i just bought a flex-a-lite electric fan for my 88 4runner with the 3vze and i need a little help with the wiring. the instructions say:

"Connect the "+" terminal of the control box to a 12v positive (+) power source (i.e. fuse box), using the thin red wire and fuse taps (if necessary) provided in the kit."

i have absolutely no idea how to do this, as i am electrically challenged. any help or further explanation would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

 

Just connect into a wire with 12 volts on it, if you want the fan to run anytime, use a wire that is always hot (I added my own wire out of the fuse box - w/ separate fuse/circuit breaker) for the fan, otherwise use a wire that switches on and off with the ignition:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#FanControl

 

do you know where i can find one of these ignition controlled wires?

 

Lots of them under the hood. Bes tip is to invest in a volt meter or a simple test light and start poking around. You can get a volt meter for $3:
- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899

Or get ahold of a Factory Service Manual wiring diagram for your year truck and look at that, it'll give you the location and color code of those type of wires.

 

If it were me I would grab a wiring diagram and locate the wire which comes out off the "ON" terminal on the ign switch, behind the steering column.

 

would i just be able to run it out of the fuse box, on say the ignition fuse?

 

would a fuse tap actually work?

 

if you could find a fuse that only has power when the ign is on.

 

Or read this article in the tech section:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127.../#post50390749

 

Just posting this so everyone knows:

The AC wire you need for the controller is connected right to the compressor; but it is easily (and cleanly) accessible in the wire bundle at the firewall on the passenger side. I searched all over for this info, and finally had to track it down.

I hope it can save someone else a lot of time!

Just check the wire color at the compressor and opened the huge bundle by the firewall and find the same color wire. Do a continuity test before tapping in though! The colors on the wires can be VERY similar.

My pics were too big for this forum, or I would have them up too.

 

I don't want to make things more difficult for you in any way. But I've seen more than a couple threads now about these fans pulling quite a bit of amps and melting the wiring. I would make sure you use heavier wiring and maybe even go as far as soldering the joints. I'm not sure if the fans I ws reading about were dual fans or not but I just wanted to throw that out there and prevent a possible car B-Q.

 

I recommend getting a fixed temperature thermo fan controller (such as the ones that you see at the auto parts stores-I am running a 180* one) and a constant duty solenoid (I have a 85A one from West Marine $39). Without the constant duty solenoid I was melting the 30A relays on the fan controller. I used the fan controller to turn on the solenoid which easily handles the startup current draw. I am running a Taurus fan so it draws a lot of current on startup.