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T-bar crank:alignment necessary?

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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 01:06 PM
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thook's Avatar
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
T-bar crank:alignment necessary?

Hello ladies and gentlemen...

I was just wondering...since I haven't found a specific answer in a two hour search...if someone would tell me if an alignment was necessary with only a 1/2" cranks on the t-bars. I'm guessing it is (but hoping not), and if so is it just the camber that needs realigning?
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 01:06 PM
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From: Thunder bay Ontairooo
i asked this not to while ago, let me find something
okay, this is what 4crawler told me

Yes, an alignment is generally needed any time to change the front ride height:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...GetAnAlignment

Last edited by Albert.G; Oct 10, 2007 at 01:08 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 03:23 PM
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Camber and toe

Yes, it is needed
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 03:29 PM
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AxleIke is correct.

Not just the camber, but maybe not even, but almost definetely your toe-in. Depends on where they're at when your done adjusting the ride height. The toe-in adjustment will move at least a small degree and probably throw you out of specs. Those being 0-.08" toe-in for radials, .12-.20" toe-in for bias for an 86 4Runner. The specs for an 86 4Runner also call for 1/12"N-1&5/12"P camber(preferred setting 2/3"P, yes POSITIVE!). A range of 1.5" ya see, so it may well fall within there. My 88 pickup handles better with 0 camber or 1/12"P. Even 1/12"N camber isn't what it likes, and any more negative than that is really bad. Specs are the same for 86-88 pickups & 4Runners.

Caster won't be effected, but could be if/when you adjust the camber. You can adjust for camber with out moving your caster, as long as you adjust the front and rear cam bolts the same amount. Caster is adjusted by the difference between the settings of both bolts. Adjusting one more relative to the other changes your caster, this is why it doesn't change when your ride height does. They're still relative to each other, nothing's moved. And by the way the 86-88 pickups & 4Runners specs for caster are 3/4"P-2&1/4"P(preferred setting 1&1/2"P).

Last edited by MudHippy; Oct 11, 2007 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by Albert.G
i asked this not to while ago, let me find something
okay, this is what 4crawler told me

Yes, an alignment is generally needed any time to change the front ride height:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...GetAnAlignment
Link is outdated...d-d-d-dude. Got a better one?


Well, I figured as much. Just trying to get a little lift to stop a tad bit of rub. I just had the alignment done a couple months ago, too. Oh well... Maybe later.

Thanks

ps: I'd still like to read the 4crawler article, though.
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 05:07 PM
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From: Thunder bay Ontairooo
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...GetAnAlignment

hope this one works
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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From: Tucson, AZ USA Age:60
Originally Posted by thook
<SNIP>
Just trying to get a little lift to stop a tad bit of rub. <SNIP>
What's rubbing where and when ?




Fred
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 06:41 AM
  #8  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
It's just rubbing on my oil bypass filter on hard turns when the tire is stuffed.....which happens not a lot, but enough.

I installed the filter when I had 30" tires, and now I'm running 31's. It's no big thing, but it was a hassle installing the filter where it is (in the pass. side wheel well) and I hated to have to redrill IF I could actually find another location for the filter. There's only so many places it would fit, and the lines going to and fro are only so long. So, I thought "Aye, I'd just crank the bars a wee bit" and get some lift...not only for practicality, but for a little eye candy as well. I was also going to lift the rear a bit with longer shackles when the new leaf/shackle bushings go in next week.

Anyway, the driveway alignment looks simple enough, but I don't really have a driveway to do it. Even more, I really don't feel like srewin' with the alignment as good as it is right now. The alignment shop is top notch, eh.

And t'anks for the link!
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 03:19 PM
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From: Tucson, AZ USA Age:60
Originally Posted by thook
It's just rubbing on my oil bypass filter on hard turns when the tire is stuffed.....which happens not a lot, but enough.

I installed the filter when I had 30" tires, and now I'm running 31's. It's no big thing, but it was a hassle installing the filter where it is (in the pass. side wheel well) and I hated to have to redrill IF I could actually find another location for the filter. There's only so many places it would fit, and the lines going to and fro are only so long. So, I thought "Aye, I'd just crank the bars a wee bit" and get some lift...not only for practicality, but for a little eye candy as well. I was also going to lift the rear a bit with longer shackles when the new leaf/shackle bushings go in next week.

