Hey guys, i am getting ready to order my SAS kit for my 89 runner. I need to know if there is a chart that i can go by to order the correct lift springs. I want to run 35" without trimming. I just want to have the lowest lift possible. I did a search but I am incompetent and cant find one.

thanks

 

The lowest SAS you can do will fit 35's with MINOR fender trimming at most.

Not to sound harsh, but if you have to ask these questions, you don't need an SAS and you're not ready to jump into one...

 

Lots of factors besides just the tire height....as width is more of a factor for rubbing as is wheel back spacing.

35" generally are as big as you can go and not rub into the firewall without tubbing it...depending again on how far forward you push your front spring hanger.

On a 4Runner you want 1" less in the front than the rear to level things out so 3" front 4" rear or 4" front and 5" rear are your options...and you might want the HD springs up front to compensate if you have a V6 or a V8.

 

So basically I should go with the 5" Hd because i have 3.slow?

 

No offense but i like to keep my center of gravity low! I am not doing it for the looks, i am doing it for the capability!

 

Unless you are locking it front and rear, putting cromo in at least the front, preferably the rear as well, then you are doing it more for looks than capability.

4" fronts 5 rear would probably do you well for no trimming. As wabbit said, you need to consider width, wheel backspacing. This is all assuming you are using a stocky toy housing.

This 4 runner is running 37's, no tubbing, and sits several inches LOWER than a trail gear swapped truck with the TG 4" springs and 35's.

 

Axle, What is the front set-up on that 4runner?

 

Custom Alcan leaf packs, fox remote reservoir shocks, and slick air bumps set to act as sway bars. Front axle and rear axle are 68" WMS to WMS custom diamond housing all mini truck based, running cromo junk, and ARB's. Rear is 4link, 14" SAW dual rate coilovers.

37" MTR's, beadlocked, dual cases, auto, 3.4.

Yeah, like a frame and a body of a 95.

 

I must just be too easy on my junk as I'm still running stock birfs and inners. Lockright front,Hyd assist,Dual cases 4.7+2.28,5.29's,R151,4" SAS on 35's My truck weighs 5100# loaded up for wheeling and still no cromo's ???
Maybe Im just lucky? Or maybe its my excessive use of the E brake to keep my rear TruTrac locked that keeps any slack out of my drivetrain hence saving my birfs. I will probably kick myself for even posting this as it will probably cost me a birf on my next trip

In fact of my 3 friends all SAS running dual cases and 35-36" tires with lockers only one of us had broken a birf and it was the 4cyl Taco guy with 36" SX's in the mud no less.

 

Nice truck. You live in Alamagordo?

 

So you are locked front, and true trac rear? That doesn't sound like open-open to me. As for axle breakage, awesome. You'll notice I never said he'd break a bunch of axles. But, stock birfields are equal in strength to stock CV axles, so, unless you put in cromo, you aren't gaining performance. Which is what I said.

The point was, unless the OP put all of that stuff into his truck, he'd be gaining a little bit of flex and stronger steering over IFS, but he said he was doing it for capability. Without lockers, and cromo, a swapped truck is only slightly more capable than IFS with the same.

It does look A LOT cooler. Don't get me wrong, I love swapped trucks. I may even do mine one day. But I hate the idea that is floated around this board constantly that you have to have a SAS to wheel at all.

No. That is not my truck. It is a good friend's. He lives in Fort Collins, CO. I posted it to illustrate that you can keep a truck low, with big tires, and a swap, but you have to think outside the box to do it. The OP indicated that he wanted to stay low. That truck is 8" wider than a stock SAS truck, and several inches lower with bigger tires. It would take A TON to roll that baby.

 

That 4Runner looks a lot different than the last time I saw it. The last time I saw it in person it was pigeon-toed on Pritchett Canyon.

 

Seems that used to happen a bunch...

 

Yes, i am going to be locked f/r, I already have the thirds set up. I do also plan on upgrading the axles next year. Where i live is mostly mud I mainly want better durability, wheel travel and stability. the wheels that i am using are 15x10 and they are in my garage, I had them on my tacoma with 32x10.5x15 I am not sure how to measure the backspacing. If someone can let me know i'll figure that out also before i order.

I do really wish that people would stop busting my chops, this is the 3rd trail rig that i have owned, (not including my DD tacoma that has seen way too much trail time) and the first major build by me. I copped out the first truck and bought it built, the second one i had a good start on but had to sell it due to me needing to install a new furnace in my house. So, i know what i want and why i want it, all i am asking for is some encouraging help instead of criticism. Thanks guys

 

To measure back spacing:

Flip the wheel over, and put a straight piece of material across it. Measure the distance from the WMS to that material.

Also measure the distance between the edge of the rim, and where the bead actually seats...(usually .125-.25") Subtract that from the first number.

 

99.9999% of the people on here don't NEED a SAS and they waste a bunch of money based on web-wheelers opinions. IMHO, you are part of that group (at least currently). For mud, flex doesn't matter. With a stock Toyota motor, tcase, normal gearing, and 35's durability won't be much of an issue either.

I am just trying to help people build the rig they need for the least amout of money.

Do a rear locker and 33's first - you'll be AMAZED at how far your truck will go for 1/10th the money of a properly done SAS, and if you decide you still need to swap, you haven't wasted any money.

 

my wheels have 4.5" backspacing the size tire i will be using is 35x12.5/r15

 

This may be a dumb question but are rims not sold using offset numbers not backspacing? Like 1 inch positive offset or 1 inch negative offset? Positive offset pushing the rim away from the truck and negative pulling it into the truck?