Hi. I have a 95' 4-runner with some major cancer issues. I took her around to a few body shops for some quotes on the rust. I took it to this small little garage and got a 600 dollar estimate. Then I took to the best body shop in Erie, PA (Bonnell's) which gave me a 5,000 dollar estimate lol. Then I took it to another body shop with a good reputation in his work and honesty (Dick Deutsch Auto Body) and was quoted at 1300 with no guarentees that there wouldnt be some sort of bubbling in the next year or two. I want to do this project myself. I have access to all the tools I would need to do it. I have no experience with a project of this sort before. I have access to a wielder and a bunch of air tools to help me sand and grind. I think I can do this, it just might not look very pretty when I'm finished and my parents are anal about having a POS looking car sitting in our driveway. So here's the photos of the damage. I'm looking for some feedback on things I should go buy for the project. Such as how much bondo, rust inhibitors?, what kind of primer is best? What kind of place to i go to get the paint I need to match the rest of the car? Thanks for the quick feedback I know I'll get from you yotatech'ers in advance!

-Kory

-PS I took photos of my rusty bumper and trailer hitch but I'm not really too concerned about those right now, just the rotting body, also once I get what I need to get started here, I plan on updating with pictures after each step I get done


Here's the link to all the photos

http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x...ota%20project/

 

Dam, looks like you have your work cut out for you. I also have a 1995 runner, but with no rust at all. Good luck in doing it. If I was you, I would do it myself as well. I like doing stuff like that, but I'm glad it isn't on my rummer. The best.

PS, looking forward to before and after pics.

 

IMHO the $5000 quote was probably for new panels
The $600 was for a bondo slap on...

Paintmatching is an art.
Paint color code is on the door jamb.
Take that to a pro auto paint place and they can mix up the paint.
The paint they give you will match the original FACTORY paint.
Unfortunately the UV has changed the paint color to something else...
Getting it to match / blend is what pro paint shops do and why it costs $$

If the parts unbolts - its usually easier to get a new part (aka door shells)
Bumper IMHO is not worth it to repair - get an aftermarket bumper.

PROPER rust fix is eiter new panels or WELD IN new sheet metal.
Not exaclty a home job (given the nature of the questions you are asking)

Bondo slap on can look good post paint but will bubble through in 2-3 years (or earlier) and really doenst fix the problem - think of it as car "makeup"...

 

Like ewong said if the parts unbolt just get new ones or else new to you rust free ones lol...
don't even waste time on the bumper...
doors can be had pretty reasonably...
for the front window edge you may have to remove the whole window to do a proper job... you may want to consider having a pro do this [or at least the re-install part] that way if it leaks you can get it fixed on warrenty [maybe].
as long as ii is just surface cancer you should be able to get a good result on the a pillar and wheel arches... the front fenders can be had pretty cheaply also FWIW...

 

yeah the 5000 quote was for a complete repaint and new panels, when you're the best I guess you can weed out jobs that you don't want to do !

 

well i planned on welding in new panels

 

Best way to fix panels besides replacing them is to just cut the rust patch out and match it with some sheet metal formed to shape and welded in.. bumper, might as well get a new one or one off a junkyard truck, but it'll be either rusted or dinged.

 

Bzzzzzt

When you are the best - you want a SATISFIED CUSTOMER.

Welding in NEW OEM body panels is the BEST fix.
Its also $$$$

Its the only fix that a body shop will "warranty" against re-rusting.
(i.e. a Body shop that will in fact stand behind their work)

I checked with a top notch body shop here.

He we weleded patch panels ON HIS PERSONAL Toyota Pickup.
It rusted again in 2 years.
He WILL NOT do patch panels any more.

 

There is a difference between rust and rot. Looking at the pictures, it doesn't look bad at all. Especially since there isn't any carnage damage.I'd take the flap wheel to a spot on the fenders and take it down to bare metal. Try to get the back side as well. When doing metal repair, you can't be tentative or afraid. You either are committed to doing it, or not touching it at all. Hit a single fender with the flap wheen and take her down to clean metal. I'll bet you'll be surprised.

Check online at Eastwood Company. http://www.eastwoodco.com

They have some great restoration products that give you many more options beyond the POR-15 alternatives. Their rust encapsulator products and primers are excellent.

Everyone who works on their own vehicles should visit this site. After you do the prep work, take it back to the shops previously questioned and ask for quotes for prep and paint... NOT repair. You'll have already done that.

 

before starting I would take some of your interior apart and make sure you don't have any serious cancer that is coming from inside out. That happened on my 1st 4runner. outside clean as a whistle, inside ugly.

 

Thanks for all the great input everyone! I'm weighing my options now

 

rust is always an issue with older vehicles .. even in Cali. (I have seen It)



bottom line is , it depends on how long you want to keep it for ? , and what you want out of it ? (resale)



I deal with rust all day long .. It's what I do .
I offer repair panels
http://www.toyotafiberglass.com/IM000958.JPG
door skin replacements , and full paint ..


I'm at the 5G mark at least ...



so yes . I agree with the "BEST" shop quote .


.

 

The only way to deal with the rust issues on that it to replace the panels. That will get rid of it completely. For the stuff around the windshield you might as well smash it out and sandblast all that stuff away and smooth it out with some bondo when you get all of the rust gone from there. No matter what happens unless you replace everything bolt on you will need to do a bit of bondo work but just try to keep it to a minimum. I've got a big project starting here this summer on my new 92 pickup. I have to do cab corners and I don't think that they make them for our pickups so I've got to make them as I did for my 82. Make sure that when you get it down to bare metal you spray primer on it quickly to make sure rust doesn't start. Anyways good luck with the rust. I know how big of a job it can prove to be.

 

It seems like a real pain in the A$$ before you start because there are a lot of little spots to tackle, but you don't really have it that bad. Take a look at what I just went through with my '93 4Runner here. I don't have any after pictures yet, well... sort of I guess, but I don't have any final pictures because the truck is still up on jackstands in my garage... I am just finishing the rebuild of my rear diff and axles.

 

Well, I'm going to start grinding away and we'll see where we end up from there!

 

I've been tackling the rust on '87 4runner the last few days. It's been a much larger job than anticipated.

Prepare to find more rust than you think and is evident from the surface. I went to grind out the rust on the back wheel well and ended up taking most of the well out completely.

Started to patch with fiberglass last night. Pain in the ass but I think it will work pretty well and is a viable option vs. welding in new metal. It was my only choice since I don't weld. It will take a decent amount of more effort to finish the patch job, sand, apply some bondo for smoothing, more sanding and then paint. Ughh. Oh well that is what I get with a 20 year old vehicle that wasn't taken care of by the previous owner.

 

I may look into fiberglass too compressed, I'm not much of a welder if any

 

When I came to Texas my 4runner was starting to show the rust marks. I decided to find a donor from down here with a blown motor and transfered all my stuff over. The donor was clean and I only paid $900. for it. I got lucky.

BEFORE


AFTER

 

I wish I was had the time and knowledge to do something like that. I can think of all kinds of things I'd do such as the 5 speed swap!