So I'm in the middle of my tear down, and like any good newbie, I've gotten to about step 20 and realized I skipped step 2. I realized I hadn't yet loosened the bolts on the timing wheels of my cams so I could take them off. The timing belt is also off at this point. I tried using a breaker bar to get the bolts to break over but the belt just kept slipping, which is why it is off completely now and not going back on (it made me mad).

I noticed the two small bolts inside of timing wheel that connect through the shroud into the block.

Now the big question: if I go buy some longer, strong bolts to use a post to keep the wheel from spinning so I can break the bolts over, what are the chances I screw up the block? Is this a good idea? Here's a picture so you guys can see what I'm talking about. Opinions? Suggestions? Thanks.




By tatownhawk at 2008-02-23

 

Are you just trying to get the cams out? Or just do a timing belt or cam seal replacement?


I removed the cams with the gears still on them. Those 2 bolts hold the metal backing plate onto the block. Unbolt those, pry it back a little with a prybar, and then gently pull up on the cams with that metal piece still connected to the 2 cams. Little bit of a pita, but it works.

 

Dont use those holes! They make a tool with 2 ears that is designed to hold the cam for gear removal. You can also get a 1/2" impact gun with a short 17mm socket in there to run them off

 

You can use a socket that fits the head of those bolts behind the cam pulley, and a long extension. Put the socket with the extension on it on the bolt head behind the cam pulley and have somebody hold it there securely while you loosen the cam pulley bolt (the extension through the pulley will keep it from turning.) Or, better yet, take a 2 or 3 foot long piece of angle iron, drill two properly spaces holes in it and install two 3" bolts and nuts to the angle iron. Place the two bolts in through the cam pulley, and use the length of angle iron as leverage to hold the pulley still while you undo the nut.

 

x2... I have used this method with success as well.

 

X3...

 

Thanks alot guys. Will try today and let you know how it goes. To answer Adamf - I'm doing a full rebuild.

 

Dude, I am stuck just as you. List of things I have tried:

1) 250lb air gun
2) 240lb electric gun
3) 650lb air gun
4) Breaker bar with a crowbar wedged b/w frame/pulley

All of these methods have failed. With the breaker bar I was even able to tourque the motor up pretty high. I was hitting it with a 2lb hand sledge too...


Damn nuts are on tight and I am stumped.

 

^ Have you tried WD-40?

 

I'm not comfortable putting all those types of fluids where my t-belt is gonna be...


I'm ordering this now:
http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1956

 

Its a bummer i am not gonna do that for ya!

 

That is the kind of tool that you must use. The one I bought was much cheaper though, cost me about $15.00. Just go to your local auto store and take a look. Mine has one fixed point and another on a pivot so you can use it for all sizes of pulleys. Works like magic.

Jason

 

Money is super tight and paying 1K in labor wasn't much of an option.

Man, I went to about 5 different parts store and only one had something close. But it grabbed onto the bolts that some other pulleys have. There was nothing at any store for me to use.

 

I snapped two bolts off trying the socket experiment ... did a search at Advance Auto Parts and found this-- http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3491

 

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...gle&kw=OTC4754

OTC 4754 - universal pulley holder-
Will work on toyota crank pulley as well as cam pulleys

I have used the tool on both a Toyota 3.4L V6 & 4.7 V8 during timing belt replacements-
Very well worth the money.

You could also make your own cam pulley holder with flat bar and some bolts

 

That tool and a pipe on the breaker bar worked like a charm. Damn

 

I did that once a long time ago on a crank dampner pulley, I just tied a strong rope around it & then anchored it on an engine bracket & it worked.