how should i break in my 3.0 after the rebuild

 

go on a trip to the mountains?

 

by swapping it with a 3.4

 

i'm sayin like how long do i hold it at a certian rpm and what rmp that is when i can let it idle when to change the oil when to drop the oil pan and when to run synthetic

 

just take it mudding for a day. you got your slow speed, your redlines and your heavy foot to get outa the mud. that will break he rin real good.

 

My my, everyone's pretty froggy with the ballinest tire debate goin on. Are you doing new cams or piston rings? If so, then the 20 minute revfest/break in period and the first 1,000 miles or whatever distance are determined by them(initial is cam break in, mileage is ring break in). As far as going to synthetics, that's a whole other can of worms, which I haven't researched enough to even give you an inkling of advice.

 

yea we need mor einfo. What kind of rebuild are your talking about?

 

generally when you first start it and set the timing, hold the rpms at 2500 for a minute or two before you take the first drive. then you can accelerate somewhat briskly but don't redline it. as you drive for the first 500 miles try to vary the rpm's as much as you can. keep it from idling as much as possible. after 500 miles, change your oil and filter. you can also check the torque on the head bolts if you are concerned about it. mine were fine when checked

 

Use normal 10w30 oil and a genuine Toyota oil filter. Use any non-synthetic oil other than recycled/reclaimed oil.

Fill the engine with oil and coolant. Start it up. Warm it up. Bleed cooling system. Set your timing. Shut it down and check for leaks. Top up oil if required.

Once the engine is at operating temperature, it is permissable to drive at full load, full throttle. Doing so is a GOOD THING.

Go and find a BIG mountain highway and drive up full throttle, top gear. This will put full load on your rings and help seat them. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge and don't overheat your engine. If the temp gauge creeps up, you have a cooling system problem that should be repaired.

After 20-30 minutes of full load driving, check your oil levels, and top up if required. Then go do it again.

This is how we seat the rings on freshly rebuilt engines. Done it to dozens of them. Once the rings are seated, your oil consumption issues will disappear.

Some oil burning/consumption is normal during your break-in period. Once your consumption drops to nil (1L/3000 miles or better) you can switch to synthetic oils if you prefer.

 

i bought an engine with 200,000 miles on it rebuilt less than 30,000 ago (rebuilt heads, new crank, pistons, rods ect.) took it apart, decked the block and bored .20 over, i got new pistons, rings, bearings ect. i decked the heads, and i am getting adjustable camshaft sprockets from lce, bored throttle body from d.o.a., lce headers, borla catback, and after 30,000 miles i am going to upgrade the cams (TRD or weasy i'm not even sure really)and port and polish the heads and does anyone have any suggestions on parts(possibly the whole d.o.a. thing)

 

Run it at varying speeds for a tank of fuel. Try to stay out of the WOT for very long.

Heat cycle it several times (allow to fully cool)

 

Ok I have two questions, as I have just hit this point myself.

1. How do I bleed my coolant system?

2. Do I fill the engine itself with coolant, or just the radiator?

I got the motor started yesterday, but it had some of the symptoms described above. It ran fine, but was idling high and was not taking any coolant, so the bottom hose was cold, but the top one was boiling hot... So far all I know is that there was only half the max coolant in the radiator, and none in the engine to start....

 

is the thermostat backwards ?

and, when i bleed my bmw, i have to raise the front of the car above the rear, and turn a bleed screw.

however, when i pressure cleaned my 4banger, i just added coolant, as it has an open overflow tank.

start it up, turn on the heat on full blast and watch it cylce. i watched it cycle a lot of hose water 1st (w/the drain open), then 3 gallons of distilled water, then the coolant w/distilled mix).

always use distilled water

 

Ok I also came to the same conclusion about the thermostat. a few more symptoms included the heater blowing ice cold, even when at max hot, and the engine hitting running temp in a warm shop. it also seemed to hesitate a little when the throttle was hit, which i think a little fine tuning should fix. any other suggestions? and also what about the filling up the engine with coolant before start?

 

86tuning is got a good recommendation. You need a thermostat with a small hole in it to vent air trapped in the block...A BAD THING. With the new thermostat you can be comforted that little to no air will be trapped in critical spots. A gentle and steady load is what will seat the rings. I agree with the 10-30 oil choice with the recommended interval change. At the first change, put in synthetic and enjoy the new motor. It will eventually calm down and recheck timing and torques on what you can reach. Be sure to keep the idle at 1500 for the first 5 minutes upon cranking. This keeps the oil volume and pressure up at a most critical time.

My $0.02 and quite a few overhauled motors under my belt.

 

OK i'm going with vavoline 10w 30, firing her up keepin' her at 1100 to 1200 for a while, not letting her idle, cycling a few times and taking her for a spin, not going over 2500, after 100 miles i'm changin the oil, after 500 miles i'm droppin the pan, another 1000 miles changin the oil, another 2000 changin the oil after another 3000 miles i'm droppin the pan again and takin' a road trip to alabama from pennsylvania. at 10,000 miles i'm switching to synthetic.


any thoughts? please comment.