, and the engines are really easy to access and do work on. I have to be careful easing out the clutch at a redlight but I see no other problem driving my truck up to 70 mph with a standard stick shift on 33" tires.

In my opinion, engine swaps require a whole new level of ability and result in a whole new bunch of problems. It's kind of like a heart transplant: sure, you fix one set of problems but you exchange it for an entirely new set (meaning all the rejection issues of getting the transplant to work with the original other stuff).

Definitely get the SFA which limits you to 1985 and earlier. I've had both and I prefer the rough ride of the SFA any day over the IFS. IFS is great for a nice, smooth ride but if you do much offroading you'll risk breaking CV's or at least tearing the boots and you'll always wonder if you should do a SFA swap ($2000 unless you have serious welding skills). If you start out with a SFA you'll never have to wonder. Just be ready for your first ride in one and remember that shocks and springs will not fix all of that...

Another key to using the 22r/22re is a stick shift as that gives the truck so much more power, even if it's mostly in your mind. I had a v6 auto 4runner before and it really seemed like a dog compared to my stick shift 22r.

If you do decide to go IFS stay away from the 3.0 v6 (unless you're buying it to do an engine swap). I unloaded mine before any problems but I just saw a jeep friend spend $2500 on a head gasket replacement for a straight six. Sure you could do it yourself but there's no guarantee that it wouldn't happen again 6 months later.

The difference between 22r and 22re is pretty small. That said I now wish I had switched mine over during the engine replacement as working with the carb has been painful but much of it was caused because I have an aftermarket cam and oversize valves. I was stupid and kept trying to get an OEM carb to work on an engine with different requirements.

If I were looking for a toyota 4x4 I would get an pre-1985 truck with zero frame rust and a good body. I would also decide between buying someone else's rig as most of us are willing to sell ours for the cost of parts only (or less) or buy one that needs significant work and then only because I want the experience. I bought a 1985 with a bad engine and once I got the engine running, I figured out that everything else needs replacing, too. You see, if you buy one that needs work it has probably sat for a while which means that many other problems are hidden that will definitely become visible once put on the road as a daily-driver. Ah well, it's been a great life-time experience. My mechanic tells me all the time that I could have spent $4k on an automotive class and not learned half of what I now know. I started two years ago and couldn't change my own oil.

Even now when I get disgusted because I'm in the middle of working on some part or because I'm trying to figure out how to move it when my family moves I think of selling it. But like most of us, it's hard (pretty much impossible) to sell it for even what we've spent in parts alone so we keep driving it. And because I drive it, I'll keep modifying it because I know how I want the truck to eventually be.

Long answer but you asked for my opinion and I've got lots of opinions...

 

buy one that is allready built to what you need, im saying big tires low gears lockers and all that. it will save you money.

 

I know it may save me money, but I am the type of person who wants to claim I did everything my self, and really always have. It may not be as good as someone else's work, but it makes it mine. Listen if I can take a 22r and pull 33" tires and occasionally a small 4-wheeler trailer to local riding holes, then I will be happy. I am just finding that alot of people sell pretty rough shape trucks for the same price as the good shape trucks. So I am going to keep my eyes open. I found a '83 reg. cab short bed with 213k on the speedo with minimum rust and body damage for 4k, but I have to make a heck of a drive to get the truck, so I don't know if that is worth it. Thanks for everyones responses.this is the kinda things I learn from.

 

unless that '83 has been rebuilt...and is lifted and has some damn good tires...i would say 4grand is kinda DAMN high..i got my '80 for $1500...its definately not in the best of shape..but not the worst...so..i would try and talk him down on the price...or find a different one..there was one here in Talequah Oklahom for $3500 that had a 5in lift and brand new 33x14 SS Boggers on it...only 175,xxx someodd miles...great condition NO rust...extended cab...the EXACT truck i wanted but i already have my 1st gen...and i aint given it up..lol

 

Yea I understand, but I deff. want a truck that is in stock form, or as close as I can get it. I have looked at several local 81'-85' trucks and the cheapest one I can find is a stock '81 or '82 with a rebuilt 20r, and it has frame damage...and their asking 3,000 flat for it. I can't seem to find the great deals...if anyone has a link to some better deals please let me know....I don't want to get screwed that's for sure. Thanks.

 

How do I keep track of my post or new threads I start, without have to go to the place I posted it and search for mine? Is there not some device that will let me just see all my posts or threads? Like a quick link.

 

Go to advanced search and put in your username to search for all posts by a certain member. Or you can click on your name by your post in this thread and do the same thing.

I bought my 1985 with a rod knock but an excellent body and frame for $1700. I immediately sold the nerf bars, rear bumper, and rollbar for $400 or so. Since I have sold the tires for another $100. $3k is way too high. It's worth the wait to find exactly what you want for a decent price. These trucks show up on eBay frequently and I searched craiglist over a 3 state area for a month or so.