[SIZE="2"]Hey all,

I am about to give up!! Have taken apart and put back together twice. Each time I can BARELY get vehicle to start and run but dies. also, each time, the cam pullys seem to have moved two teeth to the left.

Can anyone PLEASE look at pics and tell me what iam doing wrong? I'll be monitering site for any ideas, imformation or questions.

I really appreciate the help!!

DJ

 

If I weren't so busy I'd come help ya...sorry. But, are you sure you're getting good tension on the belt?

 

I seem to be getting good tension. What I've been doing is setting both cam pullys at TDC, Crank TDC, putting driver side belt on first, putting pass. side belt on pully then straining to put pass. pully on. Put tensioner on, pull the pin, rotate crank two times to verify the cam positions, then put it back together.

I wish you were here too. Ya know, I-540 makes it a short trip to the River Valley. lol I wonder if my motor club would pay for wrecker service for a 47 mile tow. heh heh

Thanks for the reply,

DJ

 

I have racked my brain and all I can come up with is a bad tensioner.

Did you verify the function of the tensioner as specified here?

 

I dont have a bunch of exp. with that engine but, could the pulleys be on the wrong side?

It shows in the picture that if the pushrod moves, to replace it. I push it in to put the (what I like to call "the grenade pin") in. Am I doing something wrong?!

 

1. Do you have the knockdown pins in the camshafts? Look in the top picture you posted, right under the "D" there should be a pin in there. (1 on each cam)

2. before you are putting this all back together and starting it, are you doing the 2 rotation check after you put the tensioner on and before you put the timing cover back on? If you put the 19mm socket on the crank and turn counter clockwise exactly 2 revolutions, your left and right cam sprockets should line up dead on with the marks on the timing cover. If it moves to the left then you didn't keep tension on the belt enough when you installed it - Don't put the whole motor together until you pass this "2 rotation test"

Kat

 

The pulleys are on the correct sides.

The FSM states "Using a press, slowly push the rod in using 200-2205 lbf of force" before placing the 1.5mm hexagon wrench in the hole to hold it. Page EG2-45, http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf

So if it don't take a couple hundred pounds of force minimum to press the push rod in far enough to get the "pin" in, then the tensioner should be replaced.

 

MudHippy is correct on the tensioner, I had to buy a new one when I did mine. However, I would try my suggestions prior to buying a new part... I dont see the cam knockdown pins in those pictures and they will slip...

I think you should try a couple of time to make sure you keep the slack out, it takes a couple tries to get it right...

 

You can't push it in by hand can you? If so, it is definately bad and you need a new one.

 

i,ve been ther & it took me 4 times to get all lined up correctly after turning rotations.however much the belt is off set it up exactly the other direction.hard to explain but set it up 2 teeth past the marks then roll it over & ck.what happens is when you set the tensioner it pull the belt & upper pulley away from the marks

 

When I put the t belt on my Subaru, I had the same problem. I ended up rolling the cams in the opposite direction of where they were ending up. IE if the lh cam is ending up 2 teeth to the left, set it 2 teeth to the right. Spin 2 times and voil?, she's dead nuts! good luck!

 

beat me to it!

 

Hey all,

I sincerely hope that my HUA (Head up A$$) disease won't exclude you all from responding in the future.

When THOOK mentioned tension I remebered reading the FSM about installing the passenger side pully first AFTER pulling as much slack from the crank pully(sprocket). I somehow expected the tensioner to take out slack once the motor turned over a few times. (HUA)

Went back out...again...and started over. This time kept the belt tight over both pullys. pulled tensioner pin and WOO HOO!! I am still off by a tooth. BUT, vehicle started!!

At idle, the timing light shows 5 degrees past TDC. As RPMs go up timing dropped to around 10 degrees BTDC. Pulled everything off again and here is the result.






I figure I'll drop back one tooth and try again.

Mudhippy, you are right-as-rain. Had to use the vise to compress the tensioner enough to get the pin back in.

Kat, I wish you were here working on this thing. Have read your link about a dozen times. Really neat to see you tackle such a task.

My sincerest appreciation for all your help. If your ever down around Ozark, Arkansas let me know and I'll buy the Bar-B-Que. Best ribs in the state!!

Respectfully,

DJ

 

Before you close it up and try to start it again, remove your spark plugs so that you can easily turn the crankshaft (with your wrench). After a few revolutions, you should be able to see if the timing is correct.

GG

 

Not by hand, I use a bench vise to press it it.

 

DJ....
Is this a hydraulic tensioner you have? The tensioner on mine is spring loaded. Real simple.

 

THOOK,

The tensioner is hydraulic. I saw one with a spring in the manuel. I guess the hydraulic one works like a shock absorber.

Safety & blue skies,

DJ

 

I've no experience with a hydraulic tensioner. So, in your case, must the timing belt be installed in that procedure...installing the RH cam along with the belt?
On mine, with the spring tensioner, I installed the timing belt after both cam pulleys were installed and all three pulleys lined up on their marks...and the distributor pointing at #1 spark. I wrapped the belt around the right hand cam (driver's), under the idler pulley (water inlet), over the left hand cam (advanced about one notch clockwise), and then around the tensioner. Then, I pulled the LH cam back to it's mark taking all the slack out of the belt and set the tensioner making sure the RH cam did not pull back at the same time. This way made sure all the slack was out by the time I set the tensioner and all pulleys remained in alignment after rotation.
I'm wondering if you are able to do it this way at all. It was very effective and saved having to redo it to get it right. I suppose it's moot, though, if by now you've fixed the situation.

Thank you, DJ. Good cheer. Are you ever up in Fayetteville?

 

THOOK,

Went out this afternoon and tried again. Was off one tooth. Neighbor took pity and cam over to help. After a couple hours we finally got it right. Starts fine but now acts like one of the cylinders aren't firing. We pulled the #1 plug (new platnium) and it has carbon on it. Pulled #6 and it looked fine. Put #6 plug in #1 wire and saork is ORANGE. Pulled #3 plug wire with same result. Going to take it to Toyota on Thursday and have them hook up to diagnostic. Hope it may just be a coil.

I'll let you know what we find out. Son is headed back to Tech in Russellville in August so will have to get it fixed by then.

We don't get to Fayetteville much. Usually go through when going to Branson or Roaring River in Seligman, MO. Wife and I try to see a couple of programs at the Walton PAC there on Dixon. I'll keep you posted.

Safety & blue skies,

DJ