Anyway, the driveway alignment looks simple enough, but I don't really have a driveway to do it. Even more, I really don't feel like srewin' with the alignment as good as it is right now. The alignment shop is top notch, eh.

And t'anks for the link!

Well you do understand don't you (though from your post I don't think so), that simply lifting the vehicle (via suspension lift, bj spacers, t-bar crank, whatever) will not solve that specific problem that you're having.



Fred
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
I guess I don't, Fred. Enlighten me...won't you?
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 12:54 PM
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thook, the problem with your thinking is that a torsion bar crank only adjusts the height at which the truck rides, but in no way limits upward flex. Your tire will flex to the exact same location as it did without the crank. So, you could still end up ripping off the filter if you aren't careful.

You need to extend your lower bumpstops now. Put a few washers under them, and you'll be okay. Less flex, but no hitting of the filter.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Right......

Since I have no experience with lifting vehicles, I figured "well, if this is how folks are clearing larger tires on turns, it's what I'll try". But, I didn't think of it not changing the wheel stuffing at all thereby still hitting the filter. S'pose I'll be relocating it after all. Don't want less flex....that would be bad

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm feeling so enlightened now I must go get a cup of coffee. (God made such a wonderful bean. Why must he have made so...so...ADDICTIVE!!!?)
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 03:43 PM
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how do you crank the T-bar? i mean ive heard of flipping the leaf springs upside down for a lift, and i know how to do it i just dont want a super stiff ride, how do you crank the Tbar?
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 04:12 PM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
[QUOTE=ozziesironmanoffroad;50637944] ive heard of flipping the leaf springs upside down for a lift,QUOTE]

HAHA!! where have you heard that? That sounds horrible

If you look under your truck beside the frame rails you will see the torsion bars run to the front end, there will be a big bolt at the arse end of them, turn that to lift the front end.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 04:53 PM
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From: Dirt City (Lubbock, Tx)
I wanted to lift my truck up a little more but it seems that my T's are rusted in place or something stupid like that. I lifted my old 4Runner pretty easy but the truck wont move. Any ideas?
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Days and days of PB Blaster, a stiff wire brush, and possibly a propane torch. And whatever driver you use to break it loose, use a 1/2" drive. (A breaker bar just to crack it would be optimal)

Last edited by thook; Oct 12, 2007 at 07:08 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by ozziesironmanoffroad
how do you crank the T-bar? i mean ive heard of flipping the leaf springs upside down for a lift, and i know how to do it i just dont want a super stiff ride, how do you crank the Tbar?
I just don't even see that's at all possible. Unless, you're thinking of what I'm thinking. I've seen a pic floating around here where a fellow flip some leafs springs and used them as a basis for hanging leafs (turned the correct way) for greater flex and travel. I'll have to see if I can find that pic and compare notes with you. Later on that, though. Tomorrow...
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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From: Spring Valley, CA
[QUOTE=Jay351;50637961]
Originally Posted by ozziesironmanoffroad
ive heard of flipping the leaf springs upside down for a lift,QUOTE]

HAHA!! where have you heard that? That sounds horrible

If you look under your truck beside the frame rails you will see the torsion bars run to the front end, there will be a big bolt at the arse end of them, turn that to lift the front end.
heard it from my mechanic, they used to do it in the 60s. he says he wouldnt reccomend it, because, while strong, will give a VERY stiff ride and really increase your chances of rolling over.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Yep....I guess there's more than one reason why the 60's are over.

Now, how in the hell would someone hang leaf packs flipped? Seems so ridiculous. I mean....come on! Where in the hell would the axle even perch?

As it turns out, there's so many pic threads I can't locate the one pic I was talking about. I'll keep trying....unless someone happens to be looking at this thread and know themselves????
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Old Oct 14, 2007 | 06:07 PM
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Leaf flips are done all the time. you actually cut them in half at the same time. 3/4 eliptical is what its called. It is used in the same manner as a coil spring. The axle is located via a 3 or 4 link suspension, and the frame is supported off the axle by the inverted chopped leaf. It works very well, but requires a bit more planning to eliminate bumpsteer.
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